I have spent $$$ on new hinges for my KitchenAid double oven doors over the past few years, but the springs always fail after 6 months or so. Recently I decided on an elegantly simple solution. K&J Magnetics (kjmagnetics.com) carries a line of 1/8" thick, countersunk Neodymium magnets that are perfect. I purchased a pair of their # RE22CS-N magnets (3/4" dia X 1/8" thick), attached them to the upper corners of the door just outside the gasket area with some #8 flathead screws, and viola! They do a great job of closing the door while still allowing a proper gasket seal. Lighter or heavier doors might require a different magnet, but K&J offers types with varying pull-in forces, so you should find one to match.
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We have similar Jen Air double oven and with the same problem but only on the lower oven. The doors are interchangeable and the top door fits fine but the lower door will not close completely at the top. It does turn out the light but has never cooked properly. I checked with several appliance repair shops and the hinges are not adjustable, but since one door closes and our other doesn't it is not a hinge problem, just a defective design.
We let this go too long and are out of warranty so I doubt Jennair is going to do anything. I hope someone post a solution but it is clearly not problem with the henges but with the receptacle they go into.
I have spent $$$ on new hinges for my KitchenAid double oven doors over the past few years, but they always fail after 6 months or so. Recently I decided on an elegantly simple solution. K&J Magnetics (kjmagnetics.com) carries a line of 1/8" thick, countersunk Neodymium magnets that are perfect. I purchased a pair of their # RE22CS-N magnets (3/4" dia X 1/8" thick), attached them to the upper corners of the door just outside the gasket area with some #8 flathead screws, and viola! They do a great job of closing the door while still allowing a proper gasket seal. Lighter or heavier doors might require a different magnet, but K&J offers types with varying pull-in forces, so you should find one to match.
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On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
I had the same problem on my parents Kitchenaid KEMS378GWH0 oven, the door would only close enough to keep the light on. They propped a chair against it to cook. My father replaced the hinges and it worked for about a week. He noticed that pulling outward on the door at the very bottom edge often allowed it to close enough to use.
After completely dismantling the oven to get access to the brackets that the hinges slide into, we found it was not broken. We decided to expand on the only near solution we had and find a way to make the bottom of the door 'push out'. Our solution was very simple. Remove the small metal plate that covers the door insulation. This revealed that the insulation is a braided hollow rope that is held in by small clips that push through holes in the front of the oven. We threaded some small metal rods about 3/8 inch in diameter into the hollow insulation pushed the clips back in to re-attach the insulation, replaced the metal cover plate.