Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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I have a model #LAT9206AAE Maytag washer that's 13 years old. It went through the entire cycle yesterday with no problem. When I pulled the knob for the next load ... nothing. We verified that the electrical outlet works and that the hoses are not clogged. Doing some research online, I see that it may possibly be a defective lid switch or water inlet valve. We're stumped ... any suggestions? Thank you! Karen Hurley

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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If you have already checked that the power is getting to the machine then you are right that it is the lid switch that needs to be replaced. It cannot be the water inlet valve as the machine will not even start and the lights wont even work. Usually if the lid switch is defective washer will not function at all, it is located inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame and you might have to raise/open the top/front of the washer to get to the switch. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on May 29, 2010

  • 14 more comments 
  • karenhurley May 31, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    Thank you so much for confirming what we suspected. My husband opened up the washer and found a blown fuse near the lid switch assemby. He replaced the fuse, plugged in the washer, pulled the knob, and it instantly blew again. He repeated it twice again, with the same result. He inspected leads and didn't see any charring or any indication of shorting (he's not an electrician, though). What would be causing the fuse to blow?



    The only thing I did different in the wash preceding the power failure was to use 1/2 cup of bleach (put directly into the water). I usually don't use bleach, but I have used it in the past in this machine, without incident. I can't imagine that the bleach caused this, but I wanted to mention it, just in case.



    Any suggestions?



    Thanks!

    Karen

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 31, 2010

    Hi Karen,




    Thanks for your reply. It is the lid switch as stated earlier that needs to be replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.

    Thanks
    Rylee

  • karenhurley May 31, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    Thank you. One more question ... there are two parts that say "lid switch", and we're not sure which one to order.



    1) #5 ... Lid check switch



    2) #15 ... Dryer door & washer lid switch kit



    Can you clarify?



    Thank you,

    Karen

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 31, 2010

    Thanks for your reply Karen, it is part#15 that should be replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

  • karenhurley May 31, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    Thanks again for your answer. At the risk of being a major pain, my husband wants me to ask you one final question.



    A friend of ours said we could connect the two leads going into that faulty switch to temporarily bypass the switch until the new part arrives (I'm already terribly backed up with the laundry).



    If you think that would cause a further problem, he won't do it. But if there's no danger of further damage, we'd like to get the washer working again ASAP. Again, this is a temporary measure until the new switch arrives.



    What say you?



    Thanks again,

    Karen



  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 31, 2010

    Thats absolutely fine, you can do that to make the washer work and you can always post back if you have any more questions. Thats really fine...

  • karenhurley May 31, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    The saga continues (and I thought this was going to be easy) ...



    My husband connected the leads, put a new fuse in, plugged in the machine, and pulled the knob.

    He heard a hum (from the water pump?). Then he realized he has forgotten to open the water valves, pushed in the knob, and opened the valves. He pulled the knob, and the fuse blew once again.



    He replaced the fuse, pulled the knob, and blew the fuse again.



    He's starting to think it has something to do with the knob.



    What do you think?



    Thanks,

    Karen

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 31, 2010

    Well Karen I thought
    it’ll work with the way that you suggested but as it’s not then
    , this usually is because
    the main lid switch contacts have "tacked" closed at one time and the
    monitor switch (smaller switch) will blow the fuse so the washer cannot work
    with the lid open. This is a built in safety feature and trust me its nothing
    to do with the knob. Normally the washer will not fill when the fuse has blown.
    Many times if the fuse is just replaced on its own, it will blow again. The lid
    switch
    should be replaced all
    together....a kit (part#15) with all the switches can eliminate future problems.
    Please do accept the solution if
    the issue is resolved or else post a comment for further assistance.








    Thanks


    Rylee

  • karenhurley May 31, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    Thank you so much for your help. We're ordering the switch right now.



    I'll post the results after we've installed it.



    We really do appreciate all your help. This is the first time we've used your service, and we would definitely use it again (and tell our friends about it).



