Question about KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS Side by Side Refrigerator
Yes the ice buildup is coz of a problem in the defrost cycle... and u wud be required to test all the three components.....
first we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrosttimer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It mayalso be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in thetemperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.
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Test the timer for continuity using a multitester.Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has fourterminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C".If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincideswith the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the whitewire.
Once you havelocated the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the otherprobe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester shoulddisplay a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicatescontinuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. Thethird pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locatethe timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Nowretest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals shouldindicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should givea reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showedcontinuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair thatread infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does notpass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.
* We have received two reports of cases in which only one pair of terminals shows continuity and when the timer is advanced, the same pair still shows continuity. For these isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct operation of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this case. This may indicate a specific model or models that use a different wiring configuration than discussed in this article. Also, note that this article applies to mechanical defrost timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.
now we ll see how we need to check the defrost heater.....
Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer.
The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver.
There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.
The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.
this is how u check the thermostat.....
A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel.
The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced.
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
Somehow, it sounds like you're getting condensation on the bottom of the hopper. I'm wondering if time timer control board isn't waiting a bit too long to cool the freezer, and there is a slight melting problem. Not sure. However, for the leaking problem, a tech on FixYa has the answer for the water leaking:
I tried searching the net for the hopper ice problem, to no avail. Still seems like a cycling issue, however.
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
The ice cube section comprises the ice cube maker, the hopper, and a tube connecting the hopper to the door. The hopper has an auger that pushes ice towards the front door. At the front of the ice cube hopper is a device that crushes ice, if you choose to have crushed ice. The icemaker will make ice until you turn it off, or until the hopper fills up. A clever metal wire is pushed up when the ice cube hopper is full.
Also check this wire.If this wire is not getting pushed up automatically as per the system then ice will start getting buildup.
Please check the valve from where the water is entering in from to make sure that it does not have an ice build up in it. If it does you will need to remove that valve because it is on a timed basis but if this is frozen the water will just trickle in and doesn't always shut off. The valve could be the fault of the concern even if there is not ice. This valve is what opens and closes to allow the water to enter into the ice-maker.
In some cases the Ice-maker itself needs replacement.
Check that ice is not stuck in the ice chute. The ice chute can build up ice flakes over time due to the use of crushed ice. The ice chute is located on the inside of the freezer door and is accessible by removing the ice storage bin. Use only a plastic utensil to remove ice from the ice chute. Do not use anything sharp to remove ice as this may damage the ice chute.Once large clumps or cubes are removed, use a warm, wet cloth to wipe the inside of the ice chute. After removing the ice build-up, dry the ice chute by wiping it with a clean, dry cloth to prevent additional ice formation.
Check that ice is not clumping or sticking together in the ice bin. If it is, shake the ice bin to separate the cubes. If the cubes do not separate, empty the ice bin and clean it. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.
Check that ice is not melted around the auger. The auger is the metal spiral object in the ice bin. If it is, dispose of the ice cubes and clean the ice bin. Do not try to remove the melted ice with a sharp object as this may damage the ice bin. Allow 24 hours for the ice bin to refill.
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Posted on Jul 07, 2010
It sounds to me like the dispenser door is not sealing properly. If this flapper door is not tight, warm moist air will be drawn to and condensate on the cold surface of the ice bin.
To check this, open the freezer door, take the ice bin out. Turn the kitchen lights off and have someone shine a flashlight up the chute in the freezer door while you are looking down from the inside of the door, if you see light then the ice door (part number 2180353) can be replaced. It has a built in heater in this door to help it seal better.
Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
Posted on May 30, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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