The led re-outs @ top right inside refer are not visible but this is on and off. When the refer door switch is touched it seems to short out the display as well as the ice dispenser lights, I think this is do to a bad switch which I am replacing today but this morning both sides refer & freezer are warming up, can this be caused by an erratic reading from a bad refer door switch?

Inadvertent Power
At the body control module (SBM) connector C1 cavity D1, inadvertent power is both an output and an input. The inadvertent power is either an output or an input, but never both. When the inadvertent power output is inactive, activating any lamp switch grounds the inadvertent power input through the lamp. As a result of the input, the SBM will activate the inadvertent power output.
The inadvertent power output supplies battery positive voltage (B+) to the lamps on CKT 1732 (ORN). Any of these lamps may drain the battery if you leave the lamps on. The SBM has a battery protection feature in order to protect the electrical system from these unwanted loads. The following 4 conditions may activate the inadvertent power output:
The ignition switch is in RUN.
The inadvertent power output is inactive and the inadvertent power input receives an active lamp input.
Any door opens.
The SBM receives an input from the remote function actuator (RFA) module.
The SBM deactivates the inadvertent power output if any lamp is active for more than 10 minutes and the ignition switch is OFF during the entire period.
Interior Lamp Control
The body control module (SBM) controls the function of the courtesy lamps. The IP junction block SBM fuse supplies battery positive voltage (B+) at all times to the SBM inadvertent power output. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the courtesy lamps as described above. The SBM provides a ground path to the courtesy lamps from the theatre dim-1 and the theatre dim-2 outputs . The theatre dim-1 supplies ground to the lamps on CKT 156 (WHT). The theatre dim-2 supplies ground to the lamps on CKT 157 (GRY). The SBM activates the outputs when a door is opened or the courtesy lamp switch activates. The outputs are deactivated when the SBM detects that all of the doors are closed and the courtesy lamp switches are inactive. If the outputs are deactivated because of a door closing, the outputs are deactivated with the theatre dimming function. The theatre dimming function causes the lamps to fade out gradually over a period of 3 seconds. If the outputs are deactivated by a courtesy lamp switch, the outputs are deactivated immediately without the theatre dimming function.


Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop .

Incandescent Lamps
When the park lamps are on, battery positive voltage (B+) is applied to the park lamp input in the panel dimming module. The dimming switch on the headlamp switch varies in resistance as the dimming switch is operated. The panel dimming module receives a variable input voltage based on the resistance of the dimming control. The panel dimming module supplies a variable voltage through CKT 8 (GRY) to the incandescent lamps. The voltage is proportional to the voltage input from the dimming switch. The lamps become brighter as the voltage level increases. The lamps become dimmer as the voltage level decreases.
VF Displays
The following components have a VF display:
• The radio
• The heater and A/C programmer
• The instrument cluster
• The head-up display (HUD)
When a module receives an ignition in RUN input, the module activates the VF display at full intensity. When the park lamps are on and the vehicle senses nighttime conditions, the lamp control module (LCM) supplies a dim enable signal to the components. When the module receives the dim enable input, ther module dims the VF display to the current dimming level. The radio and instrument cluster receive the dimming level input via CKT 8 (GRY). The HUD has a separate dimming control on the HUD switch in the overhead console. The HUD receives the dimming level input through CKT 622 (BRN). The heater and A/C programmer receive the enable and dimming level inputs from the radio through CKT 724 (PPL/WHT).

