Question about JBL PSW-D110 Speaker

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C6 Polarity? How can you tell the polarity of the C6 replacement capacitor?  There is no polarity legend on the PCB board... The cap I have that was sent to me from JBL is a 10uF 100v Bi-polar electrolytic cap. I believe the longest stem is the + but I don't know which will correspond on the board... Any suggestions... Info?

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  • CALSunbelt Apr 07, 2008

    Thanks, your input is much appreciated!

  • CALSunbelt Apr 07, 2008

    Thank you so much! I truly appreciate your help.

    Regards,

    Dayle

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Hi CALSunbelt

There is no polarity to be conscious of when you are using a BiPolar cap. They can be used in either direction.

regards
Graeme

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

  • Graeme Ross
    Graeme Ross Apr 07, 2008

    no worries mate:)

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1 Answer

What is the size of the JBL PSW-D110 fuse?


The fuse is a 250volt 1.25 amp slow blo.
First thing I would do is check C6 to see if it is bulge or blown - regardless replace it with a 10ufd 100volt Non-polarity capacitor. If the fuse blows again unplug the blue wires from the transformer and plug in unit to an outlet. If fuse does not blow then problem is on PC board. I have a service manual for this item. Probable causes on PC board are Filter Caps, Bridge rectifier (DBA), Amplifier module, or fragments of C6 even causing shorts on board if it had blown.

I have bought C6 from MCM Electronics for under .50 cents but you have to put shrink tube on one lead and bend it back along the body and solder both leads in the board.

Good luck

Jun 24, 2011 | JBL PSW-D110 Speaker

Tip

Using Proper Speaker Polarity


Sound system speakers have standard polarity which is indicated either with a "+" or a "-", or with Red and Black colors near the speaker terminals. This same polarity marking is also found on the sound system amplifier section. Most speaker cable has a polarity indication; either color coded, or a physical difference in the wires. Reversed polarity results an obvious decrease in bass, and a hollow sound in the mid range frequencies. If your speaker cable has no obvious polarity indication, you can check the polarity as follows; connect a 9V battery to each speaker cable for no more than about a second; long enough to see the woofer cone move. When the + battery terminal is connected to the + speaker lead, the woofer cone will move out. When you have this situation, label the positive speaker lead, either with tape, or by tying that wire in a simple knot. Make sure both cables are checked.

on Oct 06, 2010 | Speakers & Subwoofers

Tip

KEF PSW 2500 Relay buzzing and audio output buzz


Have just repaired a similar problem with a KEF 2500 - relay was chattering at 50 Hz rate, buzz in speaker output.

Problem was caused by overheated / dried out Electrolytic filter cap (C52 - 47uF 63V) on the relay coil supply feed.
The overheating is caused by adjacent power supply dropping resistors which run very hot due poor design of power supply.

A service manual for a similar model is available at following link, refer to power supply section:-
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/35375/kef_psw2000.html

To replace,
1) remove chassis from speaker cabinet (8 screws), disconnect red/black speaker wires from main PCB spade connectors.
2) Remove 4 screws attaching main pcb heatsink assembly from face panel - lift assembly from faceplate (a bit messy , much heartsink compound between mounting faces)
3) unplug the AC 3 pin connections adjacent to the large capacitors and the 3pin connector on end of pcb (near C52), then roll assembly over the top of the audio sub-board to access underside of pcb.
4) solder connections to C52 is accessible at edge of board without further dis-assembly.
Take extreme care replacing C52, as the circuit board is of poor quality, (usual domestic electronics quality) being single sided copper without plated through holes.
The board is already heat damaged by heat buildup from power supply resistors, so the track will most likely lift and crack when disturbed- to counter this problem link the +ve capacitor pigtail to an adjacent solder pad on the same track.
Assembly is reverse of above, take care to preserve/ensure minimum disturbance of heatsink compound.

A user tip- don't leave unit switched on when not in use- heat buildup will eventualy cause it to fail due dried out electrolytic capacitors.
Poor power supply design is the main source of the standing heat buildup.

on Apr 28, 2010 | KEF Audio PSW 2500 Subwoofer

1 Answer

Speaker will not turn on. Is there any trouble shooting I can do.


There is a fuse inside (250 volt 2.5amp slowblow)

Check and replace C6 with a 10ufd 100volt non polarized capacitor.

I have a service manual if you can not find one!

Jan 13, 2011 | JBL PSW-D110 Speaker

2 Answers

Polk Audio PSW202 subwoofer. Replaced burnt fuse but blows the next fuse after connecting to amplifier and powering on. What else can I do?


Fuse probably went bad because either the large filer capacitors at the edge of the PCB went bad and or the final output IC mounted on the heatsink(15 pin) fried. Check the capacitors and all the semiconductor components on the board for burn marks or corrosion. You have to remove the heat sink clamp from in front of the output IC to adequately visualize its condition. In fact you might have to remove the large aluminum heatsink attached to the chassis to get a good view of the IC. If it or the heat sink clamp show signs of thermal burns you need to replace it. The IC is a TS TDA7294 mono audio amp available at Mouser Electronics. Replace the 35V 4700mF caps with 50V 4700mF caps. You will only have enough space on the top of the PCB for one of the larger caps. I mounted the other on the circuit side of the board. Note the polarity of the original caps and respect it in their replacements. The fuse is a 5 X 20 medium speed slow blow 250V 2.0A glass fuse.

Aug 17, 2010 | Polk Audio PSW202 Subwoofer

4 Answers

I have a Kef PSW 2500 that emits a loud buzz when on. I pulled the amp, but I'm not sure if its the speaker or amp. What should I be looking for the speaker outputs from the AMP? How can I tell if its a...


