Ok i got tha ADF-272 12'' Sub. 1200 watts i bought a box that is for 2 12''s and wen i left he said to take tha ADF-272 w/ me so i didnt turn it down and it dont work One dude told me that it was under used and tha voice coil is messed up and sombody Else told me that it mite be Stuck that i would have to put Alot of wattage through it to get it to work... if the voice coil is messed up could i fix it ?? and could it be stuck or was he just messin w/ me??
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Re: I Got a Question
Ok well to anser the first one yes it can be re coned and i would not do it my self and to anser the secend one yes it can be froze and the reson for that is some one put to big of a amp on it and blew it causeing the woofer to freeze but if u want to have it reconed let me no and i will give u a number of a freind of mine
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this bandpass enclosure is rated peak power at 1200 watts . what this means is that each subwoofer in the is peaked at 600watts to make 1200 watts . what your looking for is to power up the subs with rms continuous wattage . you need an amp that will put out 400 to 500 rms a channel to run this sub enclosure at 800 to 1000 watts rms to keep the speaker from blowing
this amp will give you
1 channel @ 4 ohm x1 350 watts
1 channel @ 2 ohm x1 900 wats
1 channel @ 1 ohm x1 1800 watts
you would have extra power for better subs with more power later but you get 900 watts which when connected right would mean 450 watts per sub be perfect for you .
i sell this for $320.99 in my store can shipp any where in usa
to contact me firstname.lastname@example.org
Nice sub, i have 2 308d4s in my car. Okay this sub is a dual coil 2 ohm. so to get best bang for your buck you'll want a 2 channel amp and bridge it. Your sub is 400 watts RMS, So you'll want an amp that has the same rating. I'd recommend the pioneer GM-5400t. Then wire your voice coils in parallel, and bridge your amp, you'll get 380 watts RMS, which is perfect for this sub. If you have questions on wiring or anything you can just ask. thanks, i hope this helps
Does it smell funny?Smell around the top of the magnet and see if it smells like burnt plastic.If it does then the voice coils are burnt.Push down in the center of the sub if it dont move at all or has a grind the the voice coils are burnt up.Look at the lead going from the wire hook ups to the speaker cone are the intact?If not thats your problem.
The amp and sub combo should work fine the subs can really take a crapload of power-i have a neighbor thats running 1200 watts rms to each sub in his caddy and OMG- its sick. Your amp should be pushing around 800 watts rms(continous) to the sub which should do very well-my concern with your setup is that the sub is designed for a vented box- you can use any box u want but im just suggesting that you use a good solid vented box with these subs- my other concern with your setup is that having only the single sub if its a dual coil 4ohm + 4ohm coils then you might run into trouble if you dont have it set up right-by that meaning to get all the power handling capability of the sub you would want to use both of the coils right? well to do that you have to either wire the coils in series or wire the coils in parallel right? In series the coils will yield an 8 ohm load to the amp and youll only get about 400 watts from the amp bridged into that 8 ohm load- on the other side of that if you wire the coils in parallel then the cols yield a 2 ohm load and that could cause the amplifier to become unstable and fry its little guts. All of this is assuming that the amp is made to run bridged at 4 ohms- if it is 2 ohm stable in bridged mode than you have nothing to worry about. Now the popping noise- that sounds like its coming from the amp somehow and just feeding through to the sub-like you ive never heard a sub popping unless its bottoming out and you say its not so its gotta be the amp id say-if it were me id check all power connections especially the ground for the amp . It could be that on the heavy bass notes that your amp is not getting enough juice -throw a 3.5 farad capacitor on the power line and see if that helps your system out-
To run 2 subs, the amp would be a little small. The subs will run OK, they just won't be very loud.
It's usually better to compare and match up the RMS power rather than the peak power. The Sony XS-L10P5B sub has a peak power handling figure of 1200 watts, but the RMS is 300 watts. The Sony XM-ZZR3301 monoblock amp puts out 1100 watts peak, but only 330 watts RMS. They would work great together, 1 sub, 1 amp. But if you add another sub, each one would only be getting about 165 watts. They'd work OK, just not as loud as they could be.
huge shared common space slot loaded box (size depends on sub 10", 12" 15" you need to clarify that please) the amp specs on earthquakes site say the phd5000 is rated at a max output of 5k watts at 1 ohm 3k watts at 2 ohm so, with 3 dvc 2 ohm subs you only have 3 options of which only 2 will be a usable solution:
1. 3- 2ohm dvc series at sub parralel at amp = about 1.33 ohms at the amplifier this is the best option to get the most power to the subs as each sub will produce a 4 ohm load then wire each one to the amp the amp sees 3 4 ohm parralel loads which = 1.33 ohm so based on the amp specs you would be close to 1200 watts per sub.
2. 3- 2ohm dvc wired in series at sub and all 3 subs series wired together very difficult to wireand will give you a 12 ohm load which is next to no power at all (not a viable solution)
3. 2- 2ohm dvc parralel wired to each other and then at amp the amp sees a 1 ohm load and makes 5k watts max but you can only (REREAD THAT LINE! ONLY USE 2 SUBS IN THIS WAY) WHICH GIVES THE MOST POWER BUT ONLY USES 2 SUBS
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=1&woofer_imp=4 HERE IS HOW YOU HOOK UP 1 SPEAKER TO 1 CHANNELM DO THE SAM E TO THE OTHER CHANNEL. MAKE SURE AMP IS IN MONO MODE,YOU DONT WANT TO PLAY UR SUBS IN STEREO.AS FAR AS THE BOX DEPENDS ON VEHICLE AND HOW MUCN SPACE YOU HAVE .TELL WAT MODEL CAR AND ILL ET BACK TO YOU. I NEED A FIXYA RATING PLEASE