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A Pentax Espio 135M Multi AF Auto Focus 35mm Compact Camera with a SMC Pentax 38mm to 135mm Zoom Len

Hello,
The lens protection device of a camera I recently purchased does not open fully. It only opens about 1/2-way. The 4 little flaps are opened by 2 pins and they don't seem to be moving all the way across when the camera is turned on. Would I have to open it further to find what the problem is? If so, do you have an instruction procedure for this?
Thank You,
Kene

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  • afriken Apr 06, 2008

    Are there User's Manuals available on the Web?
    ps my name is Ken , not Kene!

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I sounds like your shutter is stinking dont remove or losen the screws there are manuals on the web. find out what type a camera it is then go to the retail on the web they should have support or manuals for you

Posted on Apr 09, 2008

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My Nikon Nikkor 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S for Digital SLR lens does not seem to auto focus well. Sometimes the lens will focus and unfocus and refocus constinely. Is this normal??


You did not say which camera body you are using, but you probably have three different auto-focus modes on you camera. You might be using the wrong one.

The modes are as follows:
AF-A Mode: Camera automatically selects single-servo autofocus when AF-A subject is stationary, continuous-servo autofocus when subject is moving. Shutter can only be released if camera is able to focus. AF-S Mode: For stationary subjects. Focus locks when shutter-release button AF-S is pressed halfway. Shutter can only be released when in-focus indicator is displayed.
AF-C Mode: For moving subjects. Camera focuses continuously while AF-C shutter-release button is pressed halfway. Photographs can be taken even when in-focus indicator is not displayed.

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In 1985 I bought a Chinon camera with a Vivitar 70-210mm Macro Zoom lens and a Seikanon 28-100mm Auto Macro zoom lens. The camera body got smashed and I like to buy a new digital camera body that these...


Hi Sherry. Chinon cameras used the Pentax K mount, so you can choose from Pentax and Ricoh models, mainly. There are also a few Miranda bodies knocking around (a budget own-brand badge used by the Dixons Store Group in the UK) but ignore them unless free. <br /><br />With a little patience and a polite rquest, you should be able to get a free replacement 35mm body from one of your local FreeCycle or Freegle groups. I've had plenty of complete Nikon and Canon outfits from there but Olympus, Minolta and Pentax are more scarce, but if you are prepared to be flexible you can end up with a good complete Canon FD mount (manual focus) outfit, complete with excellent lenses (useless on later AF Canons) for zilch. It's usually worth investing in a one-off foam light seal replacement and CLA (clean, lubricate, adjust) service though to ensure that these almost bulletproof cameras continue to give long service. <br /><br />If you wish to upgrade to digital, then current Pentax K models *might* accept your lenses as the physical mount has not changed, but there will be no communication of information between the lens and body and auto-stop down of the aperture will not work. The doubt regarding fit is that the rear elements of your non-Pentax lenses might interfere with the operation of the SLR mirror at certain focal length and focus combinations so you'd need to ask if you can try your lenses on the new body before buying. Finally, the image sensor is smaller than on your 35mm Chinon, so the images will appear to be cropped. The effect is as if you have a 1.5x teleconverter fitted so your 70-210 will seem like a 105-315 and your 28-100 will seem like a 32-150mm lens. Apertures will remain unaffected though.<br /><br />In short, if you really do wish to continue to use your present lenses then you would be far better sticking with 35mm SLR K-mount bodies.<br /><br />I hope that I have been of assistance and that you take a moment to rate my reply.<br /><br /><br /> <!-- from fixya rte -->

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Cannot auto focus


It sounds like the circuit board flex has gone bad, It folds back and forth when you zoom the lens, And needs to be replaced by a repair shop and readjusted. Tony

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My Nikon 17-35 F2.8 zoom won't Auto focus or show F stop


The F/stop isn't supposed to change when you focus. Depending on the camera, you change the f/stop by either turning the aperture ring on the lens or turning a command dial on the camera body.

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I need a manual for AF 35-70mm f2.8 D zoom nikkor - no idea how to use this lens.


i was not able to find a manual - this review may help http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/3570.htm
The lens consists of
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1) Zoom - this is by push pull - so you push the lens out to wide angle 2) To switch to manual focus - will need to be done on the camera and then you can use the front control ring to focus - 4) also you can use the button to switch to macro mode - BUT only with the Zoom at 35mm - lens fully extended 3) You have an aperture range of 2.8 - 22 this varies the amount of light allowed into the lens - 2.8 is the most light - F4 to F5.6 to F8 - each change halfs the light allowed in - so changing from F4 to F5.6 half the light

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Lens will not auto focus any more.


Hi there!

I experienced the exact same problem with my 100-300mm lens and I was never able to get it to work correctly again. In fact, attempting to use it further seemed to exacerbate the problem.

The further you zoom, the wider the aperture opens allowing more light for the camera to focus properly. If the aperture mechanism is damaged, the auto-focus process may not work as it should; which would explain why the auto-focus feature works only when at 18mm.

Regardless, I strongly recommend you discontinue use of the lens until a professional technician can examine the lens and figure out what's going on. I'm sure you can contact the manufacturer to open a support case or you can find a camera store that offers repair services.

I hope this helps!

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hi i am sagha a camera repairer from mumbai, i have gone through such problems much oftenly,in your case i think it is the internal problem with the flex board inside the lens which is multitwisted on metal plate after prolonged use becomes stiff & brittle and creates hairline cracks on the pcb which in turn breaks the tiny tracks & leads to malfunction at 135 mm.

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