Alternator not charging the gage saying not charging but charging 9 volts had alternator tested its charging 14-15 voltes its got a new battery not charging good enough

Is the charge indicator on ? You say you checked connections ? But did you test with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter , for battery voltage at the heavy gage wire on the back ? An at the wires in the connector on alternator ? Fuse's # 7 & 8 dash fuse box ? Fusible links E , C or B ?

batteries have no guarantee from the dealer
indicates a failed cell
have a load test done and if bad get a new battery

Checking for B+ volatge at the heavy gage wire on the back of the alternator an the smaller gage red wire in the connector pin #3 . Without B+ voltage at those wire's it won't work . The other two wire's in the connector come from the PCM - engine computer . Computer controlled charging system .
Ford Smart Charge System Alternator Not Charging
Ford PCM controlled alternator testing

11 1/2 to 12 1/2 is not charging . That's less then battery state of charge , Battery stat of charge should be 12.6 volts , when charging with a volt meter you should see 13.1 to 14.1 volt at the battery posts . Is there a battery symbol lit on your instrument cluster ? Is there battery B+ voltage at the wires hooked to the alternator How to Test an Alternator

Several things need to be checked before an accurate diagnosis can be made, however in general it is most likely your alternator going out OR a bad connection in your alternator/charging circuit wiring.

It's also important to test/verify that you have a good fully charged battery (with no dead cells) before any tests of the charging system. An alternator needs ample battery power into it before it can produce good charging voltage and amps out of it and back into the battery.

If you test the voltage directly out of the alternator's output post/connector (with the output wire disconnected), you will be reading direct alternator voltage output, which should be approx 13.5 to 14 volts, steady. If the voltage is at ~14 volts, then suddenly cycles down to 9 volts (or anything less than 12 volts), then you have a defective alternator.
If the alternator, while isolated, tests out at a constant 13.5 to 14 volts, then the problem is most likely a bad wire or connection in the charging circuit wiring.

There is also the possibility of the battery (how old is it?) shorting out internally, causing the voltage fluctuation. That's why I previously said you need to verify each battery cell is fully charged and good. You can usually test this with a battery hydrometer (if it's not a "sealed" maintenance free battery).

check the battery with a meter on volts. on a good charge it should be around 12.05v. run engine and test battery again should say around 13-14 volts. if you get 7-8-9 volts then the alternator is not working.. and the alternator is fitted to the fan belt has 2 bolts holding it in place, take the belt off. and remove its bolts and unplug the wire plug and un bolt the thick wire off the copper nut. replace with new or one known to be working.

14 volts is close (14.5-14.8 volts is required
and 9 when shut down indicates a bad battery
have it load tested and then have the alternator tested for rectifier pack operation
there should be 14.5 volts DC at the battery when running or it is not charging the battery
if you have 14 volts AC replace the alternator with a serviceable unit

Your battery is definitely low. First clean the terminals on the battery and the inside of the terminal rings on the wires. If you have a slow charger put it on that overnight and see if it holds a charge. If it still keeps depleting or doesn't charge overnight then either your battery or your alternator are done....possibly both. So take the battery to have it load tested. Most places that sell them can test them. If the battery is done replace it then test the battery with a volt meter. If the old battery is still good put it back in the vehicle and test the voltage with a volt meter. With the engine off the voltage should read 12 volts (once its fully charged or if its new) with the engine running it should read around 14 volts. If it is way higher than that or it doesn't go up at all your alternator requires replacing. Alternators are fairly easy to replace but if you don't feel comfortable with that take it in to a mechanic.

Hello,
When you say battery voltage how are you testing it? Are you looking at a gauge on the dash? Or are you physically testing it with a multi meter? If the truck is dying and you recently replaced the alternator and battery I would first suggest you to check all them connections again real good. Snug them all up. Check for corrosion and clean as needed. Did you replace the battery and alternator with new/re-manufactured battery and alternator? The alternator needs to put out at least 13.6 volts to charge your 12 volt battery or the battery will not maintain a charge. However the alternator runs the vehicle once it is started. The battery is used only to start the car and then the alternator runs it. So if your vehicle starts and runs and then dies you may have a bad alternator. Check your connections first and then test the alternator with a multi meter. Anything less than 13.6 volt will not suffice. 14+ volts would be the hopeful output of a good alternator.
regards, Tony

Has timeing been checked and how does vehicle run