THE GASKET INSIDE THE DOOR (FRONT LOADING) HAS 3 HOLES FOR DRAINAGE. THERE IS A LOW SPOT IN FRONT OF THE HOLES AND WATER COLLECTS CAUSING MILDEW. I HAVE BEGUN WIPING THE WATER AWAY WITH PAPER TOWELS BUT WONDERED IF ANYONE ELSE HAS THE SAME PROBLEM AND WHAT THEY HAVE DONE TO RESOLE IT. THANKS
This is a poor design. Mine became so stained that I replaced it. Unfortunatly the replacement part is for a newer model and the retrofit is a little different than the original. The seal didn't let the door close all the way and I have to push against it to get it to lock. I am hoping the gasket will loosen up over time. Even with that the drain is a water collector. I spray mine with a mildew product after washes, or leave the door open so it will dry out, and I occasionally wipe it with a rag. I hope Bosch changes their design.
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I have patched the holes until the new parts came in and customers have said it hasn't leaked. I used clear 100% silicone. This has lasted for several weeks on some occassions. Clean it good then let it dry for at least 24 hours. If you need to replace it here is a link that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/washerdoorseal.html
front gasket/door boot.... replacement isn't easy but do-able. first remove three screws that hold front lower panel on and remove panel (where lint filter is). then remove 3 screws that hold on top panel (screws located at rear of top of washer), next remove 3 screws on top front of washer, then remove 4 screws that secure the contol panel. you must remove the washer door at this point, just a few screws and pin hold the door on. now, remove control panel by gently pulling the top away from the washer, it's held by a few plastic snaps. then, remove three screws that secure front panel of washer. now you're ready to remove the old boot/gasket. first look toward lower right side of gasket and pull the spring and remove wire that secures front of gasket. next... at about 3 o'clock on the gasket you'll find a longer screw (about 3 inches) that secures the rear of the gasket. loosen this screw until you can remove the gasket. remove the water inlet and hose from the boot/gasket.... now remove gasket from washer. you're ready to install new boot/gasket. find the small triangle on the new gasket and line this up w/the triangel at the top of wash tub. begin working the gasket onto the lip of tub, make sure to align the triangle and water outlets of the gasket w/the triangle and outlets of the washer tub. once back of gasket is on install the rear wire holder and tighten screw to former tightness. now work front of gasket onto the lip of washer, install spring wire to secure the front. place water inlet and hose into respective holes on the gasket. put front panel back on, put door on, put control panel on, put top on... and wash. like i said, not easy but do-able... i completed it in 1.5 hrs w/no instruction.
Check inside the door on the bellows gasket to make sure the inlet area (normally at the 10 o'clock position) is properly positioned around the water inlet, sometimes these work themselves off the inlet nozzle and can casue a leak when the washer is filling up.
Also, carefully run your hand around the bellows gasket to see if you can find any small holes that cold be letting water leak out. You'll need a flashlight to make this easier. It is hardly ever the hinges that causes a leak since the hinges are mounted outside of the door seal gasket (bellows gasket) and aren't ever exposed to the water.
try using liquid wash detergents placed in a plastic ball inside the drum, instead of using powder placed in the soap drawer, because the residue of powder left in the drawer allows bacteria to build up, thats what causes the 'black deposit' you speak of, its very difficult to remove
Leaking water usually comes from hoses or connections. Be sure that water appearing to be a leak isn't drain water from a backed-up standpipe (see HERE for information on clearing clogged drains).
NOTE: To prevent serious flood damage that can occur if washing machine supply hoses burst, be sure to install "no-burst" stainless-steel mesh hoses and lever-type shutoff valves, as shown in the illustration. With these, you can easily turn off the levers for both hot and cold water between wash days.
1) Check the fittings where hoses connect to the faucets and to the back of the washing machine. Also look for worn or leaky hoses. Tighten couplings or hose clamps if necessary, or replace hoses altogether (be sure to turn the water off before removing hoses and drain them into a bucket after disconnecting them).
2) Determine whether machine is over-sudsing during wash loads-- this can cause the entire washing machine to overflow. Reduce suds by pouring a mixture of 1/2 cup of white vinegar and 1 quart water into the washer. Then switch to less detergent or use a low-sudsing variety.
3) Call a repairperson. The machine may have a faulty basket gasket or tub seal and bearing that must be replaced.