When i first got my system installed they connected the remote wire to a fuse box in the back of the trunk i know i can connect it to the head unit but the wire is too short and i would go out and buy one but all the audio stores are closed is there a way i can bypass it

The remote wire DOES need to be connected to the head unit. You can see if thats the problem simply by touching the remote wire to the power wire. The unit should come on. The head unit should either have a remote lead, or a power antenna lead, and thats what you need to turn the amp on and off. BE SURE your ground is solid, and its usually best to take that to the battery as well to prevent unwanted engine noise. Hope this helps!

The basic steps to set up a car amplifier are these: 1. Disconnect the car battery's negative terminal before doing ANY electrical work on your vehicle. Failing to do so can damage your equipment or cause injury to your person. 2. Determine where you are going to mount your amplifier. This can be in the trunk, on the back of a seat, under a seat, etc. Pick a place with good airflow, otherwise your amp may overheat while playing. 3. Run the ground wire from the mount location to a ground location. The ground location should be a location where you can securely connect the cable to the vehicle chassis, and the connection should be metal-to-metal, without any paint in between. 4. Run the speaker cables to the amp. This means any cables coming directly from subwoofers as well as RCA cables coming from the head unit. Don't forget the remote wire from the head unit. 5. Run the positive (live) power wire directly from the vehicle battery to the amp. You will most likely have to drill through the vehicle firewall in order to get the cable through. 6. Connect the ground wire to the ground location. 7. Connect the speaker wires and remote wire to the amp. Make sure these cables are connected on each end to the proper inputs. 8. Connect the ground wire to the amp. 9. Insert the fuse into the in-line fuse on the live power cable, within 2 feet (24 inches) of the positive terminal connection.If your cable didn't come with an in-line fuse, you will have to buy a fuse separately, strip the power cable, cut it, and insert the fuse in the specified location. 10. Connect the power wire to the amp first, and then to the battery. 11. Power up your system, and play some music!

You would require an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.

The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire.


The complete installation process is as follows

#1

Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.

#2

Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.

Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.

Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.

Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.

#3

Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.

If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.

Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.

#4

Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.

#5

Put the fuse in the fuse holder.

#6

Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.

#7

On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).

#8

In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.

#9

Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.

#10

Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.

#11

If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.

#12

Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.

#13

Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. You are all done!


Hope this helps

Thanks

Step 1 Understand the basics of all car stereo systems. A car stereo system consists of 4 main components and the wiring that connects them. These are the head unit, the main speakers, optional amplifiers and the subwoofers, which are also optional but generally considered a necessary part of any good system.
Step 2 Know that the core of any car stereo is the head unit, which is the cassette or CD player that goes in the dash. All the other components are connected to the head unit by at least one pair of wires.
Step 3 Know about car speakers. The main speakers are usually 2 in the front and 2 in the back, although with what are known as component speakers, each speaker is broken down into two speakers: one for the highs and one for the bass. Each speaker or speaker set (known as a channel) connects to the head unit via a pair of wires. Generally if you are installing a new head unit you want to install new speakers.
Step 4 Know about amplifiers. Amplifiers provide extra power to your speakers and/or extra channels of power for additional speakers. The most common use for an amplifier (amp) is to power subwoofers. The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire. This article assumes the use of a single amplifier connected to a pair of subwoofers. If you do not have these components simply ignore the steps specific to the amp, doing so will not affect the rest of your installation.
Step 5 Know about subwoofers. Subwoofers are part of any good stereo system. They provide the deep bass that small speakers cannot achieve. Subwoofers are connected to the amplifier which can usually be mounted right to the subwoofer box. If you do not have subwoofers you can simply ignore the steps specific to them.
Preparing for the installation
Step 1 Be properly prepared. This is extremely important since you do not want to realize you're missing something in the middle of the installation.
Step 2 Purchase the following: A car stereo wire harness which connects the existing wiring for your old head unit to your new one (this will be specific to BOTH the model and year of your car AND to the make of your new head unit); an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.
Step 3 Obtain a guide to removing the dash, doors panels (or whatever compartment the speakers are in), and floor molding of your car. You may be able to find a guide for this online. If not, you can get a repair manual for your car at most automotive stores and online).
Step 4 Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers to fit the job, pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, a utility knife, sand paper or a file, electrical tape, a 9-volt battery, and any other tools that the instructions for installing the head unit and your car guides specify.
Installation Process
Step 1 Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
Step 2 Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.

Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.

Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.

Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.
Step 3 Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.

If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.

Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.
Step 4 Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.
Step 5 Put the fuse in the fuse holder.
Step 6 Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.
Step 7 On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).
Step 8 In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.
Step 9 Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.
Step 10 Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.
Step 11 If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.
Step 12 Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.
Step 13
Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. That's all!

Good luck.

1) Understand the basics of all car stereo systems. A car stereo system consists of 4 main components and the wiring that connects them. These are the head unit, the main speakers, optional amplifiers and the subwoofers, which are also optional but generally considered a necessary part of any good system. 2) Know that the core of any car stereo is the head unit, which is the cassette or CD player that goes in the dash. All the other components are connected to the head unit by at least one pair of wires. 3) Know about car speakers. The main speakers are usually 2 in the front and 2 in the back, although with what are known as component speakers, each speaker is broken down into two speakers: one for the highs and one for the bass. Each speaker or speaker set (known as a channel) connects to the head unit via a pair of wires. Generally if you are installing a new head unit you want to install new speakers. 4) Know about amplifiers. Amplifiers provide extra power to your speakers and/or extra channels of power for additional speakers. The most common use for an amplifier (amp) is to power subwoofers. The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire. This article assumes the use of a single amplifier connected to a pair of subwoofers. If you do not have these components simply ignore the steps specific to the amp, doing so will not affect the rest of your installation. 5) Know about subwoofers. Subwoofers are part of any good stereo system. They provide the deep bass that small speakers cannot achieve. Subwoofers are connected to the amplifier which can usually be mounted right to the subwoofer box. If you do not have subwoofers you can simply ignore the steps specific to them. FOR more help click on this link directly http://www.ehow.com/how_5829_wire-car-stereo.html ------ This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Most car alarms and remote starters will only provide a low current negative output for trunk release which is not enough to power the solenoid directly. I am not familiar with that brand. Please check your installation manual. If that is the case you must wire a relay to control the solenoid on the trunk. On the relay there will be numbers: 30 and 85 will be battery power through at least a 10 amp fuse. 87 will be your 12 volt wire to the solenoid. 86 will be your trunk output from the alarm brain. 87a will not be used. Also make sure the solenoid is properly ground. DC

1. Batt + or B+ or Positive.
   This is the connection directly to your automobiles battery. It should be a fused connection rated to about 15% higher than the fuse installed in your amplifier.
2. Negative or '-' or Ground.
   This wire should be just as thick as the 'Batt + or B+ or Positive' wire. This wire can attach to any solid clean metal connation in the vehicle. Usually a trunk latch.
3. Remote or amp startup wire.
   This wire is a thin 12V wire that will come from the deck. It's a signal wire that tells the amplifier to turn on.
   
4. Inputs
   Low level inputs are in the form of RCA connectors and will require that your deck or head unit has low level or RCA outputs. High-level inputs are used for stereos that don't have low level or RCA outputs. They work by taking an audio signal directly from the vehicles speakers and then amplifying it as necessary.
5. Speaker connection.
   Match the + and - these with the appropriate connectors on the speaker box. Red means + and Black means -.
   I hope this helps.
   
   

Hello lyttle_matt1,

Connect a DC voltmeter between the "remote" (+) terminal and the "ground" (-) terminal on the amp. When you turn on your Pioneer, you should read 12-14V. If you get voltage for a second and then it goes away, either the incorrect wire from the head unit is connected, or the head unit remote turn-on is defective. If the voltage remains on the terminal and the amp immediately turns back off, it's possible that the remote turn-on is not supplying adequate current for the amp. To determine if that is the case, run a separate wire from a positive (+) accessory terminal (cigarette lighter or fuse box) to the amp remote terminal. If the amp then turns on and stays on, you'll need to wire a relay into the turn-on wire. The wiring for such a relay is shown here. Most any 12V SPST or SPDT relay from an auto parts store or Radio Shack will work OK.

find your remote wire. it would help to know the type of car and the kind colors of wires your using as your 3 main wires.
normally in most chevy and fords they are yellow 12 volt.
black as ground.
red sometimes even a tan as your remote start.
deff check your start

I would recommend using an 8 AWG minimum or preferably 4 AWG power and ground cable. Use as short a ground lead as possible and connect it directly to some chassis metal (avoid accidentally screwing into the gas tank if in trunk). Use a fuse holder with a 40 - 60 amp fuse under the hood within 18 inches of the battery. Your RCA cable coming from the back of the JVC radio should be run to your amp along with the remote turn on lead. This wire should connect to the JVC's amplifier turn on lead which should be a blue wire with a white stripe.