    Thank you!

    Karen

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 31, 2010

    Thanks Karen, Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

  • karenhurley May 31, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    Sorry, another stumbling block ...



    When I looked more closely at the #15 part, it has 3 leads, whereas the part we have has only 2. I've searched the parts site, and when I put in the part number we have, it says it's been discontinued.



    Can we use a 3-lead part for the 2-lead part we have?



    Also, the #15 part I originally referred to is different than the #15 part you linked me to. Just want to make sure we're talking about the same part. The one I was referring to is the second (black) one below, while the link you gave me was the first (white) one below.









    15

    PS2003435
    SUB 12001908 (Lid Switch Assembly) (Series 15)
    Help with series numbers





    Compare At:
    $27.74


    Your Price:
    $23.12

    You Save:
    $4.62

    In Stock - Ships Tuesday


    15

    PS334185
    Lid Switch (Dryer Door and Washer Lid Switch Kit) (Series 10)
    Help with series numbers





    Compare At:
    $17.42

    Your Price:
    $14.52

    You Save:
    $2.90



    The part my husband bypassed was the black one.



    So, which one is the one we need, and if it's the black one (with 3 leads), can we use that to replace our 2-lead part?



    Thanks again,

    Karen Your Price: $23.12 You Save: $4.62 In Stock - Ships Tuesday
    15 PS334185
    Lid Switch (Dryer Door and Washer Lid Switch Kit) (Series 10)
    Help with series numbers
    Compare At: $17.42 Your Price: $14.52 You Save: $2.90

    The part my husband bypassed was the black one.

    So, which one is the one we need, and if it's the black one (with 3 leads), can we use that to replace our 2-lead part?

    Thanks again,
    Karen

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 31, 2010

    well yes it can be replaced, you can also call their toll free no and check with them.

  • karenhurley Jun 02, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    We received the replacement lid switch today, hooked it up, and there's still a problem. Hopefully this will be further clues for you.



    We're now able to fill the washer with water (which was not possible with the old switch). However, once it's filled, two things happen ...



    1) It stops and doesn't engage the wash cycle

    2) Every time we lift the lid, the fuse blows



    My husband has hooked up the wires as follows:



    - The right side has one terminal (the common), which has 2 attached black wires connected to it



    - The left side has two terminals (original switch had only 1, and it said "normally open") ... he's connected the 2 attached red wires to the "normally open" terminal (the other one says "normally closed")



    He tried connecting the red wires to the "normally closed" terminal, and the fuse immediately blew (when he pulled the knob out). While attached to the "normally open" terminal, the water fills (with the lid closed), and the fuse only blows when the lid is opened.



    Has he hooked it up wrong, or do we have another defective part?



    Thank you!

    Karen



  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jun 02, 2010

    Thanks for your reply Karen, please read this so that you know whats going on with your washer. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

  • karenhurley Jun 02, 2010

    Hi Rylee,



    My husband said the lid switch is clicking on and off, and seems to be working correctly. Regarding the link you sent me to, the terminals shouldn't be tacked, since it's a brand new switch. Reading further down, he adjusted the original assembly, and nothing changed. He now thinks the lid check switch (#5) might be the problem.



    We purchased the lid switch kit, not the assembly (which apparently also contains the lid check switch). I had asked you initially if you thought it might be the lid check switch, and you directed me to the lid switch kit. We therefore ruled out the lid check switch, and didn't think we needed the assembly.



    Anyway, my husband is ready to throw in the towel. Even if we were to buy the assembly, he's not an electrician and can't see from the diagram how the assembly is hooked up. He wants to call in a repairman at this point.



    Unless you can tell us something further (based on my first paragraph above), I think we're done.



    Thanks again,

    Karen

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Jun 02, 2010

    Regarding the parts, part#15 includes part#5...it is a complete kit. Have already advised you about the issue and what needs to be done about that Karen.

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