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The unit runs for a few minutes and completely shuts down

Plug it in and turn the t-stat on. The fan inside operates as does the cooling components. After a few short minutes the unit shuts down (including the fan inside). Now it will get to temp but still it shuts down. I removed inside panel to veify fan operation and fan shut down. I have to turn the t-stat on and off a few times before it will re-start but the same episode occurs.Hmmmmmm ant thoughts?

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  • Anonymous Apr 07, 2008

    Hey Krazytech. There was a product info box I did fill out. It is a TUC 48 True. Curious, even if for some reason the comp. was cutting off should not the fan inside still be running. It should from just plugging it in? Also, where can one get a wiring diagram of such model. I was pleased to see that you had anwered the e-mail and I thank you...Tom...


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Without the model or make sound like a bad thermostat..check amps the the compressor and voltage... if the compressor is locking up or the thermostat cutting voltage to it..
Hope this helps

Posted on Apr 05, 2008

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Overheat protection shut the unit off after about twenty minutes.

compressor over heat is usually caused by the cooling fan next to it not running. Could be a wire came off since it is new or maybe something keeping the fan blades from turning. With out a brand and model I'm just guessing.

Apr 01, 2016 | Refrigerators

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Will not stop running

Are you referring to the compressor not shutting off down below or the evaporator fan inside the cooling area not shutting off? Evaporator fan always runs the compressor is controlled by the thermostat you could have a bad thermostat if the compressor never shuts off.

Mar 13, 2013 | True GDM-7 Beverage Cooler

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The fridge is not cooling and the freeze is working. There is ice on back of the refrigerator and frosting up in the freeze on the back panel. The fan is running. Model number is 363.9527710 side by side

This refrigerator was made by GE for Kenmore.
The frost in the back of the freezer is telling you that you have and automatic defrosting problem.
This can be caused by the defrost timer:
The defrost heating element:
or wiring.

Most of the time the defrost control stops advancing so the unit never defrosts. This is what causes the ice to build up. There are 2 tabs on the defrost control face. Find the defrost control and the rotate the dial with a flat blade until the compressor shuts off. This is the defrost cycle. You should notice that it may start making weird noises in the defrost cycle. Pop Bang... etc.

What you can do to get about 3 good days of use out of it is to unplug the unit.. direct a fan into the freezer compartment with the contents removed for just over 2 hours. (makes a water mess!)
After the 2 hour period, re-load freezer contents and return the unit to normal use. It will work fine for up to 3 days and then start freezing up again.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Apr 09, 2011 | Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Came home and all the ice has melted in icemaker and everything defrosted. Some cold air is blowing, but not much. A distinct clicking noise happens every few minutes. No power outage and we tried...

There is hope but not a great deal. That clicking sound you hear is the compressor (that part of the refrigerator that creates cold air) trying to start. It may be very hot. The reason usually is that there is dust clogging the coils at the base of the unit that must be cleaned out. There is a fan motor, usually mounted in the back of the fridge in the base next to the compressor. That fan may not be turning. If that is the case, the compressor will shut down to prevent overheating (a good thing).
Here is what you should do.
0 Pull out the fridge taking care not to damage the water line to the ice maker
1 Unplug it to let it cool down completely.
2 Put your salvageable food into camping coolers with bags of ice.
3 Purchase a long skinny refrigerator coil cleaning brush (I've seen these at Walmart)
4. Change into real work clothes. This will be a dirty job.
5 Remove the "grille" on the front of the fridge, at the base. Just pull it straight off.
6 Brush out the dust from the coils from the front bottom.
7 Replace the grill.
(Sorry. Your not done.)
8 When the fridge is out from the wall (you will want to sweep and mop what you see back there)
9 Remove the cardboard cover from the rear. (You will likely need 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch nut driver to remove hex head screws). Observe the cardboard covor as you will need to bend it to remove, after the screws holding it are off. (You may also want to wear gloves keep fiberglass from getting onto your skin.)
If you accidentally tear the cardboard, don't fret as it can usually be fixed with duct tape.
10 Now after all that,(which really doesn't take long). You will be looking at a black metal case with small pipes running out of it. That is the compressor.
You will also be looking at (depending on the design) a condenser fan.
11 If there is a Condenser Fan (usually on side-by-side refrigerators) then finding out if it works or not will be part of the diagnostic steps.
12 Plug in the fridge after it has cooled down completely (several hours) and see if the compressor comes on.
It may come on instantly. If it does check to see if the condenser fan blade is turning.
If it is not turning and the compressor starts to run. shut the Fridge down.
13 Check to see if there is an obstruction to it turning (such as a small toy). If there was an obstruction, plug the fridge back in and see if the fan now turnes. If it does, you have likely repaired the broken component.
14 If the fan blades does not turn, unplug the fridge again and replace the condenser fan motor.
You will need some tools to do this such as a 1/4" socket set, Wiring tools, Wire Stripper, Wire Nuts, Wire Ties. A handy man level of experience is required for replacement of this part.
15 When done replacing it (or removing the obstruction), make sure the back cardboard panel is reinstalled. It is vital to the efficient operation of the fridge.

