Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have the same problem, although mine is intermittent. Apparently it's a problem with the line freezing. For an excellent discussion of the issue, see http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/advice/t-14182.html
Posted on Jan 05, 2008
The water solenoid valve should have 120v going to it. (You will need a multimeter to chk this). You will need to also chk. for proper ground when verifying the 120v. If you get 120v on each of the pin clips, then your plug is not properly grounded, which means that you need a new ice maker circuit board. This is located in the in dispenser (front panel opens).
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
HI. First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out ok, move on to the water filter(if equipped).
In most units, there will be a filter, present. These devices are set to operate on a particular time frame. If their filtering limit is met, the filter will stop filtering water, thus, not allowing the fluid to flow, at all. Make sure that the filter is up to date. If you have verified that the filter is ok, move on to the water inlet valve assembly.
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to Remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. the multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Now. If the inlet valve is operational, and it has passed the above inspection, this will lead to a faulty inlet switch. This will be located, and mounted on the ice maker module board. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. the traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. These are not serviceable. You will need to replace the entire module, if this is your type. The inlet switch is not accessible. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker.
To determine which model you have, Remove the outer face plate. If there is a knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. If it is a component style ice maker, follow the procedure below to test the inlet switch. if it is a module type, simply replace the entire ice maker. it is not repairable, due to the fact that the inlet switch is not accessible.
component ice maker inlet inspection procedure:(unplug the unit before attempting this inspection)
First you will need to Remove the entire ice maker form the unit.The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, Remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so already. Just along the the edge, nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate. The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker structure.
the inlet switch is located on the mounting plate, near the cam. the inlet switch is mounted on a thin plastic insulator and can be differentiated from the holding switch which sits on a thick spacer. the inlet switch also uses only two wires, while the holding switch uses three. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors.Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals NOTE_ If the connectors are corroded, try to clean them. if the connectors cant be cleaned, simply, replace them.
Now, it is time for the testing section of the procedure.Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to the side terminal and the second probe to each of the other terminals. The reading should be zero on one terminal and infinite on the other. Now, repeat the test while depressing the switch, the readings should now be the reversed. If the switch fails the test, it should be replaced.
* NOTE_ If you have the component type, i would verify motor functions, as well. Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Touch one probe to the wire from the wire cap. Touch the other probe to each of the two other wires in turn. The reading should be between infinity and zero for each wire.If the motor test results in a zero or infinity reading on either wire, the motor should be replaced.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
Ice maker Diagnostic Test:
- Remove the ice bucket
-Turn the ice maker off, wait 15 seconds than turn it back on
-Press the ice paddle three times, this will begin diagnostic test.
-PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH ICE MAKER DURING DIAGNOSTICS
-In 3 minutes you should see the rack inside turn 360 degrees
-AND the ice maker bowl should fill with water
-IF either DID NOT work, call 1-800-GE-CARES for ice maker replacement. A service call is approx $80. The $80 will be deducted from the part/labor if you choose to purchase/install parts from the service technician. If not, you will pay for the service call. Good luck.
Posted on Apr 05, 2010
Thanks for using FixYa. To start with check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve. If still the issue is not resolved then remove the ice bin, Remove the wires from the auger motor. With the freezer door open and the door switch depressed, push the ice cube release and check for 120VAC between the motor wires. If there is 120VAC then the motor has gone bad. If there is no 120VAC then the control board (module time delay) has to be replaced. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.
Posted on Jun 03, 2010
Testimonial: "If water is getting to the door wouldn't the water flow have to be good? Seems like testing the water flow would be a waste of time"
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