Question about Lutron MIR-600MT - Dimmer Controls - 600W - Multi Location Incandescent Dim

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Have a MIRELV-600M with 2 MA-R in a 4 way situation. Lutron tech support has given us a different wiring solution each time we call but it still does not work. They say that these product are compatible to work together. Thanks

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  • gpatton00 May 28, 2010

    You obviously did not read the question. This is not a line voltage typical 3 or 4 way switch. It is a low voltage electronic dimmers which can have up to 9 dimmers together.

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The products ARE compatible with one another. I don't know why their tech support would give you different answers each time, other than I can tell you from personal experience, trying to describe wiring combinations/configuraitons over the phone is not an easy process. Regardless...

The critical thing is to make sure that on all three devices, the blue screws are wired to one another and ONLY to one another. Also make sure that on each device, none of the screws are shorted together, each screw should be going to a separate connection. There are some additional best practices, but those are the two critical pieces.

If you're still struggling with it. Take it piece by piece. Just power up the dimmer, and short out the MA-R locations (not including the wire attached to the dimmer's blue screw). Prove the dimmer works. Add in one MA-R, get that up and running. Then add in the second.

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

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The best I can do is tell you how a 3 way and a 4 way switching circuit works, once you understand that all you have to do is throw in the dimmer (note: you can only have one dimmer in a circuit, the rest of the switches must be simple on and off switches). I did some research on the dimmers you purchased to use, and it claims that the accessory dimmers can be used along with the MIRELV's as you have said but in my experience when you try to do something like that, one dimmer would have to know what the other two are doing, and that is not happening, and unless the current is electronically controlled on the whole circuit by each dimmer, you'll never get all three dimmers to work.. So lets see if we can get it wired properly and get it to work, if not you will have to try using one dimmer and two regular switches and see if it resolves your problem. In every four way circuit there is at least 2 three way switching devices, one at the beginning of the circuit where the power comes in and one at the end of the circuit where the power goes out to the lights. You can have numerous 4 way devices in the middle of the two three way devices. So let start at the first 3 way device, which will have three terminals one it. Every three way switching device has whats called a common terminal, this is where your incoming power attaches. Then you have 2 "traveling" terminals where your traveling wires will connect (called this because your power will travel to or communicate with your four way switch through these wires (note: you cannot mix these wires up or your circuit will not work). Order doesn't matter at the three way, but at the four way you need to keep them straight; there are four terminals on your four way switch designed to pass the current along that you fed it from the three way. The are two types of four way terminals, some times incoming wires go on top or bottom terminals, sometimes on left or right side. Either way if incoming wires are on top and you have red wire on one side and black on the other when power leaves at the bottom you keep the colors on the same side (Note: all these concept apply if your dimmers have pigtail wires to attach the wires to as well). And once you get to you final three way switch you want to keep the traveling wire colors the same as the terminals on the first three way switch. The power will leave this last switch and go out to your lights through the common terminal. If your dimmers happen no to work, remove two devices and replace with two normal switches, just make sure they are three way or four way switches as needed (remember four ways go in the middle of two three ways). Three way switching and four way switching is very confusing, and I know the Lutron company won't try to explain how things work, just take your time with it.

Posted on May 28, 2010

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You can access Lutron's Wiring Library here:

http://www.lutron.com/Service-Support/Technical/Pages/WiringDiagrams.aspx

I couldn't find an MA-400 or High Power 2 dimmer, so you might want to double check the model numbers and look for a match in the link above.

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There's not a lot of detail in this question, but I'll give it a shot. For the AB-600M-, you do not need a neutral connection at all. In fact, this should wire up like any every-day light switch. What's probably confusing you is that there's probably a blue screw on there. If you're using this in a single-pole application, you don't attach anything to the blue-screw. If you're using this in a 3-way application, the blue screw is used as one of the traveller wires to the other location.

I think that's the best I can do with the information given. My suggestion is for you to call the manufacturer's tech support at 1-800-523-9466 - the're available 24/7 and can help you out a lot faster than an on-line forum every would.

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Despite the fans working on a plain Jane single pole switches, I can't get these 6515M switches to work for my 1.3 ceiling fans. The fan hums and all I get on the timers are red LEDs. These timers...


1) Leviton 6515 is incandescent only:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-6515M-I-2-5-10-15-Electronic-Incandescent/dp/B0007NOZDI

2) Below is list of countdown timers with horsepower rating so they work for fans:

GE15088 countdown timer is rated 3/4 hp
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay

Intermatic spring wound countdown timers are rated for 2 horsepower
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/in-wall%20timers/decorator%20spring%20wound%20timers.aspx

Woods spring-wound countdown timer says bath/ ceiling fans, but doesn't give horsepower
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http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#countdown

Woods push-button countdown is 1/4 horsepower
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Wattstopper RT50 at Grainger shows 1/6 horsepower rating
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WATT-STOPPER-Time-Switch-2HTE1?Pid=search


3) Following timers are NOT rated for fans:

Lutron MA-T51 countdown timer specifically says it cannot be used for motors.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-T51-WH-Maestro-Countdown-Timer/dp/B001EFV1DA
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Pass and Seymour RT1 countdown does not show rating for horsepower, so this timer will probably not work for fan motor
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Need the wiring diagram for MAW-603-rh-wh


http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301122A.pdf

On the first page, its the wiring diagram smack-dab in the middle.
If you couldn't find it before, its because the MAW-603-RH-WH is a package containing two other products, the MA-600 and the MA-R. So the instructions I have noted above are appropriate.

