Question about Kenmore Refrigerators

2 Answers

My Kenmore (Whirlpool)refrigerator was bought in 1994 Model #106.626636. I cleaned everything,including the coils, and it has power, lights, and the valves work to the icemaker and water dispenser. I have read alot on line and I am thinking that it might be the timer attached to the icemaker since the motor makes no noise at all. Any ideas?

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  • 11 more comments 
  • efstewart May 29, 2010

    I think I did not fully explain the problem. The problem is that the entire refrigerator stopped working, no cooling,no motor noise, just lights. The water valves and the dispensor work just fine. I have already jumped the wire ports and the timer cycles through on the icemaker and delivers water. There is just no cooling or motors working in the entire frig. I read somewhere that if the main condensor motor is not working then it could be the icemaker thermostat unit that is the culprit. I am ready to buy a part but I am worried that it might not be the problem.

  • efstewart May 30, 2010

    Thanks again for you comments. I am sorry but I wrote the wrong model number. The one that I wrote was to the icemaker module. The right model number for the unit is 106.9547680, serial number is SD0323949 . Any more help would be appreciated!

  • efstewart May 30, 2010

    I forgot to say what started this problem. Lately is had been frosting quite a bit in the freezer and the drain plugged up with ice, causing water and ice to appear at the bottom of the freezer in this "side by side" unit. This went on for about the last 6 months. Then just yesterday, the entire Frig stopped cooling and things just started to defrost and ge warm, with no noise from the motor or fan. So I cleaned out the Freezer and noticed large chunks of ice surrounding the wiring of the fan and fins located inside the rear wall of the freezer. All of that is cleaned out now and nothing seems to click on. I just tried turning the little screw located next to the temp control on the Frig side, it says to turn counter clockwise for colder air, but nothing happened when I tried that.

  • efstewart May 30, 2010

    I turned the screw located on the side of the icemake module, it clicked but nothing happened. I also jumped a wire in the N and M holes on the module which caused the timer wheel to rotate and go through a complete cycle of water filling and the icemaker arm going up and down, but still no inside motor or fan turned on, as well as the outside fan and condensor remaining silent. Do you think that this refrigerator is fixable for a reasonable part price?

  • efstewart May 31, 2010

    Thank you "aasc", I will try that when I return from work tomorrow. I did try another test on the ASC board that another forum suggested, I unplugged the Frig and turned it back on, and then heard two clicks from the ASC board. The furum suggested two clicks might indicate that the board is OK, and that the "bi-metal" was not working. What and where is a "bi-Metal"?, and do you agree that the ASC board is OK, or should it be replaced!

  • efstewart May 31, 2010

    RE: my last post, I meant to say the ADC (automatic Defrost Control?) board not ASC, sorry about the mistake.

  • efstewart May 31, 2010

    Thanks for the info on the Bi-metal, but as you said it would not keep the unit from coming back on. The only things that are working for the last 3 days are the Timer located on the icemaker (when I jump the wires), the icemaker valves (water, no ice)the lights, and the clicking noise on the ADC board. Nothing else is even trying to start. Please keep your tips coming,as I have about 1 day left to figure out what part to buy, or replace it (don't want to) or call out someone (too expensive for now). Thanks!

  • efstewart Jun 01, 2010

    to: Jackfrost555, Ok I hope your are right. I will test the thermostat by bypassing it, and hopefully the Frig will kick on. If it does, should I order a new thermostat and defrost timer (on my frig it is attached to the icemaker, from what I have been told and saw)? Or are you talking about the ADC board? Prices are about 56 and 71 each, but a new ADC board is about 100.

  • efstewart Jun 01, 2010

    So if the Frig does not come on when I bypass the Thermostat, then I should replace the ADC Board, right?

  • efstewart Jun 01, 2010

    I just tried jumping the wires to the thermostat. I first tried to jump a red wire to a pink wire that were both clipped on to the side of thermostat, and nothing happened. Then I tried jumping each wire to a white wire that inserts into the back of the thermostat, but does not clip on, and still nothing. What do I do next?

  • efstewart Jun 02, 2010

    Yes it does look like that, anyway nothing happened so I guess that it has to be the ADC board, right?

  • efstewart Jun 02, 2010

    OK, one more thing. I did an ADC board test, where I unplugged the power and then plugged in again, and the ADC board clicked twice but nothing happened, another site talked about the possibility of an open bi-metal. Should I just replace the board and not worry about a possible open bi-metal?

  • efstewart Jun 02, 2010

    Please disregard my last post, as I reviewed the comments from AASC. New board will go in tomorrow!

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  • Master
  • 1,218 Answers

Good day,
I assume the ice maker is not working. Use this guideline. It will get you to the solution.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Posted on May 29, 2010

Testimonial: "I installed the ADC board today and the Frig started right up. You guys were right on about diagnosing the problem and how to fix it. You saved me a lot of money and the hassle of trying to get a repairman out on Memorial Day weekend. This 16 year old frig is working like it's much younger, Thanks again!"

