Question about Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer
CHeck the impeller underneath the machine is not blokced by a sock, clothes peg or dust bunnies - reach underneath and you will feel a 6 bladed fan about the size of a bathplug. This is what drives the pump that empties the machine. Give it a little spin with your fingers and it should start to empty out again
Posted on May 27, 2010
Check the drain hose (water outlet) to see that it is not kinked to stop up the flow.
Posted on May 26, 2010
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Click on washing machines above, (below FIXYA) on this site, type in your model number & search. You will get a shortlist; click on your model, below the page u will get Manual/Guides. Click on the blue, you have your manual on line.
And dont forget to rate me on this great site. You have to replace your inlet water valves. Its simple.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
I have the same washer, WT-R801. Does the machine stop all together when the spin cycle arrives?, if so check the pump on the drain. Mine was burnt out. Its available for $61.00 delivered from Adelaide. Steve.
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
SOURCE: washing machine problem
it could be that the carbon brushes need changing on the motor. you can drain the machine if there is water in it by disconnecting the outflow pipe from the u-bend under the sink and lowering it into a bucket. This will empty any water in the machine (most of it any way), at the same time you can check for blockages in the outflow pipe while it is disconnected. If the machine is at least five years old then the carbon brushes are easy enough to change yourself, they are seated each side of the motor which will be on top of the machine. Simply carfully disconnect the electric cables on each carbon brush, gently slide them out and replace them by carefully sliding the new ones back into place and then connecting the electric cables again. The carbon brushes for hotpoints were universal for the older models 5 years old or more, but the newer version have cleverly put the motors on the bottom and are hard if not impossible to get to. You will then need to call out an engineer. Always make sure that you disconnet from the mains before touching anything within the machine, and if you are not confident in what you are doing the don't do it, call an engineer.
Posted on Oct 23, 2008
To access the pump filter, remove lower plastic panel at front of washer, there you will see the filter, unscrew filter cover anti clockwise, remove and clean filter.
You will probably find that whatever was causing the clicking noise is something in the filter.
If you can't see anything in it , then have a look inside the pump housing before you replace filter.
Plz rate my solution .
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
there is always a little water left in the drum assembly when done pumping. however it is usually well below the level of the clothes basket/drum so that there is none contacting the clothes when at rest.
if you can actually visibly see water within the clothes basket/drum when the cycle is complete, then check below.
have you lengthened the drain hose beyond the standard length to reach to your taller than normal sewer/drain inlet??? if so then you're getting more water returning to the unit when the pump shuts off and if the extra hose is long enough then theres enough water returning to your tub so that the basket sits in water at rest..
if so you'll need to install a check valve to keep the additional water from going backwards into your unit. some of these units have one built into the drain hose where it connects to the pump.. i tried looking yours up via the model # listed on the 1st page but got nowhere with that number.
you could also have a restriction in your pump or drain assembly that may be slowing things down some.. can't be of more help without proper model # though..
hope this helps,
best of luck,
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
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