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I believe this is a hydro-sparker pilot ignition then burner on when T-Couple/Flame Sensor acknowledges pilot lit.
W/O the signal feedback the Gas Valve will not open and light burner.
This is a Technician Service Job as you have insufficient knowledge to DIY this potentially dangerous LP/NG Control Valve/Sparker Assembly
I assume that lack of knowledge by your lack of a Manual for the Unit
You cannot force ignition on a hydro-sparker manually.
For (fire) safety, there is usually a thermostat that will turn off the gas if pilot light goes out.
So when you try to light the pilot you will have keep press & hold the pilot gas supply for at least 10 sec until the thermostat is heated up. Then only when the pilot light stays on continually, can you turn on the burner.
Forget about changing to a High pressure regulator!
When the main burner turns off, does it make a whoosh or pop? If so, this would be the issue causing the pilot to be disturbed. And have you tried to adjust the pilot/thermopile strength, if possible? A stronger pilot may help. Now if the main burner slowly goes out, and the pilot also slowly goes out, and also slow to ignite, and you've replaced about everything else, it may be the gas valve itself that has/is giving up. Gas is impure and causes a sticky residue. And if the main burner is "slow to act", this tells me the piston that's inside the valve is slowly opening or closing, and may be the reason the pilot is acting up. Make sure you check the outlet to your flue pipe also for obstructions. If the unit doesn't vent properly it can have more heat in the flue. That heat can have a downward rush when the burner goes out, kinda like forcing air through a clogged tube. And when you quit forcing the air, some of it comes back at you. Before condemning the valve try to check all else as you have done with the thermopile and such. Please work safe and I hope this helps.
Sounds like the pilot is dirty....when dirty it gets smaller and lazy...tends to go out easy...try gently tapping it with a screwdriver...make the pilot bluer and bigger....when it's dirty it has yellow tips or yellow completely , the pilot should fully envelope the thermocouple as well
take millivolt reads while main burner is on.i suspect you will see a drop in voltage until you get to point where it will no longer operate burner(around 200mv).if this is the case you probably have poor pilot characteristics due to dirty pilot,pilot out of adjustment ,obstruction or insufficient gas pressure
some models have one gas pilot for 2 burner front and rear and there is a small pipe that goes front the burner to to the pilot, the burner has small holes facing the pipe the goes to the pilot that's where you take a paper clip or a safety pin and clear or clean the holes, the same thing on the electronic ignition, but some electronic ignition they have a spark right nest to the burner and by looking at the other burner that are working you can see where it's sparking, and clean in between the burner and the spark.