Have just repaired a similar problem with a KEF 2500 - relay was chattering at 50 Hz rate, buzz in speaker output.

Problem was caused by overheated / dried out Electrolytic filter cap (C52 - 47uF 63V) on the relay coil supply feed.
The overheating is caused by adjacent power supply dropping resistors which run very hot due poor design of power supply.

A service manual for a similar model is available at following link, refer to power supply section:-
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/35375/kef_psw2000.html

To replace,
1) remove chassis from speaker cabinet (8 screws), disconnect red/black speaker wires from main PCB spade connectors.
2) Remove 4 screws attaching main pcb heatsink assembly from face panel - lift assembly from faceplate (a bit messy , much heartsink compound between mounting faces)
3) unplug the AC 3 pin connections adjacent to the large capacitors and the 3pin connector on end of pcb (near C52), then roll assembly over the top of the audio sub-board to access underside of pcb.
4) solder connections to C52 is accessible at edge of board without further dis-assembly.
Take extreme care replacing C52, as the circuit board is of poor quality, (usual domestic electronics quality) being single sided copper without plated through holes.
The board is already heat damaged by heat buildup from power supply resistors, so the track will most likely lift and crack when disturbed- to counter this problem link the +ve capacitor pigtail to an adjacent solder pad on the same track.
Assembly is reverse of above, take care to preserve/ensure minimum disturbance of heatsink compound.

Nov 29, 2009 | KEF Audio PSW 2500 Subwoofer

4 Answers

My JBL subwoofer buzzes very loudly when plugged in - not connected to receiver. Can this be fixed?


Yes it's probably just an Electrolytic capacitor.
If your any good with a soldering iron you could even do it yourself.
If you do have a go replace the big ones first.

Nov 27, 2009 | JBL PB12 Subwoofer

1 Answer

Cerwin Vega D9-E Speakers. Bad crossovers...I think. Fixable?


Crossovers are made with wire coils, electrolytic capacitors and resistors.
Capacitors may get leaky or blown with time and heavy use, and are quite easy to find, just be sure to use the same polarity, capacity and voltage rating and to respect the polarity if it's a polarized capacitor.
There may also be a burnt out resistor or a coil. Resistors can be obtained and replaced (same resistance and wattage) and wire coils can be rewound (same amount of wire of the same wire gauge).

Another possibility is a partially damaged wire on the speaker itself. This is the braided curl wire that goes from the speaker membrane to the cable connection lugs on the speaker armature, and it may be damaged at the membrane side or the lug side.
It usually happens from what you call "overcooking".
To repair this it will require some soldering skills, but it's a bit hard to solder that type of wire, as it tends to oxydize and is difficult to clean prior to soldering, it may be difficult to access it, depending on the speaker structure(an alternative to this is to replace the speaker itself).

There may be some physical damage to the membranes if the sound is present but is of a bad quality (a slightly damaged membrane may be repaired using some rubber glue, but it will never return the speaker to the original condition).

These are just some suggestions, hope they can help you get closer to a solution.

regards

3rq8 (triarcuate)

Jul 23, 2009 | Cerwin Vega CLS-12 Main / Stereo Speaker

2 Answers

M-Audio BX5a Speaker Problem


Not sure i can help with the led problem but i just fixed a hissing problem with one of my BX5a monitors. It developed a hiss when on (both tweeter and bass) and a very loud thump when switched off. I found a slightly swollen power filter capacitor on the internal board. They are the two biggest black capacitors, labelled as 25v 6800uf. Only one of these was bulging. The tops of these should be totally flat. The indented X on top of the caps make any bulge easy to spot. Worth opening it up and having a quick look. I could only find 35v 6800uf caps at my local electronics store but they did the job ($3 each). I swapped both out and it's now working great. An easy DIY fix, just be sure to always have the power cord unplugged before you put your hands anywhere near the guts of the thing. Hope it helps.

Sep 17, 2008 | M-Audio BX5a Speaker

1 Answer

JBL sub PSW-D110 hums, and the fuse is blown


Try replacing parts listed below first. Less that $10.00

C6 kit as an substitute and the parts are as follows:

The part is available

The part is called: CAP RAD 10uF 100V Bi Polar. BU120/BU80

The Part # is: UVP2A100MPD

The price is $2.70 each, plus shipping and handling (For U.S. orders only).

The part is called: RES CF 20K OHM 1/2W For C6 kit

The Part # is: 293-20K

The price is $1.98 each, plus shipping and handling (For U.S. orders only).

The part is called: RES mf 47R OHM 1/4W For C6 kit USE -RC

The Part # is: 271-47

The price is $1.98 each, plus shipping and handling (For U.S. orders only).

The part is called: CAP MCER AX 100NF 50V For C6 kit

The Part # is: 75-1C10X7R104K050B

The price is $1.90 each, plus shipping and handling (For U.S. orders only).

The part is called: Instructions, Kit (C6 repair) Gen brand

The Part # is: C6KIT INST

The price is $2.01 each, plus shipping and handling (For U.S. orders only).

If you are not in the U.S. please advise where you are so the correct information can be sent to you.

Please add tax if you live in New York (8.25%), New Jersey (7%), Connecticut (6%), California (8.25%), Florida (6%), Arizona (8.10%), North Carolina (7%) & Georgia (7%).

You can order this item by calling us at 800-422-8027, 800-336-4525 and 800-553-3332

Please allow 7-10 business days for shipping

Jun 12, 2008 | JBL PB10 Subwoofer

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