Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges
I have a Kenmore 362.7163891 range and I was cooking a roast and it was starting to smell good when the temp just started to slowly go down until it was no longer hot, and it has not worked since then (that was about 2-3 months ago). The broiler won't turn on either. I have lost the manual so I have no place to even start troubleshooting. I don't even know where anything is: the pilot light, ignighter, etc. If anyone can help It would greatly appreciated.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hotpoint Gas oven doesn't light
Sounds like the oven ignitor is weak. If everything else is working it must be a bad ignitor. These are usually easy to replace and can expect to pay $70-$100 for the part. Check to see if it glows when in bake mode first. If it does then replace the ignitor. You can look at the ignitor, when not on, if it is white-ish then it needs replace or if it doesn't have a full glow, can compare to broil ignitor, then it needs replaced. Let me know if you have further questions.
Posted on Oct 13, 2007
I had the same problem. I'm not a handyman. A repairman came out and had to replace the igniter. Had to order it from Europe, which took about 2 weeks. They get old and crack and don't work after a while, he said.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
If everything works on your range, but the oven, the most likely culprit is the igniter for the BAKE manifold. What is confusing me, though is the statement in your question where you say the "oven will light up, but never get hot". Yet, you say the oven does not ignite. Can you clarify this? In some ovens the BAKE and BROIL manifolds BOTH light when preheating, to reduce the warm up time. Once the desired temperature is reached the manifold not in use, will shut off.
In any case, on a gas range, the burners for the BAKE and BROIL manifolds use an electric glow bar type igniter. There's a separate igniter for EACH burner. When you make a bake or broil selection on your oven control, the respective igniter begins to glow. After the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve is opened, gas flows to the manifold, and voila! You have ignition. It can take as long as 90 seconds for the burner to ignite. What can happen over time, is the igniter becomes weak or fails. If the igniter becomes weak, it will still glow, but it never reaches the desired current potential to open the gas safety valve. The result: you end up with an igniter glowing with no ignition. And, if you're like me, you're left scratching your head wondering why the thing isn't working when it "looks" like it is. You can easily tell if the igniter is working by opening your oven door and selecting bake. Watch the oven pan in the bottom of the oven. You should see an orange glow coming from under it. It here's no glow at all, the igniter has probably failed. If there IS a glow, a current reading will tell if it's within tolerance. The following link explains more on these igniters and how to replace one:
The bake igniter is a common fail item as it gets used more frequently than the broil function. On your range both igniters are interchangeable. You can purchase replacements on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com, or appliancepartspros.com. The part number is WB2X9154. Shop all three sites for the best price.
I hope this helps you. If my assessment of your symptoms is wrong, or if you need further assistance, please let me know.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
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