I have a Goodman mfg inside system that recently has failed to start the blower when the AC comes on. The outside compressor will start but the inside fan will not start every time. Some times it will and other times it will not. When I manually turn the fan on the samething occurs where it will come on sometimes. If I turn on the fan manually or wait until the AC system is to start based on the thermostat setting and the reset the breakers on the inside unit (Goodman Model A49-20) then the blower starts up and will run until it is shut down. It is very interminent on it not starting.
When the system is in heat mode the blower starts every time.
This should have a time delay sequencer for the blower in the a/c mode. These are bad about being interminent in the a/c mode and also in fan. I have had some that would freeze up and I would get there and the fan be running. Thaw out and check and everything be ok. Got to cycling the fan on and off and sooner or later it would get where fan didn't come on. After replacement the customer didn't have anymore problem. Check the rely, looks like a heat sequencer but mounted on plate to blower compartment.
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Re: Inside blower not starting every time
That's a weird problem. I wonder if the outside compressor is drawing down the voltage in the breaker box enuff to keep the blower from starting up. If you're set to cool but the thermostat is NOT calling for the AC, can you manually turn the blower on fathfully? If so, I would check all wiring connections in the breaker box to make sure they are tight and free from tarnish or corrosion. You may even need to contact your power company and have a higher amperage line installed outside. Do your house lights blink noticably when the compressor kicks on?
While you're resolving this, you could start the blower manually and just leave it on. The compressor cycling on/off shouldn't stop the blower once it's running and it won't draw much current... couple bucks a month maybe.
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Turn the system off on the thermostat and set the fan to "ON", this will thaw the ice faster if it hasn't already. When the system has completely thawed, which could take hours sometimes, depending on how bad it's frozen, then turn system back to "Cool" and start these checks>
1. Make sure filters are clean! 2. Make sure there is proper airflow through vents. 3. Make sure outside condenser fan motor is running.
If you have either no or minimal airflow, check the indoor blower to make sure it's working, if it is, the evaporator coil is dirty restricting the airflow. