Question about Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer

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Did not finish draining or spinning

We have a Kenmore Elete HE4t washer, We washed a load of jeans. I don't know where in the cycle that the washer stopped. When I went to take the jeans out of the washer there was still water in the bottom of the washer. The controlled locked light is on and I cannot get any of the other lights to light up. I have unplugged the washer, waited and plugged it back in and the controlled locked light is still on.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore He4t frontloading machine flashing F 02

U have something stuck in your water pump u need a torx 20 and some hose clamps unplug the machine take the three torx screws off the toe panel put the hose clamps on the white plastic waterpumps hose that goes from the back of the pump to the bottom of the drum unscrew the pump to the left and pull out you can also use the toe panel to catch some of the water pull anthing out of it that u can and replace everything back try taht first

Posted on Mar 20, 2007

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite HE4T front load washing machine standing water

This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587481-prevent_washer_siphoning

Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.

Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:

1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.

Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Posted on Sep 02, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore washing machine flashing dl he4t

"Fdl" is a Door Latch Failure error code. This is an indication that either the door latch mechanism has failed, the Central Control Unit (CCU) has failed, or you have a problem with the interconnecting wiring between the two.

I recommend you refer to the tech sheet to determine how to determine which component is causing the error code.

Each one of these washers come with a technicial data sheet inside the unit. To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the washer. You may have to prop the front feet of the washer up for better access to the panel screws (a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel will dro down, then come off. The tech sheet will be located either directly behind the panel, or affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. Included in the tech sheet are all the error code definitions, troubleshooting data, wiring diagrams and diagnostics procedures.

If you determine the door latch is defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575840-replacing_a_door_latch

NOTE: A simple test that you can try to see if the latch has failed, or if the problem is with the Central Control Unit (CCU) is to lightly tap on the control board with a screwdriver at the point where the door latch connectors. There's a relay on the board that controls the locking and unlocking of the door latch. Sometimes the relay sticks, causing the error code to appear. Sometimes this can free up a stuck relay.


To access the CCU, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the washer.

2. Remove the top panel of the washer by locating and removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off.

3. The CCU is located top center behind the wash tub. Locate the connector plug(s) that run to the door latch. Unplug each connector one at a time and reseat them. Sometimes this can restore a connection where continuity is lost due to corrosion or oxidation.

4. Attempt to start a wash cycle and see if it works. If not, as the washer tries to lock the door latch, tap the board where the door latch connection(s) are.

NOTE: The washer usually makes 4 attempts to lock the door, before it errors out.

If none of these preliminary measures work, you may need to replace the CCU. If you can get the CCU to work, but still have to tap on it each time, you should replace it as well. This may get you by in the interim while awaiting parts (if you can get it to work this way).

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

I have found these sites to be reputable and provide great service. Prices differ between them, so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list also include exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the part(s) you need. The Sears website will sometimes offer a refurbished CCU for much less.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Mar 02, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE4t washer won't spin

The motor controller board is likely bad.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore HE4T washer is leaking during rinse cycle

1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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