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The power is not coming,the output of the rectifier is perfect,the problem is around the voltage regulator area i think so,it has a D1548 power transistor,and the power capacitor has blotted a little.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

MeanGene
  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: RCA..PTV..P60924..CTC195M..NO START UP.

Check for R14125 being opened.

Posted on Oct 13, 2007

scott201201
  • 170 Answers

SOURCE: television power led blinking

are you sure that you are checking this correctly?
What is the location number for this regulator?
If its the main regulator, what are you using for ground on your meter? Also, isn't the part number marked on the regulator?

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: no output from power supply

Hi,

I am assuming that you are very familiar with electronic circuitry and components, use of a DVM and a soldering iron. In the absence of a schematic diagram, and since you have perform initial voltage checks, perhaps you can wing it. Your "brick" will have to follow the basic design of an SMPS (switch mode power supply). Simply stated,an SMPS is an AC to DC to high freq AC then to lo V DC converter. Per your post, you have checked that there is DC (B+) from the AC mains, then what is needed is to check if there is oscillation to produce the high freq AC. Often design calls for an optical coupler, a small rectangular looking component with four pins, two at each end. This is nothing more than a LED and a Light Dependent transistor. Its function is to switch/trigger on the oscillation (and therefore start the SMPS producing the lo B+s).

Again, since there is no readily available schematic diagram, might I suggest that you post back the part numbers of the ICs and transistors. What we can do is pull out their spec/data sheets and/or application diagrams. Such would give us a general idea of the working voltages at what pins and what each component is supposed to do. Example, let us say your power supply uses a 817A/0635 opti coupler and/or an SG5841DZ controller IC, then we can search for them as initially described.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

  • 83 Answers

SOURCE: Honda EMS 4500 Generator - High Voltage Problem

As far as I can tell on the wiring diagram for this generator there is no voltage regulator unless it's incorporated with the auto throttle unit.
To lower the voltage you need to lower the speed of the generator engine. To do this there should be a screw on top of the engine under the tank when your facing the recoil. This screw presses on a arm that controls your governor. Turning it in (righty tighty) will increase rpms, turning it out will lower them. You should see the voltage change on the voltmeter.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: Start up problem.

I suggest you look at the Horizontal output transistor, when it goes short the supply is in protection mode, it is pointless reading voltages at this stage, check the transistor located close to the Horizontal output (Flyback) transformer and normally mounted on a large heatsink. Check the caps in the primary power supply stage....hope that helps..Phil

Posted on May 19, 2009

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I need a rectifier or avr for generac 3500 xl genarator


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  • Jun 28, 2016 | Generac Electrical Supplies

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    The picture wont come on, power is on but screen is black


    this a lack of RASTER, TEST AND measure a) , fuse, c. breaker, transformer, filter, diode, rectifier, IC voltage regulator +horizonta output transistor, HV rectifier, and Flyback HV.
    God bless you

    Oct 11, 2012 | Mitsubishi WS-73907 TV

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    MY YAMAHA SR 150 MODEL 2002 , THE BATTERY IS NOT CHARGING EVERY TIME I BUY NEW BATTERY IN FEW DAYS IT WILL DISCHARGE OR DRAIN THE BATTERY POWER


    there is a regulator rectifier assembly that rectifies the ac coming from the stator and then regulates the voltage to both charge the battery and run accessories and lights....if you can obtain a voltmeter, try starting the bike and measure the voltage on the battery..it should be about 14V DC with the bike running...if not then switch the meter to AC and check the leads coming from the stator(they are the leads that come out from under the clutch cover)...the measured voltage from the stator should be around 30v AC and will go higher when you rev the engine....if this voltage is not present then the stator is defective...if it is then the rectifier/regulator is probably bad...also, make sure that all the fuses are good

    Jun 11, 2011 | Yamaha SR 125 Motorcycles

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    I have a 96 Honda CBR900RR and I have redone almost everything on it. I hooked the engine back up and the battery won't stay charged. It will stay charged until everything is running then it cuts off and...


    the stator produces ac power which is rectified by the rectifier pack to dc power which is what the electrics uses
    the voltage regulator controls the voltage to 14.5-14.8 volts dc
    the voltage regulator by controlling the voltage also controls the maximum out put from the stator or the current being produced to charge the battery and run the lights and what ever else you have connected
    hot stator and rectifier indicates uncontrolled out put so take it to an accredited bike electrician and have it fixed properly
    have the battery load tested as uncontrolled output will boil a battery and ruin it

    Apr 30, 2017 | 1995 Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade

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    Buell blast charging problem


    If there is no voltage to the regulator then your stator (part of the alternator inside the primary case) is bad. If you have 124vac going into the regulator and nothing coming out then the regulator is bad. It should have around 14.5 VDC output.