Courtesy or Dome Lamps Always On
Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No
1
Did you perform the Interior Lights System Check?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
2
Connect a scan tool to the data link connector (DLC).
Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
Place the courtesy lamp switch in the OFF position.
View the body control module (SBM) courtesy switch input.
Is the input OFF?
--
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 11
3
Inspect the SBM auxiliary lighting input.
Is the input OFF?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 14
4
Close all of the doors.
Inspect the driver door module (DDM) dome/buzzer switch input.
Is the input OFF?
--
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 16
5
Inspect the DDM passenger dome/buzzer switch input.
Is the input OFF?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 20
6
Inspect the DDM left rear dome/buzzer switch input.
Is the input OFF?
--
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 24
7
Inspect the DDM right rear dome/buzzer switch input.
Is the input OFF?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 28
8
Test CKT 156 (WHT) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 156?
--
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 32
9
Test CKT 157 (GRY) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 157?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 32
10
Replace the SBM. Refer to Body Control Module Replacement in Body Control Module.
Is the SBM module replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
11
Disconnect the headlamp switch connector.
Is the SBM courtesy switch input OFF?
--
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 13
12
Replace the headlamp switch.
Is the headlamp switch replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
13
Test CKT 1495 (DK BLU/WHT) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 1495?
--
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 32
14
Test CKT 1393 (DK BLU) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 1393?
--
Go to Step 15
Go to Step 32
15
Replace the remote function actuator (RFA) module. Refer to Remote Control Door Lock Receiver Replacement in Keyless Entry.
Is the RFA module replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
16
Disconnect the left front door jamb switch connector.
Is the DDM driver dome/buzzer switch input OFF?
--
Go to Step 17
Go to Step 18
17
Replace the left front door jamb switch. Refer to Door Lock Actuator Replacement in Doors.
Is the door jamb switch replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
18
Test CKT 126 (TAN) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 126?
--
Go to Step 19
Go to Step 32
19
Replace the DDM. Refer to Front Side Door Window Module Replacement in Doors.
Is the DDM replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
20
Disconnect the right front door jamb switch connector.
Is the DDM passenger dome/buzzer switch input OFF?
--
Go to Step 21
Go to Step 22
21
Replace the right front door jamb switch. Refer to Door Lock Actuator Replacement in Doors.
Is the door jamb switch replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
22
Test CKT 1177 (LT GRN) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 1177?
--
Go to Step 23
Go to Step 32
23
Replace the passenger door module (PDM). Refer to Rear Side Door Window Module Replacement in Doors.
Is the PDM replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
24
Disconnect the left rear door jamb switch connector.
Is the DDM left rear dome/buzzer switch input OFF?
--
Go to Step 25
Go to Step 26
25
Replace the left rear door jamb switch. Refer to Door Lock Actuator Replacement in Doors.
Is the door jamb switch replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
26
Test CKT 1179 (DK BLU/WHT) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 1179?
--
Go to Step 27
Go to Step 32
27
Replace the rear door module (RDM). Refer to Rear Side Door Window Module Replacement in Doors.
Is the RDM replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
28
Disconnect the right rear door jamb switch connector.
Is the right rear dome/buzzer switch input off?
--
Go to Step 29
Go to Step 30
29
Replace the right rear door jamb switch. Refer to Door Lock Actuator Replacement in Doors.
Is the door jamb switch replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
30
Test CKT 1181 (YEL/BLK) for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground in Wiring Systems.
Is there a short to ground in CKT 1181?
--
Go to Step 31
Go to Step 32
31
Replace the RDM. Refer to Rear Side Door Window Module Replacement in Doors.
Is the RDM replacement complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check
--
32
Repair the faulty wiring. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Interior Lamps System Check

The Power Door Lock System is controlled by the body control module (BCM) and can be activated by any one of the following
?€¢
A door lock switch lock or unlock actuation.

?€¢
A door lock cylinder switch unlock actuation.

?€¢
A keyless entry transmitter actuation.

?€¢
An automatic door lock actuation (Personalization function).

?€¢
An automatic door unlock actuation (Personalization function).

?€¢
A last door closed locking (LDCL) actuation (Personalization function).

Door Lock Operation
When the body control module (BCM) detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the lock position, it switches the door lock actuator lock control circuit to voltage. Since the lock actuator unlock control circuits are at ground potential within the BCM, the door lock actuator motors transition to the lock position.
Driver Door Unlock Operation
When the body control module (BCM) detects a transition of either of the door lock switches to the unlock position, it switches the driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit to voltage. Since the door lock actuator lock control circuit is at ground potential within the BCM, the left front (LF) door lock actuator motor transitions to the Unlock position.
The driver door lock actuator unlock control circuit is a dedicated control circuit used only for the driver door lock actuator motor. This is done so that the driver door may be unlocked by itself using a keyless entry transmitter or an automatic door unlock function (if programmed).
Faulty electrical connections or wiring may be the cause of intermittent conditions. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections.
A factory scan tool would help for checking inputs from the door switches to the BCM ! You could do it with out scan tool , a lot more work involved ! Need a wiring diagram an a component location chart an wiring harness routing diagram !
Most intermittent conditions are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring. Inspect for the following items:
?€¢
Wiring broken inside the insulation

?€¢
Poor connection between the male and female terminal at a connector

?€¢
Poor terminal to wire connection--Some conditions which fall under this description are poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over the wire insulation rather than the wire itself, and corrosion in the wire to terminal contact area, etc.

?€¢
Pierced or damaged insulation can allow moisture to enter the wiring causing corrosion. The conductor can corrode inside the insulation, with little visible evidence. Look for swollen and stiff sections of wire in the suspect circuits.

?€¢
Wiring which has been pinched, cut, or its insulation rubbed through may cause an intermittent open or short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the vehicle.

?€¢
Wiring that comes in contact with hot or exhaust components

?€¢
Refer to Inducing Intermittent Fault Conditions in order to duplicate the conditions required, in order to verify the customer concern.

?€¢
Refer to Testing for Electrical Intermittents for test procedures to detect intermittent open, high resistance, short to ground, and short to voltage conditions.

?€¢
Refer to Scan Tool Snapshot Procedure for advanced intermittent diagnosis and Vehicle Data Recorder operation.

You should take it to a ASE certified repair shop if not familiar with Automotive electronics !

