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Re: Pump plugged in to grounded receptacle trips the
If by "trips the breaker" you mean the GFI then you are leaking current to ground, GFI's trip when there is an imbalance between the current going to the motor on the HOT side and returning from the motor on the NEUTRAL side, if it is tripping the GFI it is likely the sign of a failing motor.
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it is a dead short in the wiring
if the plug is anything other than 12 volts -call an accredited electrician
just because it is a trailer doesn't mean that the voltage will not do serious damage top your health
If you're referring to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker tripping, a refrigerator should not be plugged into a GFCI circuit because of the sudden load it requires to start the compressor, etc when it kicks on. The GFCI breakers are meant to be very sensitive, and over time the sudden energy demands caused by a refrigerator can weaken the breaker's threshold, causing them to trip often. Try connecting the refrigerator to another circuit that isn't on a GFCI breaker. If there are no other circuits nearby, you may wish to replace the GFCI breaker with a standard breaker, and replace the receptacles with GFCI receptacles, except of course, the one the refrigerator is plugged into. Be sure and consult and use a qualified electrician for this. Hope this helps..
If you meant arch fault with ground fault then no, the two types interfere with each other and trip the breaker as one senses an arch and the other grounding.
If you meant ground fault breaker with a GFCI. receptacle, you only need one of the two, either GFCI. breaker or receptacle.
and for circuits, you can put up to 12 devices (i.e receptacle, light)assuming they consume 1 amp each. Anything over 12 amps or 80% of the rating on the breaker, it will trip/reset.
Or if your talking about wires on a breaker then no more than 2 wires recommended. Try adding a junction box outside the panel if your trying to add other branch circuits or tap off of a receptacle.
In California It is code to have a ground fault receptacle where ever water is, Bathrooms, kitchen, laundry ect. I have a older home that has 1ground fault for all receptacles located in the garage, so to update I have installed ground fault receptacles in all locations where water or dampness is present, even under the kitchen sink cabinets.
Let me explain how it works. Each 120V breaker has a black wire that leaves breaker box. The black wire is accompanied by a white neutral wire and a bare ground wire. These wires are sheathed in plastic, and altogether they make up a romex cable.
The cable leaves the circuit breaker box and travels to the first junction box. The junction box is a ceiling box that holds light or fan -or- a wall box containing switch or plug. As a general rule, the romex leaves the breaker box and travels all the
way to a junction box located right in the area where lights and plugs
are located. The romex does not stop at a junction boxes located in other room.
Inside the junction box, the romex splits and goes to the next junction box, and then to the next box, and the next.
So the plugs in one room are all connected together by a single romex cable that started back at the breaker box. And a single romex wire from the breaker box arrived at one of the junction boxes located in immediate vicinity of dead receptacle.
Here's what happened. A wire came loose somewhere between the breaker and the dead receptacles.
The loose wire is probably in a receptacle.
Here's what to do. 1) Breaker first: You can isolate the suspect breaker by identifying all other breakers. Then tighten screw on suspect breaker. Look for white wire and ground wire associated with the romex cable that connects to breaker >> tighten those screws on neutral busbar. Look for burning around suspect breaker. Is there a burning smell indicating breaker is bad?
2) Receptacles Next. Use ordinary tester. Test each receptacle. Receptacle has two rectangular prong holes and one round hole located below other two. The round hole is the ground. Breaker is turned on. Test each rectangular hole to ground. You have to test both prongs to ground.
The loose wire is right there in the vicinity of dead receptacles.
Test one receptacle and then move to next receptacle. At some point the tester will light up. Now click suspect circuit breaker to see if that receptacle is on breaker. Test receptacle with breaker off and breaker on. If that receptacle is on the suspect breaker, then a loose wire is inside that receptacle box >> or inside the next box. Many times, the wires are pushed into 'quick-connects' located on back of receptacle ... wires get loose ... you need a small screwdrive to release quick-connect, and then wrap wire around screw -or- replace receptacle
If none of receptacles show electricity, then loose wire is inside a switch box, or it is inside a ceiling box located in same general area. Check your switches first. Look for quick-connects, or signs of burning. Look for loose wire nut. Plug light into dead receptacle. Pull switch out with wires attaches. Power is on. Move switch around to see if dead receptacles shows electricity. Move to next switch. The loose wire is there somewhere.
Finally the ceiling box. Take down light and see if there is a loose wire inside. Look for signs of heat or burning.
GFCI receptacles are polarized and connecting them correctly is critical. The hot wire should be black, blue, red, etc. The neutral should be white or natural gray. The ground should be green (if equipped).
Also, it's common to have other receptacles in a kitchen wired "downstream" of a GFCI so that if the GFCI trips or there is an issue with another non GFCI outlet, you're still protected.
Check all outlets in the kitchen and be sure they are wired correctly and in good shape. Unplug everything while you test. If the GFCI still trips, start looking for loose neutrals or bad ground wiring (or no ground) at the other receptacles since you said you already checked the breaker box.
A coffee maker can be a cuplrit that causes a GFCI to trip since it is a heating device and uses water, which can make them more susceptible to electrical problems. Check the microwave too (if equipped).
The most likely causes in their order of probability are: 1) water somewhere in the circuit causing the hot wire to ground; 2) a legitimate trip caused by a defect in a device plugged into the circuit; and 3) a defective GFCI breaker. In the first case, wait until it has been dry for about a week and see if it trips. In the second case, make sure there is nothing plugged into the circuit and try resetting. In the third case go ahead and put the regular breaker in, then put a GFCI outlet into the first box downstream from the breaker. If installed according to the directions, that outlet should protect all of the outlets downstream.