  • 7 more comments 
  • John Hall May 29, 2010

    Good day,

    The model that you refer to was made long before 1994. 1978 to approx. 1982. The ice maker on your model has nothing to do with running or cooling on your model.

    If it is totally dead, then it has to be the timer, which can either be a mechanical style or the newer adaptive electronic control. The other item is the thermostat itself which is the control that has an off position.

    Unfortunately, your model number did not come up, so if your going to Sears or an appliance parts house, you will need to remove and take both of them with you. They should be able to test both.



    Yes a broken wire can cause this as well, but is rare.

  • John Hall May 30, 2010

    My last comment still applies.

  • John Hall May 30, 2010

    Good day,

    Should be repairable, but although it is the goal of FixYa to assist in repairs, sometimes the prudent solution is to call in a pro who is familiar with your machine.

    Just throwing parts at it could well be a waste in time and money.

  • John Hall Jun 01, 2010

    Your problem is actually a simple one. There are 2 reasons the machine will not run. One is the thermostat, and the other is defrost control. Either adaptive (electronic) or the mechanical type. That's it.

    You May consider replacing both of them after getting the price of both controls. I'm sure it would be substantially cheaper than a service call, and substantially less then a new machine. Your type of problem is not considered to be a terminal one.

  • John Hall Jun 01, 2010

    Good day,

    I'm not sure we're on the same page.

    ADC is short for automatic defrost control.

    If the process of jumping the thermostat fails, then common sense says it failed in the defrost mode. In the defrost mode the machine goes totally dead while the heater comes on and melts the frost off of the coils, then after approx. 30 minutes turns the machine back on.

    When you go to an appliance parts house I'm sure they will, (if you get a seasoned counter man) will assist you as to what you need.

  • John Hall Jun 02, 2010

    I'm not sure what part your dealing with. The thermostat should look like this.







    There should be 2 wires one on each brass terminal.

    An additional wire attached to the tstat would be on the back side, and either a green or grren/yellow in color. No option. It is a ground wire.

  • John Hall Jun 02, 2010

    Yes that's the thermostat. If you jumped the 2 wires that go to the thermostat on the BRASS terminals, and it did not start, then the board would be the obvious problem. The board has a failure rate of about 10 to 1 over the thermostat.

    But please don't jump wires to just anything since it can create a short and destroy things you don't want to destroy.

  • John Hall Jun 02, 2010

    If the freezer temp was above freezing then the bi-metal by design would be open. It must be at temperature (0 to 15 degrees) before it can be tested.

  • John Hall Jun 03, 2010

    Good for you ,

    But your not done yet. You'll have (as aasc said,) probably will have to play with the ice maker adjustment to get it back to normal, but that's a minor issue.

    To wrap this up, the bimetal may or may not function. Only time will tell. If in 3 to 5 days the fresh food section starts to get warm, and frost appears on the rear panel of the freezer compartment, you'll need to replace it, but it's a simple job and very inexpensive.

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 1,606 Answers

Open the refrig door , and under the adjustment knobs , look for a hole about 1/2" . Insert a flat head screwdriver into the hole and turn slightly . If the refrig starts , replace the defrost timer .

Posted on May 29, 2010

  • 4 more comments 
  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith May 29, 2010

    Your COMPLETE model number would be more helpful .

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith May 31, 2010

    First , unplug the refrig and plug back in . This should reset the adaptive timer . If the refrig still doesn't come on , "tap " on the ref thermostat knob . If the refrig starts , replace the thermostat . Pt # 2198202 . If the refrig does not start , remove the control knobs and pry the cover off the control from the top . Remove the 4 screws securing the panel to the top of the refrig . UNPLUG THE REFRIG . Remove the 2 wires on the thermostat and jump them together with a piece of wire . Plug the refrig back in and see if it starts . If so , replace the thermostat . If not , then the circuit board ( adaptive defrost timer ) in the control panel , would be the only other cause .

    To remove the control cover , I put a screwdriver in the holes where the knobs came off and pry the top uot first .

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith May 31, 2010

    Jackfrost is correct on the icemaker has nothing to do with the refrig running . If you turned the small whit screw on the side , you have miscalibrated the amount of water which goes into the icemaker during the fill cycle . This will ba a little more difficult to explain adjustment . Just watch for too much water when refrig starts working again .

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith May 31, 2010

    The bi-metal , is a 1" cylinder clipped to the top of the freezer coils with 2 wires going to it . 1 wire goes to the refrig and the other goes to the defrost heater . If this part is bad , then the freezer coils would frost up . It has nothing to do with the running of the refrig , only defrosting .

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith May 31, 2010

    The problem is either the thermostat , which by doing the tap and/or jumper wire will tell you if the adc board is bad .

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith Jun 02, 2010

    Your thermostat ( the piece with the knob on it ) should only have 2 wires plugged onto it plus a green ground .

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