Question about Black & Decker ProFinish X750 Iron
The cord connection inside the iron is faulty. The red light will not come on and it's slipped inside the rear housing. The screws of course are tamper-proof. It may be a simple reconnection issue but I can't tell.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cord short ccircuit
The back comes straight off. All you need to do is take a small screwdriver and pry against the bottom metal piece, then it should start to come off. Make sure you take it off carefully so as not to break anything. Pry evenly all around the plastic end cap until it comes off.
After that, you can replace the cord. It's connected via two crimp caps. Easy to replace. Just make SURE you purchase a cord rated for an iron.. DO NOT clip the plug end from an extension cord or similar and use it. The iron uses 16 gauge HEATER CORD. Easy to find, but you could melt your power cord and possibly cause a fire if you don't replace it with the correct type.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
if the screws have a design on top , like 2 half pyramids, then they are dealer screws, so that the consumer cannot open the appliance.....if they are like introverted star shape, then these are called torx screws, can be removed by ordinary torx-bit screw driver, available at most hardware stores....
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
SOURCE: On my Black & Decker
I wish I could tell you where the screw is, but I can tell you this- it's going to be tricky, as you know.
Black & Decker makes these units as unserviceable as they can, probably because they don't want any lawsuits from people tampering with 220 live, nasty volts. Sometimes they use special tools, and manufacturing processes that makes it virtually impossible to disassemble a unit without damage- clearly indicating attempted repairs, and destroying the iron in the process, making it unusable.
The short and simple of it is that they're made as throwaways, and even if you can get to the potentiometer, you're going to find a broken support or switch piece most likely, and won't be able to get a replacement part (you can try to google parts for irons, but will only get the whole iron).
Wish I had better news, but I've been through this years ago, and ended up breaking the iron in the process of getting it open, and I doubt it's gotten any easier over the years.
My advice is to see if you can, hopefully, get it open as far as you can, and see if you can somehow free the jammed arm. Otherwise, buy a good used or new one.
Wish I had better news, but good luck.
Posted on Nov 07, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 03, 2014 | Irons
Jun 08, 2014 | Euro-Pro Irons
Mar 31, 2011 | Irons
Mar 17, 2010 | Euro-Pro Shark GI490 Iron
Aug 12, 2009 | Euro-Pro Shark GI490 Iron
Jul 10, 2009 | Euro-Pro Shark GI490 Iron
Nov 18, 2008 | Euro-Pro Shark GI490 Iron
Mar 17, 2008 | Sunbeam 4214 Iron
Jun 12, 2007 | Sunbeam 4214 Iron
158 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: