Question about Princeton Digital VL1916 19" LCD Monitor

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Monitor dark for 20 minutes before turning on

I have a Princeton VL1919, which I turn off every night, though I leave the PC running. For the last few weeks, when I turn the monitor back on in the morning, it takes 20 or so minutes to display an image -- in the meantime, the power LED just blinks and blinks, but the screen stays dark. And rebooting the PC makes no difference. Anyway, eventually the monitor does come on, but it's a long wait.

What's going on here?

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  • tigger1981 Apr 30, 2008

    I have much the same problem. I have my laptop in a docking station. I leave it on at night and at some point the monitor powers down to sleep mode (orange light). The next morning, when I go to use the laptop (type or move the mouse), the light changes to a blinking blue light. Rebooting does not help, but turning the laptop off and removing it from the station then putting it back is an immediate fix (but annoying). Otherwise, after 15-20 mins, the monitor fires up.

  • steveross1 Jul 05, 2008

    Same problem here. I did notice that if I wait 15 minutes or so and reboot the computer that often it will work. Perhaps it has taken this time to warm up and a power surge from the computer reboot?

  • chengat Jul 27, 2008

    I have the same problem. I did notice that an electrolytic cap (it was connected for 12v to gnd) was blown on the power supply board...replaced that cap and the problem is still there...I did notice that if I disconnect the data connection from the blinking stops...but no screen!



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My VL1919 has been having this issue off and on for a month or so now. It happened three times in one day today, so I decided to do something about it. I opened up the monitor and poked around a bit.
I found three electrolytic capacitors on the backlight inverter board were bulging, two of which had just started to leak: Monitor dark for 20 minutes before turning on - 71706a0.jpg The capacitors were placed directly above and next to a large, flat metal heat sink. I say above with respect to the flow of air due to convection, and next to because the heat sink also wraps around, enclosing the group of capacitors on one side. The heat sink sits flush with the circuit board, turning the board into a front enclosing face. When reassembled, the metal housing sits a fraction of an inch above the sink, forming a back face. This assembly is at the top edge of the circuit board, so the housing then takes a 90° bend to form a top face. These capacitors seem to get almost no air flow... Together with the heat coming off the sink, it appears the engineers have created their own little capacitor oven. Capacitors immediately adjacent to the affected components, but without blocked air flow looked completely normal. Looking at the traces on the circuit board and location of other components, the capacitors could have easily been moved out of the hot spot. This is either an act of gross negligence, or an intentionally created post-warranty failure point, designed to avoid market saturation. But that might be too pessimistic... "Never attribute to malice what can be adequately explained by incompetence." Anyway, I scavenged a few capacitors off an old computer power supply to replace the damaged parts (one 470uF 25V two 1000uF 10V capacitor, both rated to 105°C). To avoid a repeat performance, I soldered some short extension wires to the replacement caps and moved them out to an open area of the board, being careful to give the high voltage components plenty of breathing room. After reassembly, the monitor powered right up and came online. I guess the real question is how long it will stay this way.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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iksbob, how did you get the covers seperated. I'm afraid that I will break it, bein so fragile and all.
I too have a VL1919. I recieved it as a gift seeing that it didn't work. Yet, I could see its screen flicker. I have xp, nvidia card, gateway from 2001. nvidia drivers are a fresh install and latest version.
I won't go in the great detail the multiple steps I took to get it to light up. But since then I've done the following.
I created this INF file
; Manufacturers


; Manufacturer Sections
%VL1919%=VL1919, Monitor\Default_Monitor
; Install sections

; -------------- Princeton
AddReg=VL1919.Add, 1280, DPMS
; Common AddReg sections

; Model AddReg sections
; -------------- Princeton
HKR,,PreferredMode,,"1280, 1024, 60"
; User visible strings
VL1919="Princeton Graphic Systems VL1919"

Mode1,,"30.0-70.0,50.0-120.0,+,+" is incorrect, so I override it by using PreferredMode.
Next, I turn on the computer, the monitor flickers, I listen for the desktop music, then
with ctrl+alt+del, twice and press it off, now I wait. I wait for the monitor to inform me
that there's no signal, so it will go to sleep.
After it does, I reboot and press f8 repeatedly, until I get the menu for how to restart,
I choose normal boot, and having previously installed the inf file preset at 1280x1024
I go straight threw as I would with a crt monitor.
I've been trying to pull the EDID from the monitor, but there is something wrong with
the DDC. I used Powerstrip for this, as the other EDID programs were ineffective. I
would like very much to eyeball the caps. I'm afraid of breaking the covers if I pull it
off to hard. How did you separated the back without breaking anything?
I was thinking that if I got the manufacturing code I could replace
%VL1919%=VL1919, Monitor\Default_Monitor with
%VL1919%=VL1919, Monitor\manufacture codes, then I wouldn't have this problem.
However, if it's a caps problem, simply replacing them would have the same effect.

Posted on Aug 21, 2009

  • iksbob Oct 25, 2010

    If I recall correctly, once any screws have been removed, the two plastic shell-halves are held together by the typical plastic clips around the seams. Your best bet is to use a very thin instrument to work into the seam, then pry a bit so one shell half is pressed inward and the other outward (you'll have to experiment to figure out which is which). Once a clip is popped, you'll generally want to stick something in the seam to keep it spread while you work on the next clip down the line.
    While a small flathead screwdriver will often suffice for prying, if you see yourself doing this kind of thing in the future, invest in a set of spudgers... The metal ones work great for this stuff, while plastic ones are good for small portable electronics.

    As a followup, my monitor's still going strong with the replacement caps.

  • Rod Young Jul 21, 2011

    After taking off the stand, you will see two more screws near the bottom of the back holding the two shell halves together, and one screw on the bottom under the control panel. Remove all of these. Then, when you pry, I suggest starting at the lower left or lower right corner of the monitor. You don't need to be too afraid, because even if you should break one of the lower plastic tabs, the screws will still hold the back on. Also, the plastic back shell is mostly cosmetic. If you were to destroy the back shell completely, you could still assemble the monitor onto its stand and it would work fine, and in fact, from the front, it would look completely normal.


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Without an on-site inspection, I would venture that the monitor may have developed either:
1. cold solder - chances are with any high power component and probably in the power supply section; or a
2. leaky capacitor - bulged or no longer up to the job and requires time to build-up stored potential.

If lightly tapping on the monitor speeds up the turning on, then chances are that it is a cold solder creating a loose connection.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Apr 05, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Apr 15, 2008

    Glad to be of assistance and appreciate the rating.


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My Princeton 19" monitor started blinking when starting up from sleep mode, Ive changed settings where monitor is always on and NO screen saver....At first it would blink four or five times till it stayed it just blinks off and on,,,,the display that is....The green light stays on as it should...never changes to the amber.....................even if I unplug the input cord......Hummm!
Any Help?


Posted on Jul 23, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Unless the problem is in the monitor, more likely the PC video resolution is too high for the monitor to work. Please read here:

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Also watch out for the caps to go bad in this monitor also.
Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
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Learn about bad caps:
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