Question about Craftsman 17.5 hp 42 in. Deck Lawn Tractor - CA Model

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Bent front chassis bracket

The "bracket susp. chassis front" (part no.169835) got bent. is it a difficult job to replace it?

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Take the battery out and turn the mower on its side, from there it is a very easy replacement of any part in the undercarriage, have not done this particular part but all that is needed for any repair is common hand tools and a moderate amount of mechanical ability, on a scale of 1-10 this would be a 4 with 10 being the most difficult.

Posted on May 27, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Where is the access point for the top part of a rear shock absorber on a 1995 Chevrolet Camaro ???


Hey Dane ,I looked it up at autozone library it is hidden in the frame ,go to AZ site and log in to use library and then to repair guides then to chassis susp. then to rear susp. click on it twice an they give you a full diagram of it ,. if this helps please let me know by checking box below (helpful)

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A piece of dowel (broomstick) cut to the width of the oven and placed as a fulcrum in the hinges, gentle pressure when almost closed can bend it back into position, but that wont last.
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Where are the bushings for the low control arm on 1996 chevy tahoe 4wd located


If you are replaceing both sides (drivers & passangers (recomended)) you will need 4 bushes in total 2 front susp rear & 2 front susp front. There is 2 bushes both sides (front of front & rear of front) The lower control arms go from the chassis to the lower ball joints (just behind tyres at bottom) will be a big job!

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You will need to grind the rivets out and remove the old mount, you can use one of 3 methods to attach a replacement.
1. Drill out the holes, get captive nuts welded into the chassis rail and use high tensile bolts to attach the mount.
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I own a GE WBSR3140 Washer and I'm getting a banging sound whenever the machine is a wash or rinse cycle but not on spin. How do I get at the problem ? Remove panel from the front or the top?


First of all, you do remove the a panel from the front.

On the inside floor of the machine, there were two "L" brackets with a hole for bolts, There were also two brackets on the bottom of the tub with similar holes. One pair was on the left bottom side and the other was on the bottom right.

It appeared that a bolt or some type of "dampening" connector was meant to go through to these holes. But there were no broken parts lying inside.That was my first "guess" for their purpose.

The left side (as facing the machine) "L" floor brackets and a tub bracket had been " bent" in such a way that that when the tub shook enough, the two brackets prevented the tub from moving too far. But not the pair on the right hand side. Go figure.

How it ever got this way or whether this was a "jury-rigged" solution at the factory (because they ran out of parts) is beyond me. Maybe the two brackets were meant to act as some form of "stop". But why were bent in such a fashion? And why only the ones on the left bottom side of the machine? I swear somebody bent them on purpose but that's me.

In any case, the tub had moved far enough that the bent tub bracket had slipped around the bent floor bracket. When ever the machine was on "wash" or "rinse" this "configuration" would bang against each other loudly. But it would not happen during the "spin" cycle.

I simply bent the two left hand side brackets back into a someone normal configuration (as with the bottom right floor and tub brackets) and put every thing back together. The banging sound was gone. However, you could still hear the brackets hitting each other on heavy loads. But it was not the "BOOM" I was getting before.

Eventually, the four rubber top corner "shock" springs will need replacing but at least things are quiet for the moment. But why or how the left bottom tob and floor brackets got so bent out of shape is beyond me. "Human intervention" or normal "wear and tear"?

Mark

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hi best advice is to look at how the mounting is secured to chassis and usually a steel bracket which securec to engine ? if so then i would support engine under neath with hydraulic trolly jack and block thenundo the chassis mounting bolts/nuts ? then just gently lift engine slightly enough to take weight off mounting ? then if you remove bolts from bracket to engine fixing so the mounting will remove complete with bracket and mounting block after raising engine again to ease removal then renew mount block to bracket but do not tighten bolts/nuts untill you have repositioned into place again on engine then resecure bracket to engine 1st this will leave a little movement on mount as you lower engine down again and locate bolt holes? hope this helps not too difficult diy iob just have a little patience

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Mitsubishi WD-52525 red light no picture or sounds, lamp has been replaced.


The hardest part is getting the chassis block out. But if youre mechanically inclined and follow the illustrations and label all the wires you unplug, its not that difficult a job. The soldering isnt very difficult as theyre just capacitors. The chassis is contained inside a metal container and has to be removed as a unit then opened up to get to the PWB PC board.

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