Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer

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Hi I have a whirpool washer that is 7 years old, I replaced the agitators and the lid switch several months ago. However, today with a small load the water drained but it did not spin, making a loud clicking noise. What could this be? sounds like a coupler not engaging. Whirlpool model number LSR8133HQQ

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The most common cause of the symptoms you describe is a broken motor coupling. Whirlpool manufactured top loaders use a motor coupling in place of a drive belt and are known as "direct-drive" systems. No agitation, or spinning, associated with a grinding noise are the usual symptoms. The washer should still have the ability to drain, however.

The following link explains how to access the coupler and replace it, if necessary:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling

The part number is included with the instructions I provided. Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I listed also include helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you in locating and properly identifying the parts you need. If you do not wish to order parts on line, use the part numbers I provided and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. The coupler is usually sold as part of their in-store inventory. The average cost of a motor coupling is only about $15.

If you have any questions, or if the symptoms I describe do not match the problem you are having, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on May 27, 2010

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This problem is commonly attributed to a loose or broken lid switch.

If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

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If you have any questions about this repair, or if you need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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