16 Plug the fridge back in. Give it two hours of running time to see if it will start to cool. Probably will. If not, there could have been a refrigerant leak. If so, only a professional is licensed to do the work. If there is a refrigerant leak, then the repair is likely not recommended.
I hope this helps
Best Regards,

Dec 26, 2010 | Maytag MSD2454G Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

My True beer cool stopped cooling last night what should I do ?

That is a broad question. Lets do a checklist. When you plug the unit in the compressor behind the grill on the front should come on and the fan in front of the compressor should come on. The radiator in the compressor compartment needs to be clean from all dust and grease. Many times this is overlooked and can cause real problems by letting the compressor overheat. Now look inside and find the fan cover. It hangs from the inside top of the cooler. It should also be running. If either fan is not running the unit will not cool. Sometimes there is an obstruction, such as someone pushing a six pack up against the fan cover and pushing it into the fan. The fan down by the compressor is sometimes blocked by the cardboard shroud that is built around the fan. Also in a few cases rodents have gotten caught in that fan. If everything is running, you will have to look deeper into the compressor compartment. There is a screw in the front of the radiator that hold the compressor unit in the cooler. Unplug the unit from the wall. Remove that screw and slowly and carefully pull the compressor unit towards the front of the beer box. It will slide almost all the way out. You will see a coil of copper tubing at the back of the compressor that allows enough slack in the lines to slide this unit out. When you push this unit back in it helps to have someone behind the cooler to pull back on that coil as you push the unit back into the machine so it does not get crimped. With the compressor unit pulled out, plug it back in at the wall. If your compressor is running and you have proper amount of refrigerant, the small copper tube from the compressor to the radiator will get very hot, enough to burn your finger, after two or three minutes. After 10 minutes the larger copper line that is usually enclosed in a rubber sheathing should get cold. One way to know if you have a burned out compressor is to listen to the compressor and fans when you first plug into the power outlet. A bad compressor will usually try to start for 2 or 3 seconds and then click out. While it is trying to start the fan will slow down because the compressor is pulling way too many amps and is pulling power away from the fan until it clicks out again. If you can hear the compressor come on and run but it makes no heat to the radiator, you probably have a refrigerant leak. Your freon is gone or almost gone. If it was a slow leak you would usually notice that the cooler does not seem to cool like it once did. If it was working good and suddenly stopped cooling, the most likely problem is a bad compressor. Changing a compressor is usually beyond the average do it yourselfer because it requires welding the unit in place and gauges and a supply of refrigerant which is almost impossible to get without a liscense. Let me know what you find out.

Oct 13, 2010 | True TD-65-24 Commercial Refrigerator

1 Answer

I have GSS25SGP SS with no condenser fan operation. Components very hot, but unit is still cooling. Is this fan shut down a part of the defrost cycle or a fan motor failure? aerolog2

The fan has to run when the compressor is running. Usually does not run during defrost cycle. Could be bad fan motor, or the fan has lost power.

Jan 02, 2010 | GE GSS25SGPSS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Unit only cycles once when plugged in. Must disconnect from power for several minutes before it will run again.

