Adjust angle of band saw blade to align with fence

On my old unit, there are 4 allen head bolts that secure the saw to the housing. If you slack them back you should be able to set the alignment so the blade is exactly at right angles to the fence. Just use a framing square to align. When you turn the housing for ripping cuts it should be parallel to the fence.
No more dog tracking!

Are you referring to the table top or rip fence alignment? The blade itself is not aligned. We adjust the table to parallel with blade and the rip fence should toe away from blade 0.01mm over the length of the rip fence to prevent binding.

Is this a band saw? If so, more tension on the blade may help and you may need to feed your work piece slower.

Hello, I think that the problem you are having is called "drift" . each blade will cut different than the last. The way I was taught to cure this goes as follows.
-take fence off off table(or just move over)
-get a good square piece of material appx. 1x3 and mark a straight line about 1/2" from edge the full length of the board.
-with out the fence cut the board along the line appx. 1/2 the length.
-shut off saw WITH board in it.
-use a angle finder along the edge of the board, set angle finder
-remove board and put the fence back on.
-now slide the angle finder up to the fence, you should see that the angle is different than the fence (this is the DRIFT ), adjust the fence to the angle finder( I know that the smaller saws usalley don't have this adjustment ) you will have to find a way i.e. shim etc.

This is a very common problem but once you get the idea it is a easy fix
Remember: A guy taught me and I taught you, pass it along thats what we do.LOL
Hope it helped.
The Shop Dog

I dont believe there are pictures, but what you need to do is move the fence to the blade, there are 2 10MM bolts on the backside that you need to loosen and then you can move the fence to square with the blade. Snug them down and move the fence and recheck let me know if you have anymore problems

Check and see if one of the guides is out of alignment or if the blade is worn. Either one can cause the problem since you already checked the tension and guides. If the guides are worn they won't hold the blade true.

You should be able to adjust the fence but every model is different so I probably cannot tell you exactly how. My Biesemeyer fence has 2 set screws on front guide of the fence for parallel adjustment to the blade (this fence is a single piece fence). I had a Sears contractor saw that had 2 bolts on the top of the fence that needed to be loosened, the fence moved parallel, and the bolts tightened again (the Sears fence was a bolt together fence). Whatever fence you have I would think the adjustment would be on the front part of the fence. I would remove the fence (the fence only, not the guides) from your table saw and take a close look at it for any adjustment screws (the Biesemeyer set screws are somewhat hidden) . If the fence bolts together you will probably need to loosen the bolts to do the alignment. There is a quick check you can make to verify the problem is the fence not being parallel to the blade because your problem could also be caused by a bent saw blade arbor (the saw blade would wobble as it turns)

ø Lock your fence down and measure from the front of the blade to the fence and from the back of the blade to the fence. These measurements should be within 1/32” (ideally is should be zero).
ø If the fence passes the test above, you can see if your saw blade shaft is bent by sliding the fence very near the blade, locking the fence down, and rotation the blade by hand (unplug the saw first). If the blade rubs on the fence as it rotates then you could have a bent arbor, a bad arbor bearing, or a bent blade.

User manual for adjusting your saw here.
When you set it up, make sure you check for square to the table, square to the fence, and check square for toe-in or at a 45 deg. angle across the blade from the corner where fence meets table, like you would check a radial arm saw. (hold a framing square with one leg against line of fence/table and other leg against blade and inclined 45 to both table and fence. Make sure all three are dead square.
I never found any way to compensate for the play in the blade itself. It seems like the manufacturing tolerances are a little too loose.

You may need a heavier plated blade. You may simply need a different saw. Those Dewalts are great workhorses, and I love the design, but it's my experience that when you're trying to miter hardwoods of any substantial size there's a little bit of drift in the cut as the blade comes through the wood.
You can try cutting at a slower rate.
I've found that makitas are a little more solid through the cut, though I don't like the general ergonomics as much...
Kind of a pain, isn't it?
Well, good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Yes you can adjust the angle of the fence. There are two adjusters at the front of the fence where it meets the fence rail. Adjusting these will pivot the fence either slightly left or slightly right.

There is a basc video on youtube my daughter made to show you how to align yourfence to the saw blade.

when i use my table saw, i use clamps on the fence, i dont rely on the one built in.