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Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
If you replaced the drums and the cartridges and still get white lines it means there is something obstructing the imager. I believe this printer has LED imagers, In the printing process areas that are exposed to the light are printed as black on the paper and areas that are not exposed are left white. I would look for some dirt or debris on the scanners or some LED are faulty. If it has a laser scanner there may be dirt on a mirror
You should carefully review the settings especially the Mode and Function settings (Func/Set button). The Exposure Compensation, White Balance, ISO and Image Quality settings may require adjustment. Have your manual open when you do this and work through it step by step. Try the camera after each change so that you will learn which setting was at fault.
jQuery('#jsArticleStep1 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/qo/52/change-image-size-paint-1.1-800X800.jpg');
Open Microsoft Paint. Paint is usually found under
"Start," "Programs" and "Accessories."
jQuery('#jsArticleStep2 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/qo/52/change-image-size-paint-1.2-800X800.jpg');
Click on the "Image" menu, and choose
"Attributes." This will open the "Attributes" box.
jQuery('#jsArticleStep3 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/qo/52/change-image-size-paint-1.3-800X800.jpg');
Choose which "Units" you would like to resize your
image in. The options are "Inches, "Centimeters" and
jQuery('#jsArticleStep4 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/qo/52/change-image-size-paint-1.4-800X800.jpg');
Enter the "Width" you would like the image to be.
jQuery('#jsArticleStep5 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/qo/52/change-image-size-paint-1.5-800X800.jpg');
Enter the "Height" you would like the image to be.
jQuery('#jsArticleStep6 span.image a:first').attr('href','http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/qo/52/change-image-size-paint-1.6-800X800.jpg');
Click "OK." Your image should now be the appropriate
Slow down your shooting. The "R11" indicates
that you can take 11 more images before the buffer is full and the
camera will stop functioning until the images are moved to the memory
card. Select a smaller file size. Nikon cameras allow you to select from
several sizes of JPEG as well as a RAW and a RAW + JPEG file. These
files vary in size. If you select a smaller file size, the buffer will
take longer to fill, allowing you to shoot longerTurn off long exposure noise reduction. This function causes the camera
to expose twice for every image, and this can fill up the buffer quickly
as those images are processed and written to the card.
Select a smaller file size. Nikon cameras allow you to select
from several sizes of JPEG as well as a RAW and a RAW + JPEG file.
These files vary in size. If you select a smaller file size, the buffer
will take longer to fill, allowing you to shoot longer.
Turn off long exposure noise reduction. This function causes
the camera to expose twice for every image, and this can fill up the
buffer quickly as those images are processed and written to the card.
These are two separate functions that give
control in-camera that normally is only available in-computer. The Multiple
Exposure system allows one to create a single image from up to 10 separate
exposures, while controlling the division of exposure needed for an accurate
final image. The Image Overlay function allows one to
create a composite image by combining two separate images in camera, and
varying the opacity of the two images. The final results are saved as a stand
alone image, and the original files are saved also. This could be used instead
of a neutral density filter, by shooting for the dark to mid tones in one
image, and the mid to high tones in the other, then combining the two images,
in-camera, for one properly exposed image with much a wider light range.
Hope this has helped you... Please rate the answer... Thanks..
If you're trying to do this without a computer, just printing an image directly from a camera or memory card in a printer with that function, enlarging is often available through the menu functions. The actual process would be explained in the user guide. (I'm not assuming you have the Kodak printer listed.)
You can also load the image into a computer and enlarge it. How would depend on what program you use to process the image. I use a program called IrfanView. It's meant mainly for image viewing but has a good selection of processing tools as well. It's very easy to resize images with this program. It's also free without any restrictions, nag screens or associated adware.
In general, just load your leaf image into whichever program you're using, then use the program's "help" screens to find its "resizing image" process.
There is no function to do this on the EOS 400D. Don't forget the camera is an SLR and still has to open and close a shutter to take a picture. The image is then converted using a CCD instead of exposed on film. I find with my 20D I just take loads of pictures and review them and then delete the ones that I don't want. This is the beauty of the digital age.