    Jul 09, 2010 | 2002 Buell Blast

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    Please Help! I THINK I have a bad power supply (a bestec atx-300-12eb3 rev s2 from a Sony Vaio VGC-RB30). Power will no longer come on at all, however I do have a blinking green light on the back of the...


    ok first you disconnect the power supply from motherboard then measure the output voltage if it is ok then there is two wires green and black at o/p of power supply short green and black and see fan is rotating or not if rotating then power supply is ok if not then open the power supply check ac voltage in the pcb if present then check dc voltage after bridge rectifier and ckeck part by part

    Feb 23, 2010 | E-Machines Bestec ATX-300-12E Rev. D 300w...

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    Battery went flat even after riding for hours. showing 12.7 volts. When ran engine with revs it measured 12 .22. Think it must be rectifier. What should be output with engine running on 2001 softail duce


    Proper battery charging will show ~13.5 to 14.5 volts at the battery terminals. Check for continuity through the alternator windings, check each diode in the rectifier stack and look for a voltage regulator which may be defective.

    Oct 23, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FXSTD Softail Deuce

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    Marantz PM66SE AMP: The fuse in the board is burned after a few seconds when the power is on. COuld you please help me to diagonose the issue? Thanks a lot!


    You have an overload in the power supply or audio output stages. Look around sometimes a part may be burnt, have a hole in it etc... In the power supply it could be a diode, the large Elec Caps, Bridge Rectifier, Voltage Regulator. In the Audio Output, one or more large transistors, on the heatsink, or an IC if it uses one.

    Oct 12, 2009 | Audio Players & Recorders

    1 Answer

    Suzuki SE4000SED generator with no output


    There was a day and time when generators were simple. There were no capacitors, regulators to control/adjust power to magnet or ground fault outlets. Winding getting hot indicates short, however could be bad capacitors. Rectifiers and capacitors must be removed from circuit to test properly. Here is a simple test that I use to find fault area. I use a small power supply (16v AC 1 amp like doorbell transformer) into the 110v outlet of generator. This should energize the armature magnet and actually produce voltage at commutator with brushes pulled off. You can slowly pull the starter rope to move the armature into a different positon the voltage will vary. If the ac windings are shorted there will be very little or no magnet. There is a seperate 110 v circuit at the 220v outlet to test (there are two 110v windings that make up the 220v outlet, one is also used for the 110v outlet). There is another winding that products voltage for the regulator that powers the magnet thru the brushes but I think that circuit is porbably working because of the heat in the windings. You might even have 110v power at the 220v outlet. As our parents told us over and over, be careful when working with electricity. Enjoy

    Dec 06, 2008 | Electrical Supplies

    1 Answer

    Overcharging battery!?


    If it goes over 17 then there is definitely a regulator fault, regardless of what the stator is doing. The very purpose of the regulator (it 'regulates' the voltage within limits) is to NOT allow the output dc voltage to climb when the stator output rises (normal) with increased engine rpm. In other words - by nature of way it works normally, the stator AC output Voltage will rise as the engine rpm increases - it will continue to rise all the way to peak engine rpm. The Rectifier/ regulator with its double-barrel name performs two functions: the first - rectifier - converts the AC output of the Stator to DC volts - if 'UN-regulated' the DC volts would also climb proportionally to engine rpm. But that is where the second function of the Rectifier/Regulator - the Regulator - comes in. The Regulator's job is to stop the voltage rising over a certain threshold even if the stator is trying to drive it higher. It does this by 'shunting' current to ground (short circuit effectively) in a series of pulses; this controlled operation is called regulation. The limit is going to be 15V absolute max and more typically 14.5 or so. If the output rises about this value then it absolutely is NOT regulating. Failures of the regulator where they simply don't regulate and allow full voltage to pass are rare (but not impossible) - much more likely to be short or open circuit, neither or which would give the symptom you have. It still sounds almost like you maybe wired it incorrectly? The stator is inside the left crancase cover - whether or not it has its own problems, have nothing to do with the lack of regulation causing battery volts to go to 17V.

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