Question about Lutron Dvsc-603p Diva 3-way 600w Dvsc603p Dimmer

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3 way dimmer turns on and off, but does not dim

I have power (black wire) coming into dimmer switch and connected to black wire on dimmer. White wire bypasses to lights. Two red wires on dimmer go out to traveler terminals on second 3 way switch and the black comes out of second switch to lights. The three way circuit turns lights on and off, but it won't dim. Any suggestions?

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All your wiring looks good. Many times dimmer just have problems and are faulty. You should note that the dimmer can only handle 600 watts. If you have that or more on it, than you have probably fried the dimming mechanism. In either case the dimming mechanism is not working properly and you will have to take it back and get the same dimmer or a different one. Tell the store they sold you a faulty dimmer and you can get a replacement at no cost.

Posted on May 29, 2010

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Leviton IPI06-1LM 3 way dimmer switch- not dimming


Hi Sara,

Please read this entirely before attempting.

I am an electrician and would like to help you with this problem. You have provided great detail of your situation, yet I am confused about the statement describing how you wired it:

"-Red Wire (used in 3-way installation-tagged) from switch to the red wire in wall."

Before checking wiring, be sure to shut off the power to the circuit.

The "tagged" wire should be the one you identified with tape (when you removed the original) that was connected to the dark colored (called a "shunt" or "common terminal") screw of the switch.

In a 3 way installation, both red wires from the dimmer switch are used. In a single pole installation, only the UNinsulated red wire is used and the insulated wire is not.

To which wire do you affix the "tag"? If it was a short wire that ran between the the bundled black wires and the shunt terminal screw of the old switch, then the dimmer switch's black wire should be combined with these bundled black wires. One of the dimmer switch's red wires would be connected to the red wire in the box and the dimmer switch's last red wire would be connected to the remaining black wire in the box. I understand that this is the way you have it currently wired - but without being able to dim.

If this is all correct, did you check / change the Minimum Brightness Adjustment setting for the switch as detailed in Step 7 of the directions?

"This Dimmer incorporates a
minimum brightness adjustment
that allows you to set the level of
light when the slider control lever is
in the lowest position.
Move slider to the lowest position.
Using a small, insulated screwdriver,
rotate the adjustment screw as
shown until the desired level of
minimum brightness is obtained."

I hope this helps and good luck!

Dec 31, 2012 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I am wiring 12 Leviton dimmer switches to light up a series of 12 halogen under cabinet hockey puck lights. I am bring power to the first switch through a 14-2 wire and using a pigtail to conduct power to...


You cannot wire dimmers in series and expect circuit to operate.
Problem is not 100% clear. Add a comment and include more information.

1) You have 12 dimmers.
Each dimmer has 2 black wires and a green ground wire.
The 2 black wires tell electrician that the dimmer wires are reversible.
One black dimmer wire connects to Hot from breaker, and the other black wire connects to wire going to Load (halogen lights).
If power passes through each dimmer going to next dimmer, the circuit will not work.

2) Unknown what you are replacing. Are you replacing 12 switches with 12 dimmers? Or maybe replacing 1 switch with 12 dimmers.
Number and type of devices being replaced is not known. And wires to each of these dimmers is not known.

3) You have a single 14-2 wire going to all 14 dimmers? Or does each dimmer have a different 14-2 wire?

4) You want to wire dimmers in series? So you want power to flow through one dimmer and control next dimmer?
You cannot wire dimmers in this manner and expect circuit to operate.
You can wire ordinary switches in series, but not dimmers.

5) Typically dimmers and switches are wired in parallel.
The Hot wire connects to one wire on each dimmer.
Since your dimmer has 2 black wires, the hot connects to either black wire on dimmer.
Then a jumper wire is added to connection, and the jumper wire carries power to next dimmer, and so on.
In this manner, each dimmer receives 120V potential. And then wire going to load connects to other black wire on each dimmer.

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1 Answer

Need to hook this up to a lutron eco-t528-277-2 ballast which only has a hot,dimmed hot and neutral


If I understand correctly, you have Leviton florescent dimmer

And you want to connect dimmer to Lutron ECO-series ballast

This is the ballast with 3 wires: Hot dimmed, Neutral and Hot
02b5a79.jpg

Is this your dimmer???? Has Black, White, Red, Yellow-red, & Orange

3103a3a.jpg


Here's how to do it:
Dimmer yellow-red is not used except for 3-way switch >> cap it off with wire nut
Dimmer orange wire connects to ballast Dimmed Hot
Dimmer red wire connects to ballast Hot
Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral

Those are your wires going to ballast. As you can see, you need 3 wires going to florescent fixture

Next, let's focus on Dimmer:
Dimmer green wire goes to bare ground wire
Dimmer black wire connects to Hot from breaker box (we'll test for that next)
Finally the Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral as discussed above BUT is also has to connect to Neutral from breaker box

This means the Dimmer white wire is connected to 2 wires >> one wire goes to florescent fixture and the other wire comes from breaker box


So which wires come from breaker box??
It should be a black and white wire.
Let's test to find Hot and Neutral that come from breaker box.

Mark your wires.
Disconnect all the wires and separate from each other
Turn on power
Use ordinary tester
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands stay away from electricity
Power is on
Test each wire to bare copper wire
When tester lights up, that is Hot from breaker box ... this wire connects to Dimmer black wire
Now, test the hot wire to each of the other wires
When tester lights up, that is Neutral wire ... this wire connects to Dimmer white wire, and also connects to Ballast neutral.

Connect one wire at a time, and it will work.

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1 Answer

In my electrical box, I have one black, one white and one ground wire coming in. There is a single pole switch in the box now. Black goes to one terminal, white to the other terminal, and the ground to the...


With just two wires other than the ground in the box, both of which were connected to a single pole switch, one must be the incomming power and the other is connected to the load. You can find out which is which either by opening up the fixture box where you will probably find that it is conneted with two white wires or by very carefully positioning the wires so they each are far from touching anything, turning the power on, and testing to see which is hot.
If the dimmer you have does not require you to know the difference between the hot and load wire, then just connect the white and black wires to the dimmer. As the previous poster said, the white wire should have black tape on it.

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I have a new chandelier with 9 12 volt halogen bulbs. I want to install an electronic dimmer switch for it. When purchasing the dimmer switch there are 4 wires included: ground, black, white and neutral....


First you must have a neutral wire in the switch box for this dimmer to work. A neutral wire (white) is a current carrying conductor. A ground wire is an equipment ground and does not normally carry current. You should never connect a device that requires a neutral to a grounding conductor.
The neutral wouldn't have to come from the light fixture as long as it's on the same circuit. Another note is to check your light fixture, and be sure dimming is ok. Another choice you could have is to install a remote dimming device. You would mount this in the fixture canopy, and then use a remote dimmer.

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