Question about Amana ALG230RAW Gas Dryer

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Igniter heats but gas valve does not open. should the flame sensor close or open to enable valve. could the drum over heat sensor (clickson?) keep it from opening.

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Hi, If you have a gas dryerigniter heats but gas valve does not open - 2_bing.gif.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

Gas Dryer2_bing.gif not Working Gas Dryer2_bing.gif Not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

If your dryer2_bing.gif is electric2_bing.gif..
There could be a numbeigniter heats but gas valve does not open - 2_bing.gifrent problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

Troubleshooting2_bing.gif Electric2_bing.gif Dryer2_bing.gif won t Heat
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

Posted on May 28, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Drum rotates no heat,igniter dosent start


While the drum is rotating you should hear the CLICK associated with the gas valve assembly powering up to give out a blast of heat. If ya don't hear no click check the duct fuse. Right next to the control thermostat. If it is blown it kills the circuit to the gas valve assembly. If that fuse is good and the control is also good, then check the flame sensor for continuity, If it is open then the ignitor won't glow. The ignitor must glow and change in resistance then the flame sensor must open up and kill power to the ignitor so that power will be shifted to them coils on the gas valve.

Sep 03, 2011 | Maytag MDG2706A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer starts, but does not heat up. Igniter ignites, but no heat. Gas to rest of house is operable.


Hello,
Thier are 2 possible things causing it not to heat.

1) The flame sensor is bad..if the igniter glows BUT does not go off it will be the FLAME SERSOR that is the problem

2) the coils that open the gas valve are defective..If the igniter DOES go off but no flame it will be the gas valve coils

while i dont know what brand you have their are fairly unuvesal parts for the coils or flame sensor

Part#'s
GAS VALVE COILS 279834

FLAME SENSOR THAT FITS ON RIGHT OF BURNER TUBE WE4X448

FLAME SENSOR THAT FITS ON LEFT OF BURNER TUBE 338906

GENE

Aug 28, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

The Hi and Lo gas valve coils do they work in tandem ? Does the Lo stays on all the time ? Ruy ...


Their is 2 coil hosing but one of them has 3 wires and 2 coils inside it. The ignitor does 2 jobs, it lights the fire and acts as a thermocouple through the holding coil. If the flame does not ignite after the sensor detects the heat from it and shuts down then once the ignitor cools down the gas valve is shut down even if power is going to the gas valve. When the temp drops below 105f in the drum the control closes contacts inside allowing power to be supplied to the gas assembly. The ignitor and flame sensor along with the booster holding and secondary coils are all energized at once but the solenoids won't open the valve because the ignitor is hogging the power. The power supplied to it runs through the flame sensor. When the temp inside the sensor reaches a point the bi-metal inside tripped the power to the ignitor and the power gets diverted over to the secondary coil. Thr flame stays on till the temp inside the drum reaches 160f at which time the control thermostat opens circuit to the gas assembly and power is shut down. The drum continues to tumble and when the temp drops once agin below 105 the process is repeated and another blast of heat is shot into the dryer. So what goes wrong? Faulty flame sensor sticking/open, cracked ignitor, old coils that work intermittently or not at all when hot but work again when cooled.themobilian_2866.jpgthemobilian_2865.jpg themobilian_2868.jpgMore here.

Aug 21, 2011 | Whirlpool GGW9878P Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a 7yo Kenmore Elite gas dryer w/no heat. I tested all the possible culprits with my ohmmeter. I found the ignitor was not glowing so I replaced it. Now it glows but I still have no heat


The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.

Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.

The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.

Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.

Jun 17, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have an Amana Dryer Model # LGD20AW and when the dryer is first turned on the glow plug will heat up and ignite the gas but as the dry cycle continues the glow plug will heat up but no flame will ignite...


The glow coil or glow bar heats up and a sensor on the side reacts to the heat and then sends a signal to a gas valve.(solenoid valve) When the gas doesn't ignite when the coil is glowing... here are some reasons. 1. The sensor on the side of the burner assembly isn't working or sending power to the valve. 2. The valve is getting power but not opening. 3. The ignitor is not glowing hot enough to activate the flame sensor. Usually it is the sensor or the igniter not the valve.
Tom

Aug 10, 2010 | Amana Dryers

1 Answer

I have an 80 series kenmore gas dryer, will not heat, is it the starter? where can i get one, is it an easy fix? don


it could be the glowbar that ignites the gas,or it could be the thermal fuse in the dryer vent housing,the radiant sensor on the burner tube box that detects the flame and keeps the gas valve open,or the gas valve boost and secondary coils on the gas valve are open or weak and can't keep the valve open any longer,you need to remove the front cover and top cover to remove the drum to check any or all of these components

Jun 17, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Gas maytag dryer not heating up


check the thermal fuse in the dryer vent duct to be open,then if not the flame eye" radiant sensor" or the high-limit thermostat both on the burner tube if the sensor doesn't see(sense) a flame the gas valve will stay shut,then check the gas valve coils,both the BOOST and SECONDARY coil valves on the gas valve body as these can open up and not gas into the burner

May 04, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MCG8000AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My drying is blow cold air intead of hot to dry the clothes . what can the problem be


Components:

Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.
Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.
When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter.
Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.
Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up.
The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.

Operation:

At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.
(NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced.
The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.

Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.

Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner.
Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.
Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change.
With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out).
So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open.
It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.

Feb 20, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Gas dryer works, but does not heat


Hello there:
here is a discriptive way of trouble shooting the dryer and it lists the common components that will normally fail if the element has not failed first
Gas Dryer Diagnosticsgasdryerguts.gifThis picture shows the main parts of a gas dryer's burner systemthat can fail. Understanding each component and it's failure mode canreally help diagnose a problem with a gas dryer.
Ignitor failure: The drum turns but the igniter doesn't glow, thereis no clacking sound as the gas valves open and there is no flameignition sound.
Radiant Sensor failure: The drum turns but the igniter doesn't glow,there is no clacking sound as the gas valves open and there is no flameignition sound.
Gas Valve Solenoid failure: The drum turns and the igniter glows andgets turned off but there is no clacking sound as the gas valves openand there is no flame ignition sound.
And another component failure to be aware of, but that's not shown here, is the operating thermostat:
Operating Thermostat failure: The drum turns but the igniter doesn'tglow, the gas valves don't open (there is no clacking sound) and thereis no flame ignition sound.
And here's a picture of other components to ohm out if you're getting no heating at all:
ldrm-gas-burner.jpg

Nov 21, 2009 | Hotpoint Dryers

1 Answer

My gas dryer only work for 10 seconds when i jump out the therm-o-disc is series


Paul,
In its' normal state the flame sensor is in the "open" position. It's the path of least resistance in the circuit right now, but as the igniter glows brighter the sensor picks that up and eventually "closes". Now where's the electricity gonna go? It then goes to (and through) the "booster" and "holding" coils on the gas valve opening up main gas to the burner assy.
After the flame fires up the igniter shuts off. Now it's the job of the thermostats to regulate the temperature of the air inside the drum. When the temp is reached (on high heat it's normally around 125 degrees F) the t'stat opens and the power to the valve is shut off. Then when the t'stat cools back down, it closes which sends power back to the heater circuit and through the "path of least resistance" again... yep, you guessed it, the igniter and the flame sensor. The whole process repeats itself 'til the end of the cycle.

I noticed in your heading you were gonna mention jumping something out... what was that all about?

SG
afe1156.jpg

May 01, 2009 | Dryers

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