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1 Answer

How do I wire up a Maestro Lutron MAW-603-RH dimmer in a 4-way situation?


If you bought the 3-way package, there should've been two products included: the MA-600- and the MA-R. First of all, if this is a four way circuit, that means you currently have at least three switch locations. The package you bought takes cares of two of those locations, but to get the third, you need another MA-R. If there are more locations than that, each additional location requires an MA-R.

It doesn't matter which product (the MA-600 or the MA-R) you put at each location. They all wire the same.

At the 3-way locations (ends of the lighting circuit), install the dimmers just like you would a standard 3-way switch. The only thing I caution you, make sure that the blue screw on the dimmer is connected to one of the traveller wires going to the next switch box. Also note what color wire its attached to - because when you go to that next switch box, the blue screw of that dimmer needs to tie to that same wire. At the 4-way switch box, the most important thing to remember is this.... make sure all the blue screws are connected together (which is why its important to know WHICH wire is connected to the 3-way switches).

As long as you have enough product and you tie the blue screws together, it should work.

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1 Answer

Lutron dimmers throught the house, lights go high brightness to low all by themselves, is this just a bad dimmer?


I have spent considerable time on the Lutron site past couple days looking at their dimmers.

Lutron has a lot of dimmer varieties. The basic breakdown is 600Watt and 1000Watt. But different dimmers control different types of lighting.
Here is the long list of Lutron dimmer manuals:
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http://www.lutron.com/Service-Support/Technical/InstallationInstructions/Pages/InstallationInstructions.aspx?syst=Dimmers+%26+Switches&prodn=Maestro%C2%AE+dimmer+%26+switch


I cannot find a specific troubleshoot manual for Lutron dimmers
So I suggest 4 things:
1) Feel the dimmer switch for heat >>> if it is getting hot (not warm), then that dimmer is dangerous, so remove dimmer immediately, add up your total bulb wattage to make sure you're below the 600 or 1000 watt capacity of you model dimmer
2) Look at the list of manuals shown at link, and make sure your dimmer matches the type of bulb you are using. Your dimmer model number and wattage should be printed on side or back of dimmer.
3) These dimmers use electronics to control the lights. Electronics go bad. The higher the wattage controlled by your dimmer, the more heat, and the shorter the dimmer life.
4) Short in the wires. Replace your dimmer with one from Home Depot and see if the condition persists. If it does, then a short is probably somewhere in that circuit. Troubleshooting a short is another long answer that needs more wiring detail ... please repost if you have a short.

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1 Answer

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1) Overview of product indicates it dims by electronics (they say saves 15% electricity)
The electronics might be bad
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/MaestroDimmerSwitch/Pages/Overview.aspx

2) Load types
Different dimmers are made to work with different types of lighting
Depending on your model number, the type of load may be a factor
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/MaestroDimmerSwitch/Pages/Models.aspx

3) Total load
A regular 15 amp light switch carries 1440 watts
If you have the 600 Watt dimmer, load wattage should not exceed 600W >>> add up total bulb wattage

4) Lutron seems to have about 60 different manuals
A quick look at the wiring seems straightforward 1-1 wiring replacement with ordinary switch
Did you connect ground wire to green screw on dimmer?

5) If the dimmer and load requirements match with the dimmer you own, I think the problem might be a short .... exactly where the short is located is solvable by testing the lights and timer and surrounding circuits with a multi-tester >>> the testing would start at the dimmer.

6) All considered, you could replace the dimmer with another one from Home Depot and see if same problem persists.

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Call their tech support center at 1-800-523-9466. First of all, they should be able to send you a replacement. You also may be able to talk them into a different product that doesn't have the same issue. I think the challenge you're having is that its a slide dimmer, and for whatever reason, the slider is just falling down ever-so-gradually over time. They make another product (the AB-600M-WH) which fits in the same opening and works off of push-buttons rather than sliders.

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My first thought is that if you were using these devices to replace existing light switches, the MA-S8AM has an additional electrical connection that wasn't necessary with a light switch or the MA-600. The MA-S8AM has an addtional screw on it (I think its silver in color) that connects to the neutral wire in the circuit. Hopefully you have a bunch of white wires all wire-nutted together in the back of the box - pull a connection from there and attach.

If that's not the issue, then I would call Lutron's tech support. They're available 24/7, so you may as well. They're at 1-800-523-9466.

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2 Answers

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