Question about Rowenta DG-980 Iron

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Ineed to know wiring seqence - Rowenta DG-980 Iron

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I do not have a wiring diagram, but I was able to locate a website that had a rough assembly drawing:

http://www.smallappliance.com/images/SmallAppliance/English/products/standard/DG980-Schematic.pdf

Post up as your troubleshooting progresses.

Posted on Jun 07, 2010

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I would really need to know more information about the problem and what it is you are trying to actually do before I can really help.

Posted on May 28, 2010

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http://www.welco.com.cn/?gclid=CJiWv7TN2ZQCFQpzHgodl1LXQQ

Make sure you get one of the exact same cutoff point as the one designed for yours. If you put in a higher temp device it will be harder to blow but will make it dangerous as it may cause a fire if it over heats. Some shady repair men will just bypass this and it will work again fine but this is a dangerous practice as it directly puts you of danger. If you do have it repaired at a shop demand for the old thermal cutoff from your unit when you drop it off so the tech will know you know what is wrong with it and that you will check to make sure that it has really been changed. This will also not give him the chance to over charge you when he knows you know it is only a 1 dollar part and easy to change.
This device is very easy to change, If you can open your unit you could easily do this yourself. The part, as you will see on the site where you buy them, only has 2 wires one coming out of each end. You simply cut out the old 1 and replace it with the new one. You do not even have to worry which end goes where. It is like a fuse, it works the same either direction. You have to buy some wire crimp connector to connect it, you can not just solder it in due to the heat in the iron. In a pinch you could just securely twist the ends of the leads with the leads from the old cutoff if you clip the leads from the old cutoff real close to the device. This will leave you with plenty of wire to get a good twist. I always use the crimp connectors so it looks more professional.
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It sounds to me like the thermal cutoff switch has blown. Irons have these as a safety device similar to a fuse to protect against fire in the event the iron gets too hot. These are not very costly to replace. Here is a link to where you can buy them:

http://www.welco.com.cn/?gclid=CJiWv7TN2ZQCFQpzHgodl1LXQQ

, Make sure you get one of the exact same cutoff point as the one designed for your Iron. If you put in a higher temp device it will be harder to blow but will make the iron dangerous as it may cause a fire if it over heats. Some shady repair men will just bypass this and the iron will work again fine but this is a dangerous practice as it directly puts you of danger. If you do have it repaired at a shop demand for the old thermal cutoff from your unit when you drop it off so the tech will know you know what is wrong with it and that you will check to make sure that it has really been changed. This will also not give him the chance to over charge you when he knows you know it is only a 1 dollar part and easy to change.
This device is very easy to change, If you can open your iron you could easily do this yourself. The part, as you will see on the site where you buy them, only has 2 wires one comming out of each end. You simply cut out the old 1 and replace it with the new one. You do not even have to worry which end goes where. It is like a fuse, it works the same either direction. You have to buy some wire crimp connector to connect it, you can not just solder it in due to the heat in the iron. In a pinch you could just securely twist the ends of the leads with the leads from the old cutoff if you clip the leads from the old cutoff real close to the device. This will leave you with plenty of wire to get a good twist. I always use the crimp connectors so it looks more professional.
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