Hi, I deal with units as this on a daily basis, but commercial units. If you say it cycles once when plugged in, and you have to unplug it for several min. to start it again, I would say that the thermostat is faulty. When you say several minutes, like 5 or much longer? If it is longer, the compressor could be getting hot and shutting off. And, when it is off for awhile, it cools down enough to cycle again. Do this for me. Pull the unit out after you unplug it, so you can get to the back and have room.There should be a vent or cover of some kind on lower back. Remove it. You will see a Fan motor with a small blade and a coil in front of it.On the coil at the back side, opposite the fan, see how dirty it is and clean it with a cleaning brush gently to prevent from mashing the fins. This will save stress on compressor and should be cleaned once a year.Plug the box in and the fan should run and the fat black pot, compressor should be running to.Time it to see how long it runs.If the motor doesn't run, or stops in the beginning of the cycle, it is faulty and must be replaced. This is the condenser fan motor. If everything just shuts down after it cycles and the box is cold, but will not start again at all for a long time, then it is the thermostat and must be replaced. This is what starts this box and cycles it. when it needs to start again, the t-stat bulb feels the temp of the evaporator coil and it will start on its own. You should be able to change this if you are inclined to do so. Make sure you check all other components as I have noted in that order for me. Let me no please. Best of Luck, Sincerely,

Nov 22, 2009 | Marvel 61AR Compact Refrigerator

2 Answers

My son turned our refrigerator up to setting 5. When i discovered it, i turned it down to setting 3. For the past three weeks, my refrigerator has been sopping wet inside. What do I do?

dry up any water inside the unit and then unplug for about 3 seconds and plug back in, this will reset the unit into a normal cooling cycle

Oct 03, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

ED2KVEXVL Whirlpool refridgerator - not cooling in refridgerator

Your freezer is not reaching the target temperature to produce ice - obviously your whole unit is not cooling properly - first thing to do is shut it off unplug it and remove the back panel from the freezer and look for ice buildup and overfrost on the evaporator - this is a classic symptom and will cause cooling problems - manually, using a hair dryer, melt the ice and frost from the evap until everything is cleared up and drips into the drain down the drip pan - once everything is cleared up put back the panel and turn everything on - allow a couple of hours for things to cool up - if it cools normally, then your problem relates to a faulty defrost system in which case you would need to have it serviced and replace one of the defrost timer components (control board, element, etc.)
Set one of these special refrigerator thermostats (not the mercury ones, but I use the round gauges) put one in freezer one in refrigerator and after couple of hours monitor the temps. Freezer should not be warmer than 10F - normally 0F, but optimal temps are -10F (and also if you want hard icecream) -10F allows faster recovery in case of outages. For refrigerator no warmer than 40F - you want optimal to be 34F.

You want to also make sure your evaporator fan motor is spinning and look for any door gasket leaks.

If, after checking your evaporator fan and coils for frost, and door gaskets and you notice your unit is not cooling properly and your compressor is running continuously without cycling off, then next step would be to check the condenser and clean the excess dust (which traps the heat) if your condensers are at the bottom and they are clean, then make sure the condenser fan at the back / bottom of your unit is running.

If all fails, then the last thing (rare) would be a sealed system leak, in which case you will need to get it serviced and it will cost you a lot of money.

If you notice your compressor cycling off before the target cooling temps, then raise your cooing knob at higher temps, if it works then your thermostat is out of calirbation.

If everything cools normally after you've defrosted manually then the problem relates to a defrost problem - in which case you will need to get it serviced and have the control board checked and defrost timer components.

If your freezer is cooling normally and not your refrigerator section, then check for any obstruction of the vents, door gaskets and if you have one, the damper flap not opening wide enough or at all to let cool air in, if applicable to your model.

best of luck.

Sep 20, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.3 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free...

1 Answer


looks like operating normally...

the fridge as it reaches it's temperature shuts the compressor off and then after a few minutes..the fridge would increase temperature again and would turn back the compressor again.

its the thermostat which is cutting on and off the compressor.

and i think it is normal. based on the temperatures that you is cooling very well..0 F in the freezer and 40 in the refrigerator... that's good.


Nov 06, 2008 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

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