When disconnecting supply line and blowing air back thru line it will increase the flow for a short time then reverts back to little to no pressure. We replaced hot water heater which was breaking down at the core and putting a white crystal like subatance in the lines. We have cleaned hot water aerators thru out the house. Everything works except the Kohler 597 faucet.
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Re: low pressure on hot water setting.
You almost had the problem solved. After you back flush the faucet you need to disconnect the line just before the faucet and then run the water into a bucket or down the drain until the line is flushed out. Depending on the size and amount of debris in the line you may have to flush the line further back until you get all the junk out.
The white crystal like substance is scale, a build up of minerals from your water. It might be worth your while to check into a water softener. Most water softener companies will do free water testing to help you determine if you need one. Beware of the high pressure sales gimics though.
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Not likely, but Is Hot water flowing to heater coil in back? How hot is "very hot" Is it a refrigerant line? If a refrigirant line, Very Hot means it is hot gas from the compressor that "should be going to the condenser coil usually in front of the radiator. It's almost impossible for that Hot refrigerant gas to go to the cooling coil in the back unless you had some repairs done and they weren't certified. My guess is the radiator hot water is not being controlled properly, due to bad valve or control system components.
Probably have a plugged heater core, sometimes if you hook the output line up to a hose with the input disconnected you can backwash the core and maybe clear out the stoppage. Otherwise you would need to replace the core!
Has the vehicle been run with anti-freeze its whole life? If not, then flush heater matrix.
With vehicle in cold state, disconnect heater matrix feed and return pipes from within engin bay. Turn the vehicle's internal temperature setting to hot. If the vehicle is fitted with climate control, then do this with the ignition in the 'on' position.
Take a garden hose and with low pressure first, try flushing the matrix. If the water pressure is not enough to flow through matrix at low to medium pressure, then a blockage is almost a certainty. If water does not flow at first, then try using a high pressure air-line to force air and any blockage material through the matrix and out of the exit pipe. You can also reverse the flow to blow or flush any dirt out of the other end.
Once all is clean and free flowing, reconnect and fill entire system with a 50-50 anti freeze-water solution.
If blockage cannot be resolved, then replace heater matrix.
If no blockage is present then continue to check heater control switches and wires.
Check the supply line and valve to see if any dirt or foreign.matter got into the line or valve when you changed out your faucet. if this is not the problem you may have a faulty faucet. You may be able to back flush the faucet with a garden hose by leaving the hot side open, but you will get wet. If you used Teflon tape on the supply line and it is a compression fitting, some of the tape could be blocking the water. for more info go to waterheaterflush.com
Sounds to me you have something wrong with the filter and retaining air there. That air must be purged to get the pressure you need from water supply. Double check that water filter I think your problem is there, Thanks Sea Breeze
As a mechanic, the first thing I would do is find out what the high and low pressure readings are at idle and at 1500 RPM. Could be a blockage in one of the lines, or a blend door problem, or lack of air flow thru the radiator among other things.
It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.
These are the possible issues with the unit, based on the code list and description
Check that the gas is turned on at the water heater and gas meter. Check for obstructions in the flue outlet. Ensure gas line, meter, and/or regulator is sized properly. Ensure gas type and pressure is correct. Bleed all air from gas lines. Ensure proper Rinnai venting material was installed. Ensure condensation collar was installed properly. Ensure vent length is within limits. Verify dip switches are set properly. Ensure appliance is properly grounded. Disconnect keypad. Disconnect EZConnect™ or MSA controls to isolate the problem. Check power supply for loose connections. Check power supply for proper voltage and voltage drops. Ensure flame rod wire is connected. Check flame rod for carbon build-up. Disconnect and re-connect all wiring harnesses on unit and PC board. Check for DC shorts at components. Check gas solenoid valves for open or short circuits. Remove burner plate and inspect burner surface for condensation or debris.
Clean inlet water supply filter. On new installations ensure hot and cold water lines are not reversed. Check for bleed over. Isolate unit from building by turning off hot water line to building. Isolate the circulating system if present. Open your pressure relief valve; if unit fires, there is bleed over in your plumbing. Ensure you have at least the minimum flow rate required to fire unit. Ensure turbine spins freely. Measure the resistance of the water flow control sensor. Check for DC shorts at components
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