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I just figured out how to take off the back of the DY-012. You know about the 2 screws on the top, in the 'handle' area. But there is a third screw on the bottom. It is hidden by a small button-sized piece of plastic used to cover the hole the screw is in. This piece of plastic has a pin-hole that you can stick a pin (haha) or a paper clip in, to pop it out. After the 3 screws are out, you pull the back away from the front starting from the bottom, and when you have loosened both sides of the back, you pull down to remove it from the top. You should also see a small **** at the top. Stick a very thin screwdriver or knife in it to help unclip the back from the top. Once you have access to the inside, you just have to figure out the order in which to remove screws to have access to the harder-to-get-to screws. I must say, the plastic cleans VERY easily! My fan was covered with nicotine which accumulated extra dust and dirt, and it now looks brand new!
i don't think it's going to be a motor issue, these fans have a round plastic gear in them that commonly go bad. remove the bottom cover by removing (5) phillips head screws, then unwind the power cord from the cord holder rembering the path, then remove the (3) large phillips screws, then just slide the base of the fan off and the gear is right there. if the gear is bad, you'll know cause there'll be pieces of plastic everywhere and the teeth on the gear will be rounded off. have fun. oh, for the part, i suggest contacting lasko at www.laskoproducts.com
On the back of the unit under the model/serial # tag there are 2 screws, if you press your finger along the tag you can fill the indentations.
You will need a #5 star screw driver.
Using a plastic tool (I use a plastic cake knife) or you can buy a proper opening tool, carefully begin sliding it along the seam starting at the card slot. Keep in mind that the back cover overlaps the front cover. The front cover has small buttons every so often to secure it closed so a little pressure is needed, don't pry. Be gentle around the switch.
There are 2 wires that you need to unplug after it is separated, With the back up, open it slightly and use tweezers and unplug the speaker terminal, don't pull on the wire. To get to the battery wire you need to remove 4 screws that hold the circuit board to the back cover. Just remember the LCD connection ribbon wire is very fragile and Static can damage the board so always touch yourself to ground before working inside. good luck.
There is a push in type flat plastic switch trim cover over the metal housing surrounding the switch.. You must unplug the cord, gently pry around the trim cover and you will find a screw, an irregular one underneath holding the switch in place. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN when reinstalling this one or you will crack the switch.
Once removed the rear housing will come off. Then you will see several new philips round head screws holding the front housing onto the vac.With all screws removed the housing should open easily but there may be dirty film inside holding the halves together. The fan shaft will unscrew revealing the fan, a spacer behind and perhaps two different spacer washers. Install the new fan hand tight, washers and spacers in same order... Good effort figuring this one out. Please post back with results.
You will have to replace the blower motor resistor. It is located right beside the blower motor, look to the right of motor next to the rubber hose on the side of the blower motor,it will have a four wire connector to it the wire colors are OG/BK,LB/OG,RD/OG,and BK, it will be held in by 2 screws.You will have to remove the battery and battery tray to access it.
You have a bad blower motor resistor. To replace it remove the lower dash panel cover below the glove box and it will mount in the heater housing with 2 screws. It will have a 4 wire connector with the wire colors being OG/BK,LG/WH, YE/RD, BK
if you run your vac to long after the fan is broke it will cause excessive vibration and the bearings can go out. in almost all cases i replace the fan only. most of the time if you have a bad bearing the vac will make a grinding noise. you can also tell a bad bearing by grabbing the belt pulley on the end of the fan and pull up and down if it moves alot then your bearing is also bad. you can get the bearings separate witout ordering the armature assy. when talking of replacing any of these parts besides the fan i would advise you to take your vac to your local repairman. working on motor parts of a kirby can get pretty involved. to replace the fan first take the housing off where your belt and brushroll are. you should then see 5 screws on the front of your kirby. remove all 5 screws. then remove the handle. at the very bottom of your handle you will see a piece that allows you to move the handle, on the back side of this you need to push in with your thumb and the handle should pull off. then you should see a plastic piece directly below that snaps into the top housing. remove the 2 screws from this. one where the cord boot is and one above your power drive neutral/drive lever. then under this plastic piece is 2 more screws on your top housing. when these are out your housing should pull off. if not then remove the bottom plastic housing of your outer bag. then go back and look at the front again and you will find since removing the top housing you have exposed 2 more screws in the front fan cover housing that also need to come out. after this pry this housing off and you should be looking directly at the fan. grab fan with pliers in one hand and with the other hand apply pliers to the silver belt pulley and turn this piece clockwise. it should unscrew and then you can pull your bad fan off and attach the new one. i hope this helps and remember its not as hard as i probably made it sound. good luck!!!!
