Question about Kitchen Ranges
We bought a maytag sealed burner gas range-used. It is a power boost.
seemed to work fine, then in the middle of the night the timer went off, would shut it off, and a few minutes later it would sound again, with the message -F1- flashing. It didn't matter what I tried it continued, so I ended up unplugging it, any ideas
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: F1 Error Code on MayTag range
migs, on a Maytag the F1 indicates there is a problem with the touch-pad or control itself. Usually, it's the touch pad. Try killing the power to the range and remove the touch pad ribbon from the control board. Clean it with an eraser. Power back up and see if the error comes back. If it does, remove the ribbon cable again and power up with-out it attached. If the same error still returns, then I would suspect the control board itself. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Jun 05, 2007
Seems Maytags have never fixed this problem. I have a 1993 and have had to replace the membrane (touchpad) every 4 yrs. If you can do it yourself, actually easy, you will save $$ for repairman, and can order part from Repair Clinic.com.
Only trick is carefully opening up the stove top, having someone hold it up for you while you disconnect the membrane...
Posted on Nov 13, 2007
SOURCE: F1-6 Fault Code
This code is in responce to a fault/failure in the lower keypad assembly. It is possible the keypad was bumped.
Maytag Gemini fault codes.
Fault code Suspect area Fault code Suspect area
F0 - 0 None
F1 - 1 Runaway cook upper oven
F1 - 2 Runaway cook lower oven
F1 - 3 Runaway clean upper oven
F1 - 4 Runaway clean lower oven
F1 - 5 Keypad cancel upper
F1 - 6 Keypad cancel lower
F1 - 7 Keypad disconnected
F1 - 8 Keypad shorted
F1 - 9 Slave
Posted on Dec 30, 2007
SOURCE: F1 message on Maytag range
This is what the code means.
F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (usually the touch pad)* F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)
Good Luck and Please Rate
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
This will sound crazy but I had to work through it on my own stove a few years ago. The ignitor (glow tube) was getting hot but the oven would not owrk. When investigating the problem I found that the gas valve will only open when the ignitor pulls a specific amperage or draw of current. As the ignitor ages it pu;;s a reduced draw of current. This causes you to be fooled by the glow nut no gas. Replace your ignitor and your oven will begin to work again!
You can get ignitors easily online by doing a search for "appliance parts" and then entering the model number of your stove. Look for ignitor and you will be good to go. Also check out a few different sites as the prices of the parts can vary quite a bit.
Posted on Nov 20, 2009
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