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No heat but the element is good at lest the coil is not broken

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  • Dryers Master
  • 7,482 Answers

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back of the machine and try to
locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find
the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove
the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it
is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing
the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace
the thermostat/thermistor. DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause
a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. I will include these two web
sites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck, Hope this helps
Please do not forget to rate me, Thank you

Posted on May 27, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Dryer won't come on. Wire block burned. Wires test good. Heating coil lookes burned


A good heating element should have continuity. When the heating element breaks, there is no continuity between the heater terminals. But sometimes, the broken ends of the heating element can make contact with the metal heater housing (from vibration) and draw a large current, causing the symptoms you have described.

To confirm a "short" between the heating element and the heater housing, check for continuity between the housing and each heater terminal. (The shorted part of the heating element is usually welded to the housing.) Occasionally, the short will not be welded, but a visual inspection will verify (welding scars and black soot) that a short has occurred, intermittantly.

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Your heating coil is broken. IMHO. If it was working you would not get a voltage reading. Element is shorted to frame. Power flows through both wires the element is connected to. If the circuit is not interrupted their is no reading on a single line. You have an open heater element. Disconnect power from the machine. Remove the wires from the element and check continuity between the 2 terminals (no reading element no good). Check continuity between each terminal to chassis (should not get an ohms reading) If you get an ohms reading the element is shorted to the heater chamber. Sometimes an element will droop and touch when heated. You can sometimes free up the welded wire and reposition it. that is rare though.

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