How do i fix broken handle

Hello Elly
You need to remove the inside panel of the door and there should be a metal rod that connects the inside door handle to the lock.
It sounds like the connecting rod slipped out of the hole. There is usually a white plastic piece that holds the rod in position. The rod pushes inside the center hole of the plastic piece and there is like an arm that clips onto the rod to keep the rod in place. This plastic piece arm could be broken or came loose which causes the rod to slip out.

There is a cable that goes from the handle to the base, the cable or the plastic piece it attaches to at the base of the vacuum may me broken.

Remove panel check for disconnected rod or broken plastic connection.might have to replace inside handle(piece of cake)..

Parts can be had from a junk yard...remove door panel and push up on the connecting rod to open...generally, a little piece of plastic slips off or breaks inside the door. It is attached to a certain part of the rod. Should be white or clear plastic...look for the broken bits when door panel is removed so you know what you need....cheers

It's possible it can be fixed. Ours also no longer clicked. I took it apart and found that the flat plastic piece in the handle that activates the circuitry in the base had broken away from the rocker piece in the base. Fortunately the same flat plastic piece conveniently had a couple of holes in it in a helpful location. I looped some wire through the holes and also around the bottom rocker piece to hold the two pieces together.
I reassembled the kettle and tried it out and it now works fine! Problem fixed.
To disassemble, take the four screws out of the bottom of the kettle. (You'll need the appropriate star bits to do so.) Put those screws in a safe location... Lift off the bottom plate.
Now, the plastic for the handle is held in place by the typical notched clasps used by so many plastic appliances. You unsnap the clasps by CAREFULLY inserting a straight blade screw driver between the handle plastic and the kettle and GENTLY prying the handle plastic away from the kettle. You'll hear the internal clasps "popping" as they snap loose. You CANNOT take the handle all the way off this way. You just loosen it. Now, the top of the handle is a separate piece. Do the same for this. The top will pop completely off.
Next, GENTLY remove the lid. You can slide it a bit up and away. It's a tight fit, so you need to use a little force, but not too much.
Once you've done this, there are two metal pins that hold the main part of the handle to the kettle. They have a little ridge around the top that you can use to pry them out with your fingernail. Once those pins are removed, the handle will simply come off.
BE CAREFUL! The various parts in the handle are now loose! If you aren't careful they'll fall off and you'll have to figure out how to reassemble them.
Now, you'll notice the long flat plastic piece running down the side of the kettle. That piece was hidden behind the handle. It is SUPPOSED to be fastened to a rocker plate at the bottom. If you look at the end of the flat piece at the bottom you will likely see what I did. It had just disconnected from the rocker plate. Take some wire and wire the two pieces together using the little hole-like slots at the end of the flat piece. Just loop the wire through the hole and down around the rocker plate piece exposed inside where the handle is.
While applying this wire, it will be helpful to put a little masking tape across the various handle pieces to keep them from falling off. This is important because you'll probably be wiring the pieces together with the kettle on its side like I did, and the parts will fall off if you aren't careful. When you are done wiring things together you just remove the tape.
Once you've done this, reassemble the kettle in the reverse order you disassembled it.
You'll notice that once you've wired together the two separated pieces, pressing the switch on the top pulls up on the flat plastic piece which pulls the rocker plate which closes the circuit in the base.

I just fell into the same situation. My interior driver's door handle just does nothing all of a sudden. I went on the Mazda Forum website and came away with at least a temporary fix.
The lock switch can be used to open the door from the inside by pushing it the opposite way it's pushed when locking the door. In other words, the rear portion of the lock switch needs to be depressed and the front portion needs to be pulled away from the door. It may be difficult to do with the trim piece around the lock still on. The trim piece can be removed by pulling the small plastic cap away from the base (it's on a plastic hinge) off and unscrewing the holding screw underneath it. Pull the handle away from the door and the trim piece will come right off.
I'm using that as a temporary solution now until I get a new/used door assembly.
Hope that helps.