Whew!! Finally figured this one out! How to Clean Seville Classics Tower Fan Approx Time: 1.5 hrs
Tools: Long Phillips head screw driver Metal Skewer or very thin/sturdy screw driver Empty egg carton (to keep track to the hundreds of screws) Leatherman or small pliers Toothbrush Vacuum
Make sure the fan is unplugged!
1.Filp fan over and remove the 2 larger screws that hold the pedestal together (keep screws organized) 2.Remove the 4 inner screws that connect to the base 3.Remove base 4.Unscrew the 6 screws that hold the lower rear cover 5.Remove lower rear cover 6.Unscrew the 4 screws around the underside of the fan case (in a half circle) ---Very Important in cleaning--- 7.Replace pedestal! Yes all 6 screws (4) smaller inner screws and (2) larger screws 8.Stand fan upright (lower rear base cover removed) 9.At top of control panel (buttons) locate a small circular hole (top of fan) towards the rear handle 10.Take the skewer or thin/sturdy screw driver and stick it in the whole 11.Gently but firmly pop up the control panel. (it took some patience, working around the panel but it popped up. 12.Remove (4) screws and remove the secondary plate 13.Remove (3) larger screws toward the front of the fan and (4) smaller screws around the edge ---Leave the screws in the metal plate in place--- 14.Remove the 3rd cover ---Now the fun part!!--- 15.To remove the metal screen push the plastic front in slightly at the edge with the open plastic vents (this side doesn't have tabs). There is a bent edge that is held in place by the plastic screen on this side. 16.Continue to pry the screen backwards and push edge with tabs (side of plastic front with no vents) towards the front of the fan. There are 3 metal tabs that slide in the plastic front at that edge. ---The front plastic vent face should be left in place, all of the control wires run through it--- 17.With metal screen off, you can use your vacuum (highly recommended) while you scrape the "turbine" with the toothbrush. There are a lot little turbine edges and they get quite dirty. Vacuum is a must!! In fact, I had mine running the entire time. ---The plastic turbine does not come off and must be cleaned in place--- 18.Putting it back together!!! The metal screen tabs might have bent a little when you pried it off, I used a leatherman (pliers) to bend them straight. With patience you slide the tabs back into the plastic slots (working from the bottom up is best), slowly start to place the screen back around the fan. When you get to the side with the bent edge, you must push the plastic vent face inward (bottom up is easiest) in order to snap the screen around the edge. 19.Now, while not letting the plastic front slip from the metal screen, grab the plastic plate and slide it on top (make sure to get the metal rod back into the rubber gasket) and push down. This will hold the metal screen in place. 20.Put all the screws back in place and snap the control panel back on. 21.Remove the bottom pedestal in order to put the rear plate back on. 22.Replace the pedestal.
This is definately a fan made by engineers with disposable income that can afford to buy a new fan every year instead of cleaning it on a regular basis! I have had my fan for the past 4 years and always leave my windows open. After sometime, the performance when down, barely eeked out a breeze and shot dust bunnies on to my carpet. Often it would overheat and shut off automatically.
After all this time, I finally figured out how to clean it and boy, was I suprised how much dirt and junk this fan collects.
Hope this helps all the frustrated tower fan owners!!