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Canon fd 50mm f1.8

I recently purchase a lens from ebay and as described it doest not stop down to smaller aperture. Pls. help hoe to fix it. T I A

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At which aperture is it stuck? Have you tried adjusting directly from the aperture ring on the lens?

Posted on Apr 08, 2008


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My canon fd 50mm 1.8 lens will only focus close up...I can't bring anything further than 6 or 8 inches away into focus

Check to see what focus mode you have selected. If it is on manual focus MF then use the narrow ring at the very end of the lens to make adjustments.

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What's the aperture in a 3G mobile lens?

The aperture of a lens system is the opening between the actual lens elements, typically made of glass or plastic, and the camera's digital sensor that translates the light into image data. Aperture openings are referred to in terms of stops or f-stops that equate to the ratio of the lens focal length to the diameter of the opening. A lens system with a focal length of 50mm and an aperture opening that is 25mm in diameter would equate to an f-stop of 2, and would be known as a 50mm f2 lens. Some lenses have variable apertures that can be set to one of multiple f-stop values. Reducing the aperture size decreases the amount of light that makes it to the sensor as well as increases the amount of depth of field that the lens will provide.

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Aperture lever stuck to wide open

On a film camera, the internel electronics determine the shutter speed and aperture. The camera computer figures out a higher shutter speed against the aperture speed. You have a lever on your lens that, when mounted on the camera, will keep the aperture open until you fire. That allows viewing in the brightest light. Then that aperture arm is allowed to close to what the exposure setting the camera determines when you click the shutter. You should be able to take off the lens and easily move the aperture arm and have it snap closed. If it takes a few seconds to close.. then the lens has oil on the aperture blades or the grease inside the lens is bad. These days, unless is it a very expensive lens it's replacement time. Canon lenses will fit any Canon (except Fd) film or digital camera.

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Item: Canon EF-S 17-85mm 1:4-5.6 IS USM Camera: Canon 20D Problem: At a focal length of below 35mm with the aperture set smaller than f4.0 in any programme mode an Err 99 appears in the view finder,and...

Check this article which will lead you through diagnosing the problem and a possible fix.

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I recently purchased a bushnell 135mm f 2.8 camera lens. ser #7000xx, marked as automatic. how may i find out what camera mount this lens is?

The Canon TL QL 35mm circa mid-60s
See one here:

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I seem to be unable to change the aperture, the marker points to A on the aperture scale , is this normal the ser no is :228700 Ken

Press down the small button to the right on the green A and twist the f stop ring. This button locks the lens on A

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If you're using the kit lens (17-85mm f/4-5.6), the maximum aperture achieveable when fully zoomed out (wide) is f/4 and when fully zoomed in, f/5.6 (that's what the f/4-5.6 stands for). The minimum aperture on this lens is not a problem since you're only making it smaller. i.e., f/22.

Try zooming back and turning the Aperture adjustment dial. You should be able to get f/4.

If you need bigger aperture to get a nice bokeh or to take portraits where the background is blurred while the subject in focus (aka shallow Depth of Field), try lens that are f/3.5 or f/2.8 max. The Canon 50mm f/1.8 is quite affordable (around US$100-120).

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Manual Canon 50mm FD lense will not focus!?

In that case the linkage between the movable parts of the lens group and the focussing ring has failed.

What follows applies to most lenses; I have a Canon 50mm FD to hand but as it works perfectly I've not needed to dismantle it so far but have repaired many others.

When you turn the focus ring there are usually two pegs which engage into helical slots cut into the focussing ring, these are hidden within the lens and you won't see them unless the lens is dismantled. The pegs are usually rounded to make the passage along the helical slot even smoother and each one is fixed to the inner lens barrel by a screw. On older lenses, the grease inside can dry out a bit, especially if the lens remains unused, when this happens the pegs may either shear off or simply become unscrewed and drop off. The gummy grease may hold them so you won't always hear a rattling part inside.

To fix it, you carefully dismantle the lens to the minimum extent you can get away with. You'll need good light, patience and a set of good quality crosshead precision screwdrivers. Normally you start with the screws on the mounting flange and watch out for small springs and detent balls which tend to escape to freedom never to be seen again. Some of the screws are usually hidden beneath the rubber grip on the focussing ring, and you remove this to check by carefully lifting an edge and then rolling it back over itself. It may need re-gluing afterwards. Clean out dried grease as you go and apply a small amount of thick grease to replace it on reassembly: less is far better than too much! Some of the screws may need thread lock applied to them when they go back in, but you're better off leaving this as your first time lens repair usually has to come apart again due to an error in reassembly.

Be prepared to ruin this lens as it's your first lens repair. The good news is that auction websites have plenty of other cheaply and in full working order, just make sure to ask if the iris (aperture) works smoothly and snappily and that the lens does not have the dreaded lens fungus on the glass elements (a patchy white haze). You can also usually get these lenses for free on Yahoo FreeCycle and a camera body and other goodies normally come as part of the offer. FreeCycle is how I've collected various Nikons, Canons and Pentax SLRs and lenses over the last year to add to my existing Olympus gear.

I hope that I've helped you, if so please return the favour by rating my answer.

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You have a case of AE(auto exposure) Unit faulty or getting bad. It suppose to register as it move within the AE unit according to the exposure calculation but somehow it is broken. Technician usualy replace the AE unit and takes care of the problem. It can also be rebuilt if new parts are not available. This requires complete disassembly and mirror box removal. The average cost of repair probably runs around $100. Yes, "A" mode is correct for most of the shots and it was a state of art electronic system and more computerized than you think. It has 3 IC chips in there for precessing and 1 chip for the exposure. All works together for good. -James

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Cleaning inside Canon 50mm /f1,8 II


you can have a look here:
and here:



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