Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Slow drip near back of lid

There is a drip (about 1 drop each 3 seconds) just under the lid near the rear of the tub. It seems to be coming from some white plastic cylindrical fitting about 5 inches long. The model is GWL10. Is this something that can be repaired by a somewhat handy user?

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  • luisa_sgro May 30, 2010

    this problem means that one of the water valves is faulty. to find out which one 1st turn off the cold tap and leave it for about 1 hr. then check to see if the leak has stopped. if it has stopped it is your cold water valve. if it hasn't stopped then turn off the hot tap and leave for 1 hr then check for leaks. on one of these procedures the leak will stop, unless your have a faulty tap washer. but 1st try the procedures and see how you go.also does your machine have an EFFICIENCY button? please reply for futher help.

  • chuckbrad May 30, 2010

    It is the hot water that leaks. There is no efficiency button that I can see.

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  • 159 Answers

Hi there.this may be water dripping from the injector tube where the water actually enters the bowl.It is normal to drip for a short while after the machine has just been used but if it is a constant drip then you probably have a faulty inlet valve.Try this,turn off one of the taps & see if dripping stops.if not,turn off tha other tap & see if it stops.this will tell you which of the valves are leaking.You could just turn the taps off after use,that would save having to replace it.Hope that helped you.if not then give more detail if possible please.cheers!

Posted on May 31, 2010

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1 Answer

Top drawer is hanging up on something


The only way to fix this is get the drawer out by

1 Open the drawer fully.
2 Depress the right-hand tub clip and push it back about 30mm (1
inch). Repeat for the left-hand side.
3 The tub may now be lifted up off the drawer runners.
4 Slide both runners back into the product.
5 Refit in reverse manner.

That way you can get access to the top seal - which is called the lid.

You will have to see how much of the lid is still left behind hanging on the top.

To remove lid
1 Remove tub assembly as per earlier instructions
2 On the right-hand side of the lid release the two tabs that clip the lid
to the yoke. Repeat for the left-hand side.
3 The lid is now free to slide out of the chassis.
4 Refit in the reverse manner taking care that the lid is fitted the
correct way around. The front is indicated on the top of the lid.

If the whole lid is intact then it may be a matter of fitting it back. Othwerwise you will get one from fisher and paykel parts

To fit the lid back you will have to check if the actuator yokes are not broken. In which case you will have to take these out and replace with the new one. (comes as part of lid kit if you buy it).

Remove Yoke
1 Remove the lid as per instructions above.
2 Release the lid actuator connecting arm from the bottom of the yoke
by squeezing the two tabs towards each other.
3 Slide the front of the yoke downwards at an angle until it moves out
of the track in the rear of the trim, and is clear of the chassis flange.
4 Refit in the reverse manner taking care that the yoke is the correct
way around.

When putting back you will need to align the lid actuator motors on both sides correctly so that the yoke moves the same distance when activated. Otherwise the lid will have a scew.

Hope all this helps. If unsure you will need to contact a technician.

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1 Answer

The wash tub is hanging down on one side


undo the 2 screws under the rubber plugs under the lid near the front, unclip the top at the rear before lifting it or it will break. Then lift up, there are 4 suspension rods, 1 is either come off or broken. If broken you may be able patch it up but I would buy new one.

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1 Answer

I have a Model GSL9365EQ2. It has a slow drip


Take the drain hose out of the regular drain and lower it to gravity drain into a bucket, pan, or floor drain if available. Turning the water off should not have prevented the machine from starting. The drip is likely coming from a leaking solenoid water valve at the rear of the machine where the hoses connect. Replace the valve assembly after removing the cabinet top and maybe the cabinet back panel. Make sure to remove the power if you are going to do the work. Hope this helps!

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Water drips into tub of machine when machine is off. The only way to get the water to stop is to shut off the water supply line to the washer. The drip is slow and seems to be coming from near the...


Water valve letting by, could be diaphragm split or filter
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I have a top load whirlpool and there is water on the floor with soap suds in it. I'm thinking hose or connection problem- I hope. But I need the simplest way to get the back off to check the connections....


The back does not come off on these washers. You have to remove the washer cabinet to expose the internal components. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

The pump and drain hoses connections are located in the FRONT of the washer directly under the wash tub.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some oither things to consider:


1. You may have had a drain line back up and spill over from the standpipe at the wall. Try allowing the washer to drain and listen at the standpipe. If you can hear the water backing up (the sound of te water will become higher pitched) you may consider having your drain line checked by a plumber.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. With the washer case removed, inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine expoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome onthe lower gith hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple if you follow the instructions step-by-step. NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. If the leak were coming from the rear of the washer, it wouldn't have suds in it. This is where the water inlet vlave and dispenser hoses are located. Water enterst this area PRIOR to the wash tub. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

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My Whirlpool ultimate care is leaking under,I did check the hoses and they are okey. What could be the problem?.


Can you describe where the leak may becoming from? For example, near the front, from under the washer, or near the back.

If you notice a pool of water coming from under the washer near the FRONT, this is commonly caused by a leaking water pump. Since these pumps are sealed units and are considered non-serviceable, it must be replaced. They cannot be resealed or "fixed".

If the leak appears to be leaking from under the washer near the CENTER of the tub, either the tub seal is leaking or the air dome hose may have come loose. If the tub seal is leaking, it also must be replaced. If the air dome hose comes loose, however, the washer will never fill up all the way and will continuously run. This will cause a flood rather than a drip.

If the leak is coming from the REAR of the washer, this can be caused by cracked fill hoses, loose fill hose connections, a leaking drain hose, or a fill valve hose leaking.

Since you said you checked your hoses, I suspect a water pump, or something loose. Can you please confirm your symptoms and let me know?

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Washer leaks under tub


Can you see exactly where the water is coming from? When the machine is spinning and you lift the lid does it stop in less than four seconds? Does the water come from the side of the tub near an area where a tube attaches? Is there water staining down the side of the tub and an area near the top shows leaking? Is there rust and oil stains at the base of the gear case? Please blog back, SearsTechToo.

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My whirlpool washer (Ultimate care II) stopped in mid cycle, basket full of water and clothes. There is electricity to the plug, and the washer will add more water, but just not finish the cycle. I...


If the washer fills, but won't spin or drain, you may have a defective lid switch. This is a very common problem and a very common symptom.

Let me guess: The washer fills, agitates, but when it gets to the spin cycle it just stops. On some models the washer will fill and then shut off. Am I explaining your symptoms correctly?

If so, this what you need to do:

Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" noise. The contacts on the switch should close when the lid is shut, allowing the washer timer to run. This is a designed safety feature that prevents the washer from agitating or spinning with the lid open (don't need to lose any fingers). If you don't hear the switch, it may have come loose, or has broken.
Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the tub rim. There will be a slot where the lid strike pushes down on the lid switch. Make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece) is still present on the lid. This can prevent the washer from working as well and make it seem like a huge problem.
On some models the lid switch is located near the left-hand lid hinge under the washer casing. A small rod on the lid hinge activates the switch contacts.

If you determine the need to replace the switch, follow these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Good Luck.

Feb 27, 2008 | Washing Machines

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