Hi, I have the Kicker K5.2 component system w/ 1" tweets and crossovers....my left front is totally dead and my right front goes in and out over bumps, but when i turn the volme up loud, the right front seems to stay on steady, even over bumps. Could the left front crossover have a blown fuse, and MoreHi, I have the Kicker K5.2 component system w/ 1" tweets and crossovers....my left front is totally dead and my right front goes in and out over bumps, but when i turn the volme up load, the right front seems to stay on steady, even over bumps. Could the left front crossover have a blown fuse, and if so, can you replace those fuses or do you just new crossovers? Thanks, Vic May 28, 2010 - I pulled the left front 5-1/4 kicker out and will test alone to see if it works. The crossovers are Kicker, that came with the set. I opened one up and saw two large looking fuses that are sodered in. I had this system installed in my 97 528i some years ago, but don't want to buy parts as i go, I wanted to buy a kit that would have woofers, tweets and crossovers, if needed. I will check the amp also to see if any fuses are blown. If the left front woofer that i took out works fine, then i will look into the crossovers, but if i have to but them, can i buy any make to work with this Kicker K5.2 kit? I tested the left front speaker and it works. I guess my next step is to check the fuses on the amp.

Determining the Cause of the Problem Let's assume our system has a head unit, a crossover, a two channel amplifier and two door speakers with only the right speaker working (the left speaker is not working). If the door speakers are behind the door panels then we want to make sure the speaker is the problem before removing the panel. We'll work backwards starting with the amplifier and ending at the head unit. Testing for a Speaker Problem With the vehicle and the stereo turned off disconnect the speaker wires for both the left and right speakers at the amplifier. Now connect the left speaker to the right amplifier output (which we know works). Turn on the stereo system and make sure the balance is set to the middle position.If the speaker still doesn't work then the problem is somewhere between the amplifier and the speaker Testing for an Amplifier Problem Now we'll need to see if the amplifier channel is bad. Put the left speaker back on the left amplifier channel and the right speaker on the right amplifier channel. This returns the speaker wiring to its original configuration. Again, with the vehicle and stereo off unplug the RCA cables from the amplifier's input and switch them so the left cable is in the right input and vice versa. Turn on the stereo system. Testing for an RCA Cable Problem For any intermediate components between the amplifier and the head unit follow these steps for each one. We only have a crossover so we'll just do this once. Begin by testing the RCA cables between the intermediate component and the amplifier. Unplug both RCA cables from the intermediate component's output. Now plug the working channel's RCA cable into the non-working side of the crossover. In our case the working channel is the right so plug the right RCA cable from the amplifier into the left side of the crossover. Turn on the stereo system.
If the right channel continues to work then you know the problem is in the RCA cables between the amp and the crossover. esting for a Crossover or Equalizer Problem At the input of the intermediate component (in our case the crossover) flip the RCA cables around (left to right input and vice versa). Turn on the stereo system.
If the right channel continues to work and the left channel continues to not work then you know the problem is in the intermediate component. Replace or repair this component.
If the problem is now in the right speaker and the left speaker works then the problem lies before the crossover. Turn off the stereo system and return the RCA cables to their normal places.
Testing for a Head Unit or RCA Cable Problem Pull out the head unit from the dash so you can access the RCA cables. Unplug both RCA cables from the head unit. Do not disconnect any other wiring. Plug the right RCA cable into the left channel of the head unit. Turn on the stereo system.

Did you change out the factory deck? If not, wire the tweets to the existing wiring. If you already have tweets they have been crossedover already. However, if you replaced the deck, you may need to run new wire to the doors and use the crossover that came with your component set. Hope this helps

Hi,

Basically the wiring of the large harness corresponds to the pins like this.

Starting in the upper right hand corner and working down the right side from A12 down to A1.

