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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same tripped breaker problem with a similar Sears model 919.195060 (25 gal) and luckily I had access to another, almost identical sears compressor to swap parts to diagnosis it. It turned out to be the run capacitor, but from what I was finding in my on-line research, it could have been a bad winding on the motor or the start capacitor just as easily. If your resistor is outside of the capacitor, just cut the wire right at the capacitor and add flag termnals Mine had 3 wires coming out of the capacitor (not the normal terminal cap style), and two of them were basically just tied together (same color). I didn't have an external resistor. I bought a GE 97F9614 run capacitor (40 mf, 370vac) and other than having to cut out a bit of the plastic on the mounting bracket and buying "flag" style 1/4" terinals from radioshack, it fit and worked perfectly. It seems if GE is the only one that has the right dimensions (1.75dia x 3.88 long, not including the terminals. That capacitor cost $27.50 with tax at a local electric motor shop. Sears doesn't even have any info on the motor parts, like capacitor - they want to sell you a new motor for almost as much as a new whole compressor. I ended up looking at parts forr the motor on a Devilbliss (that's what the 919 means on the model number, that it's made by Devilbliss), but it was not an easy way to go and really didn't help that much). The easier/normal way of matching capacitors is to measure the case dimensions carefully and match up the voltage and uf (or mf) specs,
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
It sounds like either the check valve or the switch that lets the air pressure off of the pressure switch is broke. After the compressor pumps to shut off pressure, when it shuts off, it should let a short burst of air from the switch. If it does this, that parts good. Give it a little time, then manually push that plunger on the switch.( you're trying to see if the check valve, which is a one way valve, is leaking air back into the cylinder) If air is release from that plunger, the check valve is leaking and will not let the compressor start, because air has leaked back into the cylinder.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Look instead at the motor and drill post bearings. Remove the belt to see if the motor runs correctly with no load. If it still hums and gets hot, check that the motor itself turns freely (when off). If the motor seems to be ok, turn the driven pulley by hand--it should also turn freely. The capacitor is usually a starting assist, not running. To test, wrap a small rope several turns (when pulled must turn in the normal direction) around the small motor pulley and pull smartly while turning the motor on. If it now comes up to speed, the capacitor has lost capacitance. Electronic parts suppliers like Jameco or Mouser have such items.
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
You may find the parts that you need at the following web site...http://www.eceilingfans.com/
They have all of the capacitors there. All you need are the number of wires and the capacitor micro-farad ratings.
Posted on Oct 22, 2010
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