The dryer light goes on, so it's not the fuse.
The door switch turns the internal light on so It's not the door switch.
It doesn't even start to turn over when I press the start button.
Any suggestions would be welcomed.
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Re: Dryer will not start
The temperature of the air being exhausted is monitored by the cycling thermostat and the thermal fuse mounted on the blower housing. The thermal fuse, which is wired in series with the motor circuit, fails when the cycling thermostat fails to regulate the exhaust air temperature. Failure of the thermal fuse results in the motor not running and the dryer not working at all.
Remove the dryer real panel to access the blower housing and check the continuity of the thermal fuse. Grab a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale then disconnect one wire from the thermal fuse terminals then check the continuity of the thermal fuse. Replace the thermal fuse should it read open.
Indicate the exact model number of the dryer for specific troubleshooting and repair advice if you need further assistance and for the exact part numbers.
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follow this steps and fix it. God bless you Light Socket
The light socket can get corroded or a wire connection can come loose. You will need to remove the front panel to access the housing on most dryers.
If your dryer has an interior light, it probably uses a standard 40-watt
appliance bulb, but check your owner's manual to be sure. If the bulb
is good but the light won't come on, check the door switch, which serves
two functions: When the door is closed, it turns off the light and
allows the dryer to start. When the door is open, it turns on the light
and prevents the dryer from starting. To check the door switch check
for continuity. You should have some when the door is closed and none
when the door is opened.If not replace the door switch by removing the front panel.
It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker
Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some
components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element
requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be
fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be
caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of
the internal wiring. Loose connections on the power cord cause failures
and or fires. This can be checked with the dryer unplugged and removing
the service cover and visually check for burning and mechanically check
If the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows when the dryer is
unplugged, it's likely the problem is with the house wiring, fuse box,
or circuit box. Contact a qualified electrician.
Please check the door switch for a click when you just open or close the door. Within about 1 inch of closed usually you will hear an audible click. You said the light works so I doubt the door switch is the problem... (it still can be the problem though) 1/2 of the switch is for light control the other half for drying control.
The other suspects can be 1. The start switch 2. Timer control 3. Motor control switch
ONE more thing to check is go to the main circuit breaker panel and physically push the dryer CB to OFF then back on. After doing this try to start the dryer. Sometimes ONE of the 2 CB's trips for unknown reasons.
Finally if the dryer vent system was restricted and the the dryer got very hot (309 Deg) the thermal fuse on the side of the internal rear duct housing will also shut off the dryer and it will not start.
If a dryer is not working at all that's not good! But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet. It may be something very simple like a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator, in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time, also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. The fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down
1. No power to the dryer Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.
2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever The dryer will not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.
Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.
Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.
3. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
4. Timer Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
**(((The most common issue here will be a defective Thermal fuse)))