Make sure the ribbon cables or the screens are plugged in. one for each screen and one for the touch screen (i think the touch screen is the one thats causing your problem) its small and comes out easily. please wright back if it works

A fuse blows when there is too much current drawn thru it. Let's say it is for the radio. If the radio is turned off and the fuse blows immediately then the power wire to the radio has a bare spot somewhere and is touching the metal of the car or the power wire is touching the negative wire. If it blows when you turn it on then the radio has a short inside or a malfunction causing it to draw too much current.
Let's say it is for the dome light. If you put the fuse in with the door closed and the dome light is set for DOOR and blows right away then the short is in the wire leading to the door switch or the switch is shorting out, letting + touch the - metal body of the car. The entire body is negative. That is why there is usually only one big thick black wire on the battery for negative. If the fuse blows when the door is opened, then the switch is probably shorting out, or the wires going to the dome light.
Generally when the fuse blows when you turn something on, then whatever you are turning on is probably junk, unless it is a stereo that draws too much power for the thickness of the wire, or the stereo is junk.

Welcome to FixYa!

If the first symbol on the top is constantly blinking as shown in the picture below, It means that a paper or a foreign object has jammed your printer.



Jam can occur in 3 areas. Please refer to the image below.
1. Internal Areas
2. Input Trays
3. The Output Bins


To clear the jam, turn the printer off and disconnect the power cord. Be careful not to tear the paper in case of a paper jam. If a small piece of paper remains in the printer, it could cause additional paper jam.

Let's clear out the Internal Areas first. Push the button to open the print-cartridge door, and then remove the print cartridge. To prevent damage, do not expose the print cartridge to light. Cover it with a piece of paper. Please refer to the image below.


If jammed paper is visible, grasp it with both hands and slowly pull it out of the printer. Please refer to the image below.

If no paper was jammed inside the print-cartridge door, open the Output Bin or the back door
of the printer. To avoid damaging the printer, do not attempt to clear a jam in the top output bin by pulling the paper straight out.

Again, if jammed paper is visible, grasp it with both hands and slowly pull it out of the printer.
If no paper or foreign object is visible, close the back door of the printer.

Next, let's take a look at the Input Tray. (We have already taken out the print cartridge.)
Lift the Tray 1 roller cover, grasp the jammed paper or foreign object, and slowly pull it out of the printer. Please refer to the image below.

If no jammed paper is or foreign object is visible, open Tray 2 and see if a paper is visible. Again remove it slowly with both hands. Please refer to the image below.

Close Tray 2.
If no jammed paper is visible in the second tray area, pull down the upper media guide (we have already taken out the print cartridge). With both hands, grasp the jammed paper and slowly pull it out of the printer. Please refer to the image below.

Close the upper media guide and return back the print cartridge. Please refer to the image below.


These steps should clear out any jams that you are experiencing.
Connect back the power cord again and turn on your printer. You should be able to print now.

Thanks for using FixYa. Keep me posted.
Jas247

their sounds like their is a short in the switch or wire.

if i was testing it. id unplug the one side and test the other alone. then each wire individuality for current when i press switch to on position

shorts seem top be visible at times with visual inspection. so look before you touch. and checking the switch for resistance is a good idea also. but do not have the battery hooked up to test switch for resistance or no power to switch when testing.

Sounds like your on the right track. The switch getting warm is a bit of an issue, but that could be normal operation depending on a number of factors.

But, your right, the switch pops out from the front. Be sure and disconnect power before you attempt this as you don't know if the switch is on 120VAC or a low voltage power from the controller.

The switch is behind the front panel - to remove it, unplug the machine and:

1. Open the panel where the drain filter is (lower left side of the front panel)
2. Remove screw visible inside this area and remove the white molded plastic - also remove the screw behind that plastic.
3. Open the washer door and remove the spring loaded wire around the door gasket. Carefully pull the door gasket away from the panel push inside and then reclose the door.
4. Remove the detergent drawer and the two screws visible behind it.
5. Pull the top of the electronics panel away from the machine and lift up - place on top of machine or hook it out of the way
6 Remove the 4 screws that are visible holding the front panel to the machine. Left the entire front panel up about 2 inches and swing to the right

The wire connecting the panel to the machine on the right leads to the switch and door lock mechanism

I just fixed my today!-same problem on both sides--I went to the junk yard and was able to get replacement jar Switches for $5.00-- They seem to short out.-They are the push button switch inside the door well- One screw and a clip pops them out, clean the areas around it with alcohol since the switch uses the frame to make the connection. replace the switches and then check them. I also notice that the doors seem to go out of line over the course of years setting the door off just a bit not making the tight close it needs to set these switches- so I places on the door it self a piece of foam tape about 1/16 inch thick exactly where the button touches the frame of the door. That made the connection push the button all the way in and problem was solved-

Removing the Washer Top
Three screws secure the washer top at the back of the washer. Remove the three screws and lift the top from the washer.

Removing the Console from the Cabinet
Disconnect the Touch Pad/LED Assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the Central Control Unit and release it from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top

Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out of the washer.

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening. Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer

Open the washer door and place a flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot in the bottom center of the console. Push the console up to release center console tab. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the Touch Pad/LED Assembly from the Console
The Touch Pad/LED Assembly is removed as a single unit and contains the Push Buttons, LEDs, cable, etc. The buttons can be replaced separately