Reply ok i read my post and it didnt sound right LOL The 4 i mention do nothing when i put meter on them in any setting so i assume they are open or blown.... i bought the set used 2-3 yrs ago .... those 4 are the only ones with that type resistor everything else is the baby blue 6.8 ohm you mention .... so do you think someone put something there in its place wrong ? if so should i put back the right ones ? or replace with ones it has ?

You need the computer that went with the engine you put in,it controls all the sensor.the sensors are set to that computer box.please let me how you get on

You have a dirty or loose connection either between the battery's negative post and engine ground (most likely) or between the battery's positive post and the starter solenoid. You can determine which by setting your meter to "DCV" or "DC Volts" and putting one probe on the battery's negative post (the lead POST, not the clamp) and the other probe on the alternator's body. Try to crank the engine that way - your meter SHOULD insist on reading 0.0V, but if you have a poor ground connection it may read as high as 12V.

Likewise, read volts between the battery's positive POST and the positive connection to the starter solenoid while someone tries to crank the engine. Again, it should read 0.0 but if you have a poor connection it'll read significant voltage.

Hi anonymous, don't quite know what your asking but if you think your coil might be bad their is a way you can check it with an ohm meter. Remove the coil and set the ohm meter to Rx1 scale and touch the two meter leads together the meter should read zero. Then touch the meter leads to the brass posts that the pink and white wires were connected to, the meter should read 2.5--3.1 ohms. Next set the meter to Rx1K scale and touch the leads in the spark plug cable holes the meter should read 10,000--12,500 ohms any readings outside these numbers replace the coil, if you find any cracks on the coil replace it. If the coil checks out ok then re-intall it with both pink wires on one post and both white wires on the other, it does not matter which post you put the wires on as long as the same color wires go on, the same post. Good luck

After reading your post I can't understand what are you doing and what you expect to achieve

ok, lets try a few things...First, make sure the knobs, buttons, settings, etc have not moved from the drop or put them back where they belong if they did move. I would suggest doing a "Green button"
reset. Turn on your camera, press and hold the two buttons that have the "green" dot next to them, release them after you see the display flash( a few seconds). this resets the camera to the factory defaults on most adjustments, enough to get it working correctly if nothing is actually broken. Once you have done that, make sure the lens is properly mounted and locked in position. check the lens to see if you can focus and zoom it by hand, this will tell you if the lens is "basically" ok. we need to see if the aperture is closing down when the picture is taken. to do this, point the camera toward you so you can see inside the front end of the lens. you should be viewing the camera like it is in the picture in the top of this post, looking at the front. watch closely inside the lens and take a picture of yourself(without flash!!). you should have seen the aperture close down and then open back up. If you saw this then the camera is working the aperture correctly. if all that is working we need to check the speed and fstop settings of the camera. a quick way to do this is as follows. I'm assuming you know how to set your camera on Manual. Set the iso at 200, go outside, on a sunny day and take a meter reading off the grass in the lawn. the meter should read fairly close to 1/200 (1/250)with your aperture set at f16. If you get this reading then your meter is working ok. next set your camera on manual, and adjust the shutter speeds from slow to fast. take a picture at slow and see if the shutter opens and closes slowly, then take a shot at fast speed to see if the speed of the shutter is "following" your commands, we are looking to see that there is a noticeable difference between "real Slow" and Real fast". if so, now we know that the shutter is working properly. if any of these don't seem right you will need to dig deeper to find the problem or get it serviced. Hopefully the lens bumped out of position when it fell, that would be the easiest to fix, but, that is all i can think of for now. Good luck, Worm1855.

ok assuming this is a wireless keyboard and mouse since you mentioned batteries. 1) what kind is it 2) is the transmitter pluged to a usb port on machine 3) flip it over, is there a resett button on the underside of the keyboard ( this resetts the keyboard and communicates to the transmitter 4) remove cell phone or digital phone from desk or area till it connects
(maybe dumb but , take out batteries and make sure positive is to positive )
post back please had to make theses assumptions since you didnt mention

With radio turned on

1. Switch the first switch (S/RF SWR CAL) to CAL setting
2. Key mic up &
3. Turn SWR CAL knob while still keying mic until the needle is on the red CAL arrow at the far end of the meter scale. Unkey mic.
4. Switch the first switch back to SWR setting.
5. Key mic up again and record SWR reading and adjust as needed.
6. When done adjusting put switch back in the S/RF setting for normal operation.

Do not flip the switch with the mic keyed up.

try some coils...you could multimeter them first just to make sure. with wires out and on the R X 1 scale
scale you should get about 2 to 3 ohms. this will be measured at the back of the coil on those little post. then go to the front and pull off the wires and set your meter to the R X 100 sacle you should read 11k - 15k ohms approx..now put the wires back in the coil and red directly though the plug wires and you should read 21k-25k approx..if this all checks out o.k. then you probably have a bad pulse generator assembly. you didnt mention the year of the bike...you know if you have a weak battery you"ll have a very weak spark...so measure you battery voltage too..it shouldnt be below 12.3v

Hello again empsglen,

"If the sub voice coil is open, you will get exactly no sound. No crackling, nothing.

Use a multimeter to check the sub voice coil. If the meter reads infinity, the coil is open and to the amp, it's as if there's no sub connected, and you will need to replace it."

Sorry about that.

OK, my clarification assumes that you know how to set a volt-ohm-milliamp (VOM), or multimeter up to measure ohms, and that you have such a meter or have access to one.

The voice coil is the part of your sub that connects to the amp output and causes the cone to move in and out in response to electrical signals. If it is open (broken, burned) there will be no electrical flow and the cone will not move. A good voice coil will read a resistance (impedance) on the multimeter. If the coil is open, the meter reads as if it wasn't even connected (infinity) and if the coil is shorted, the meter reads zero (dead short). Simply put the meter across the speaker terminals and read the results.

Hi,

you didn't mention which version of windows are using so i am going to assume that you have windows XP if that is not the case then let me and i can provide you with an alternate solution.

1. click on the start button
2. click on run
3. type ncpa.cpl
4. right-click on local area connection(if using ethernet cable)
5. single-left-click on internet protocol (tcp/ip)
6. click on properties
7. click on set dns servers manually instead of obtaining automatically
8. enter 208.67.222.222 and 208.67.220.220 as the primary and secondary servers.
9. restart the computer

if it still doesn't work
1. click on the start button
2. click on run
3. type cmd
4. click ok
5. type nslookup www.google.com
6. hit enter

and reply with the results.