Question about Bose Companion 3 Computer Speakers

4 Answers

I have bose computer speakers. they include 2 little speakers with a sub. the 'nucleus' of the unit is a hockey puck size/shaped controler that lets you tap it to toggle from on to a mute state. it also can be turned for volume... and headphones can be plugged in here as well. when it is in the on state the puck has a little green light... (it is a sort of orange in the 'mute' state). the speakers no longer work - the puck is no longer tappable - it just luminates with the faintest green light. if i put headphones in the puck the DO work. is the speaker system gone for good? thanks for any help. --------------- btw - it looks like the same problem someone else recently posted: By mobozak on May 17, 2010" " My companion 3 computer speakers stopped working. The controller light stays on a faded green. The controller will not respond at all and

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Hey,

How old are the speakers, how long have they been in use? Possible fault can be the power supply of the speakers, in these it might be internal, inside the sub.

It is most likely a power supply issue, the speakers don't wear out like a power supply does.

could be bulky or leaking capacitors inside, you might want to take it to a electronics repairer, might be a simple fix.

Or you can of course take it apart yourself, take a good close look at the caps and if any of them are not flat, replace them, with same voltage rating caps, preferably same UF rating, a bit higher is OK.

Posted on May 30, 2010

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  • Master
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Bose® products are covered under limited warranty for at least one year from the purchase date. Please refer to your Bose owner’s guide for specific details. If you are under a year you are in good shape, can you try these on another acoustimass, it sounds like a wire came off to me. If there are any fuses that you can change do that first. Last resort is to open the module and check to see if all that tapping somehow loosened a connection or a wire came off. Please use extreme caution and unplug everything. If there are resistors , capacitors or diodes in that controller, thay shouuld be checked obviouslly something blew or is intermittent. If you know how to use and have a voltmeter check the resistors and the capcitors. If not just rplace them. Radio shack has all the components or a local electronics store. I fixed a 2000 dollar Samsung LCD, "mine" with 5 dollars worth of capacitors. if you need any advice or help I will pull up a shematic f the system and take a look at it, I just wanted you to have someting to start with, beng a holidat weekend, I am sue it can be fixed, and it seems it's a common problem with that system thus the one year warantee indtead of their usul 5 yr,thanks, Gymowner, keep me in the loop I will be around all weeekend

Posted on May 29, 2010

  • t_abouchar May 30, 2010

    thanks for the reply! i saw one of the pod controllers on ebay for a few buck - i was thinking about getting this but figured that it was unlikely to be related to that, and more likely to be something related to the sub as it seemed to me that all of the primary components would be housed there. however, if you suspect that it may even be remotely possible that it could be that controller i would just go ahead and try it out since its not too much.

    also, like you said it seems that this problem does not seem unique to me as others seem to have described that same issue. i am surprised that we cant find a definite explanation somewhere... do you know if even perhaps on a bose site such a knowledge base would exist? thanks!

  • George Bill
    George Bill Jun 04, 2010

    It all comes down to research, just to explain myself, I had a problem with a 3000.00 Samsung Led, 55 inch, it would take forever clicking over and over until it finally went on. It got to the point where I said that's it, and started googling all sorts of phrases. I found that this was quite a common problem with this model. Now having beed an engineer "but not having really used my skills for 3 decades" I started to look a the schematics and noticed that the power board had maybe 20 capacitors on it all but 5 were rated for 20 volts. So logically I wanted to know why those 5 were 10 volts instead. Yea "good luck trying to get an answer from Samsung admitting that they just preferred to fix them "most off warantee" because it took about 2 years for this to occur. So the repair tech came out we spoke and he showed me the board. He knew I knew. Although when I asked him why don't they just change them all out to 20v. He laughed, he said you know why, most people aren't going to do what you did. They will just go and buy another one, for 2 dollars worth of parts they will spend 2 thousand dollars on a new set, and just to see if his theory held water, I called two of my buddies with the same basic set. And they agreed that they would just throw it away and buy a new tv. Samsung overnighted him the capacitors which were still the 10 volt, not the 20 that it required, so he "the repair tech" who I had gotten friendlly with at this point and given him a $50 to do the repair in my home, "he wanted to take the module away and fix it then return it. I said no way, last time you guys did that I was without a tv for 8 months. He came back two days later removed the 5 caps in 15 minutes we screwed it together and it works better than when it was new. No more clicking and no more on and off and the volume inrcreades a good 20%. The reason I told you this is that these companys will never admit that the under engineered something, or that they know what is wrong with it but if they tell you, they will have to recall millions of dollars worth of units and face all kinds of legal and monetary problems. It is probablly something stupid like a 10 cent resistor. That is causing the problem.The best way is to spend the two or three hours on the computer and go into forums like I did until you find the exact cause , and you will. But I don't have the time to reverse engineed the unit for you , I am sorry but it just would take too long, that's why even the repair techs just change a module instead of trying to narrow down the part. It is too expensive when they are paying a tech an average of $115-125 per hour in most cities in the US.So unless it's readilly available or it's your possesion, it's very hard to get anyone to take responsibility, It just costs too much. I think you are on the right track, see if you can pick up the parts on ebay untill you find the part that is causing the problem. Unless you have the ability to use a miltimeter and measure the current and the impedence and such to do it yourself, sorry i couldn't be more help but I would rather be honest than try to give you a canned answer taht I was not sure of. Good luck,

    Gymowner

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If the Control box you described is lit faintly, There may be problem with the power unit of the speaker system. It may not be receive/ giving the right voltage to power the control board on the speaker. Let an experienced technician look at it I assure you your speaker will work again

Posted on May 28, 2010

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The sensor switch inside the speaker's headphone jack may have been stuck up in the "ON" position. I had the same problem with my speaker and I had to stick a pin and wiggle the jack sometimes it works but most of the time it is annoying and I couldn't find a replacement part to fix the problem.

Posted on May 28, 2010

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