Question about Kenmore 22942 Top Load Washer
I have a kenmore elite 10 year old top-load washing machine (model #: 110.20956992). occassionally, a small amount of water comes from underneath the front of the washer, plus just recently, it stopped spinning (but the agitator does occassionally work). large family so we do alot of laundry - is it worth fixing - if so, how? thx
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
THESE MACHINES ARE RELATIVELY EASY AND INEXPENSIVE TO FIX TO I WOULDN'T THINK ABOUT GETTING RID OF IT YET:
See the section for the basket and tub assembly's
I'd pull the cabinet in order to get to the hoses going to and from the pump first.
See the following:
If the hoses are fine, check the shaft from the motor to the pump and check inside the pump to make sure the inlet and outlet aren't blocked.
I'd also check the gaskets at the bottom of the tub.
If you're reasonably mechanically inclined, these are easy fixes.
If you have to get to the gaskets at the bottom of the tub, see the following for how to remove the agitators, pump, motor, transmission, spin tube and basket.
(It sounds a bit complicated but it's not really that difficult.)
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.
As an aside, see the following Whirlpool Service Manual for top load direct drive washers.
Depending on the problem (hoses or gasket) it's certainly less expensive than calling in a repair person.
NO SPIN / OCCASIONAL AGITATE:
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
See the Whirlpool Service Manual on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.
If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.
I'd check the coupler while you have the cabinet off when checking the hoses and pump anyway.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on May 30, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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