Question about KitchenAid KSB5 Professional Stainless Steel Work Top Blender

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Rubber drive wheel disintegrated. How do we replace?

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The rubber wheel is known as the "coupler." To clarify: the coupler is a black, cylindrical rubber piece that juts out of the top of the motor base and you set the pitcher on top of it.

This part can be replaced through a Kitchenaid certified service center, where they can provide the part for you. It is a low-cost repair.

A listing of certified Kitchenaid locations may be found here:

http://caservice.kitchenaid.com/

Also, if you are interested in self repair, you may order the part and view do-it-yourself instructions here:

http://www.mendingshed.com/kacoupling.html

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • QuietRiot Jul 08, 2009

    The rubber wheel is known as the "coupler." To clarify: the coupler is a black, cylindrical rubber piece that juts out of the top of the motor base and you set the pitcher on top of it.

    This part can be replaced through a Kitchenaid certified service center, where they can provide the part for you. It is a low-cost repair.

    A listing of certified Kitchenaid locations may be found here:

    http://caservice.kitchenaid.com/

    Also, if you are interested in self repair, you may order the part and view do-it-yourself instructions here:

    http://www.mendingshed.com/kacoupling.ht...

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Like you, I am all for repairing and keeping the world free of blenders that only need one part replaced. The rubber coupling was easily ordered online, the challenge I later found was to remove it without losing my sanity. After messing up the side grill of the blender pretty good, I realized there is an opening on the motor casing that allows access to a "gear" that is firmly attached to the axle where our little friend will hopefully screw on and restore the contraption to a working state. In order for you to see (which I must warn you, it's not much of a view) through the grill you will need a flashlight or book light. Towards the top of the aforementioned gear (not the rubber part) there is a groove in which a flat screwdriver can easily fit immobilizing the axle and allowing you to easily unscrew it. Oh, but wait, I forgot this is the faulty part and it will spin without the slightest torque on the axle thus never loosening or getting it unscrewed. My solution to this problem was to surgically remove as much rubber as possible to allow me to attach my vise grip to the nut and finally put this thing out of its misery. Using the same procedure of inserting the screwdriver to immobilize the axle I was able to screw the new part and voila the blender is fixed!!!!

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These instructions disassemble an electrical appliance. You should have some technical/mechanical/electrical experience to attempt this and you do so at your own risk.

See exploded diagram : http://www.kenwoodservice.co.uk/uk-delonghi/exploded/exploded-KF8150M.pdf

This is not a very good diagram to show the disassembly, however, it will at least help me to identify the parts.

Prise out the center insert in the drive wheel (#15 on the diagram) on the top of the base unit (I used a paring knife and worked my way around the circumference to work it loose).

Remove the four rubber feet (#19) from the base by pulling them out.

Undo the 4 phillips head screws in the holes where the feet were.

Remove the base and carefully position it along-side the body of the blender.

Prise off the silver switch knob (#13) - it slides straight off the switch shaft and I used a screw driver to carefully lever it off, working from each side a little at a time.

Undo the drive wheel on the top of the drive shaft by holding the fan on the bottom of the drive shaft and turning the drive wheel CLOCKWISE.

Undo and remove the two screws holding the switch support (#11) and cut the tie wrap that secures the blue cable to this support.

Undo the four screws that secure the motor assembly to the casing and remove the screws and their shake-proof washers.

Remove the internal components as a single assembly. Tilt/angle the motor assembly towards the switch support until the top of the shaft clears the rubber boot in the top and then the whole lot comes out easily.

To replace the switch (Part No. HS1144 - #10 on the diagram):

Carefully lever the white gear wheel off the switch shaft.

Undo the two small screws that hold the dial gear wheel cover in place on the switch support.

Remove the cover and the small gear wheel (noting which way around the gear wheel goes the two ends of the shaft are slightly different).

Undo the nut on the switch shaft that that secures the switch to the support (nut is 14mm diameter and needs a thin wall socket. I used long nose pliers to remove and re-install it).

The wires connect by simple push fit into their slots and the angled brass blades inside the slots grab the wire and lock it in place. To withdraw each wire, use a very thin screw driver (or similar) to depress the brass blades inside the slot. This enables the wire to be withdrawn as you depress the blade.

Re-assembly is the opposite sequence.

When putting the dial back together, remember to check that the dial reading lines up with the switch position (adjust the gears by resetting the teeth if the alignment is not correct.


Here’s the really interesting thing. After I replaced the switch, I pulled the old one apart. IT HAD FAILED BECAUSE THE CONTACTS HAD BURNT OUT. They had obviously been arcing and had completely burnt through. There were burnt off tails of the contacts lying in the switch housing and there was evidence of burning (carbon deposits) inside the switch. In short – the switch is not up to the job and will fail. Poor design and a latent defect.

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