1=Left rear output-red
2=Left rear output-blue
3=Right rear output-black
4=Right rear output-yellow
5=empty
6=Left front input-black
7=Left front input-yellow
8=Left rear input-orange
9=Left rear input-green
10=Amp 'ON'-blue&orange
11=empty
12=Amp sensor-black&orange

Back up to upper left hand corner on the large plug

13=Right front tweeter output-red
14=Right front tweeter output-blue
15=Left front tweet output-red
16=Left front tweeter output-blue
17=empty
18=Right front input-red
19=Right front input-white
20=Right rear input-blue
21=Right rear input-red
23=Right front sub (+) output-yellow
24=Right front sub (-) output-black

The small harness is the same above with the upper right position being pin 1 going down to pin 4 then back up to the top for pin 5 down to pin 8.

1=Memory Power-Lrg White
2=Amp Ground- Lrg Black
3=Left front sub (+)output-yellow
4=Left front sub (-) output-black
5=Left front mid (+) output-white
6=Left front mid (-) output-brown
7=Right front mid (-)output-brown
8=Right front mid (+) output-white


Hope this will help you.

Thank you

Check all your RCA"smake sure they all have output..Then use a fluke metere, or any meter you can get that tests ohms, and measure each speaker..they should all read arround 4. If the outputs from the deck are good, and the speakers measure correctly, then you have got yourself a bad amp.

The way the EQ is hooked up is correct.

You set the factory radio to a set level, then use the volume on the EQ for everyday adjustments.

I believe your problem lies in the amplification.
Your BOSE amplifier was made to run a 4 channel 8ohm stero load.
Low powered - high in sound quality.

You have swapped the factory 8 ohm speakers (15W) for 4 ohm power hungry ones.
Now the amplifier is working harder to produce the same output.

You would be best served eliminating the factory amplifier and getting 1 good 4 or 5 channel amp to power your speakers.

a 4 channel amplifier could be used stereo (left and right) on channels 1 and 2, (2ohm stereo load)
and bridge channels 3 and 4 for your subwoofer.

For a true surround sound - a 5 channel amplifier could run each speaker individually, and the 5th channel is reserved for the subwoofer.

a small dedicated 75wx4 channel amplifier with built in crossover, and level gain controls - would blow your socks off. It is 200x better than the factory 12Watt amplifier. Your ears will love you for it :D

If you need more help - just let me know.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

No. I would recomend running front and rear to the crossover. Use the sub out on the deck so you have total control of subwoofer output at your fingertips. Your deck should have at LEAST an 80hz crossover built in. Any further fine tuning can be done at the sub amp.

Larry T
Winona Lake,IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

More information is required to start solving your problem. (ie. your make and model of "1500W amp", the voicecoil configuration of the kicker and Audiobahn 15's, and why you want to encorprate 2 crossovers in your system)
Seems as If you have a system without a plan.
Head unit?
More info necessary to give you the best use of your components.

here is a website to install the cap. to the amp:

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_capacitor_installation/car_audio_capacitor_installation.htm#car_audio_capacitor_installation

here is a website to install the second battery:

http://www.freeinfosociety.com/article.php?id=2

here is a website to install the amp. & subs.:

http://www.ehow.com/how_3680_install-car-amplifier.html

hope this help;s. please don't forget to rate this solution.

thanks tom

Need more info..
How many amps and their RMS rated power.?
If one amp, how many channels + individual power for each channel?.
Two crossovers set at the same freq.is redundant and likely to cause more problems.
Do the front speakers have their own X-over? whats the X-over point? and what is their freq. response (total) are they separates
Rear speakers same question.
I'll point out that you cant hear below 20Hz unless your a whale and very few instruments go that low except organs and synthasizers.
The subsonic filter merely block the lower harmonics from eating up amp power.
Their is no universal setting. all systems are different, as are cars, interiors, ears, windows up or down, noise floor, etc.
A RTA helps with the basics but you will still have to tune by ear,
Good sound is difficult enough to achieve,
Great sound is trial and error and very time consuming.
Sorry no simple answer here. Find a good installer ,preferably with sound judging experience,
It wont be cheap, but if you have enough money invested in the system, Don't skimp. or all you'll have is bragging rights
Best of luck, Sumthin

As long as the crossover keeps the frequency going to the tweeters within a safe range (I'd say about 500hz+, read the box or look it up by model number) they should be just fine. That is what the crossover is for.