I had the exact same issue with mine! I didn't manage to fix it, but I know exactly what the issue is. If you open the printer, you'll find a black rectangular box above where the film fits inside the printer. This black box is connected to the board above it, and is supposed to press down against the film, and then against the paper for it to print properly. There is a little bar above the rectangular box, and there should be two plastic pieces on both ends of this bar. The bar is also connected to the gears, and when the gears move the bar, the two plastic pieces coming off of the bar push the black box down. When I looked at mine, only one of the plastic pieces was doing its job; the other one was broken, and was sliding on the bar. Tried some super glue, wouldn't work. I suggest tossing it out like I did, unless it's still under warranty or you want to try fixing the plastic piece so the printer head gets pressed down all the way.

Door handle seems loose and not connected? Then the plastic clip broke inside the door. Take off the door panel, 3 screws, and door lock cap and plastic insert around inside door handle. pry around the bottom first, and go up, when you reach the top, pull up, please be carefull to not break any more plastic. you will see a squarish opening midway up the door toward the latch. reach in and pull a rod toward the opening. You see a broken piece of plastic on the tip? if so take it off and get the replacement part for it at an autoparts store, install the new one and your set. I have broke to many of these so i ended up bending the end of the rod and using a nut to hold it in.:]

That is correct, the flat plastic rod that pulls when you depress the on/off button is attached to a switch lever under the bottom of the handle. The rod in mine broke off right where it connects to that switch lever. You can either try and find the new or used part, Braun may have new, I have not tried their 800 number, can't hurt? I fix everything from scratch though and rebuild when I can especially if parts are scarce or obsolete. So I used some marine putty to affix the rod end back to the lever. Marine putty is a stick with two putties you roll together for a rock hard compound, awesome stuff. You can get at Wally World or hardware, auto parts, boat supply stores. I also drilled very small holes in the broken rod on each side and the lever on each side and threaded some thin stainless steel wire through, just looped it around without twisting it togethor before putting the putty over it for a permanent, wire reinforced, fix.The handle is not screwed on exception of one little torx screw at very bottom of handle on base. The handle just snaps together. The base or bottom and 3 screws do not need to be removed either for this rod and lever fix. Remove the top 'cover' piece of the handle first, then remove the two brass pins under it at top next to the on/off button second. So, the handle 'snaps' off with a lock blade knife or equivalent, get under the handle pieces with knife edge and twist the blade, it will pop off as you go, be prepared to break a few little hook pieces off underneath, they break but it seems to snap back on ok anyway. Crazy glue alone won't hold these plastic pieces together btw, try another way, wire and putty, maybe a plastic welding kit etc.. Mine works great again, once I got the lever reattached to the rod.

That is correct, the flat plastic rod that pulls when you depress the on/off button is attached to a switch lever under the bottom of the handle. The rod in mine broke off right where it connects to that switch lever. You can either try and find the new or used part, Braun may have new, I have not tried their 800 number, can't hurt? I fix everything from scratch though and rebuild when I can especially if parts are scarce or obsolete. So I used some marine putty to affix the rod end back to the lever. Marine putty is a stick with two putties you roll together for a rock hard compound, awesome stuff. You can get at Wally World or hardware, auto parts, boat supply stores. I also drilled very small holes in the broken rod on each side and the lever on each side and threaded some thin stainless steel wire through, just looped it around without twisting it togethor before putting the putty over it for a permanent, wire reinforced, fix.The handle is not screwed on exception of one little torx screw at very bottom of handle on base. The handle just snaps together. The base or bottom and 3 screws do not need to be removed either for this rod and lever fix. Remove the top 'cover' piece of the handle first, then remove the two brass pins under it at top next to the on/off button second. So, the handle 'snaps' off with a lock blade knife or equivalent, get under the handle pieces with knife edge and twist the blade, it will pop off as you go, be prepared to break a few little hook pieces off underneath, they break but it seems to snap back on ok anyway. Crazy glue alone won't hold these plastic pieces together btw, try another way, wire and putty, maybe a plastic welding kit etc.. Mine works great again, once I got the lever reattached to the rod..