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Greg Dew Posted on May 27, 2010
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No heat but the element is good at lest the coil is not broken

1 Answer

Curtis Sewell

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  • Dryers Master 7,482 Answers
  • Posted on May 27, 2010
Curtis Sewell
Dryers Master
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Joined: Sep 25, 2009
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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back of the machine and try to
locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find
the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove
the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it
is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing
the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace
the thermostat/thermistor. DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause
a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. I will include these two web
sites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck, Hope this helps
Please do not forget to rate me, Thank you

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Related Questions:

1helpful
1answer

Dryer won't come on. Wire block burned. Wires test good. Heating coil lookes burned

A good heating element should have continuity. When the heating element breaks, there is no continuity between the heater terminals. But sometimes, the broken ends of the heating element can make contact with the metal heater housing (from vibration) and draw a large current, causing the symptoms you have described.

To confirm a "short" between the heating element and the heater housing, check for continuity between the housing and each heater terminal. (The shorted part of the heating element is usually welded to the housing.) Occasionally, the short will not be welded, but a visual inspection will verify (welding scars and black soot) that a short has occurred, intermittantly.

Replace the terminal block, heater, damaged internal wiring, and possibly the thermal fuse, thermostats, and power cord.

Good luck
Mar 06, 2017 • Dryers
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1answer

My dryer is not heating at all where to I find the thermostat and coils? Thank You

Most dryer heating elements are incased in a metal type box behind the dryer. It looks like the size of a shoe box for the most part, the heating element or coiled wires are inside that box, most of the time the coil wire breaks and will not get red/hot and will not heat at all. I've replace the heating element on my dryer, wasn't that hard to find and remove and examine that the coil was broken not making contact any more.
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Most electric furnaces use time delay relays called sequencers to turn the heating elements on and off. If your thermostat is calling for heat, the sequencer coil should get 24 volts and the contacts will close in a pre-determined order bringing on each element individually. If the sequencer coil is getting 24 volts and the elements are not heating, then one of the following issues is going on. 1. The sequencer contacts are not closing because it is defective. Therefore the heating element is never getting proper voltage (usually 208/230V) 2. The heating element may be broken. 3. The high temperature limit switch for the element may be open, not allowing proper voltage to the element, or 4. The element is not getting proper voltage because of a blown fuse, tripped breaker, or broken wire. I hope this helps!!!
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No heat- broken or burnt element wire ( a coiled spring like wire element) May have broken of where it screws on to the circuit.Check for burn marks inside the housing. No variable speed- faulty/burned switch or riostat.
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Your heating coil is broken. IMHO. If it was working you would not get a voltage reading. Element is shorted to frame. Power flows through both wires the element is connected to. If the circuit is not interrupted their is no reading on a single line. You have an open heater element. Disconnect power from the machine. Remove the wires from the element and check continuity between the 2 terminals (no reading element no good). Check continuity between each terminal to chassis (should not get an ohms reading) If you get an ohms reading the element is shorted to the heater chamber. Sometimes an element will droop and touch when heated. You can sometimes free up the welded wire and reposition it. that is rare though.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Oct 11, 2012 • Dryers
2helpful
3answers

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Most likely you have a burnt element....A good handy man could replace the element fairly easily.. Cost of a new element about $50-$75
0helpful
1answer

Everything functions fine but low heat and takes 1-1/2 hr to dry

THE HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT IS ON YOUR HEAT ELEMENT CANISTER. THEN YOU SHOULD HAVE ONLY ONE OTHER AND THAT WOULD BE YOUR CYCLING THERMOSTAT. CHECK TO SEE IF A COIL IS BROKEN ON THE HEAT ELEMENT ITSELF.
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1answer

No heat from dryer

It is most likely the heating element. If you would like to access the element, just take the 3 screws out of the bottom of the kick plate below the door and you will see the element in a canister. There should be a screw on the side of the canister that holds the element in. Remove this screw and pull wires off the element, after you have noted where the wires to the element are properly placed. Then proceed to pull the element straight out of the canister. Inspect the wire coils for breakage, If you find a broken coil wire, replace the element. If you do not find a broken coil wire then proceed to checking the high limit cut off thermals located on the side of the canister for continuity. If you find one of the thermals not to have continuity, replace both thermals. They come in a package together as one kit. Hope this helps. Dave
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ckd timer there are contacts internally for element operation lest likely switch on motor
Jul 01, 2008 • Dryers
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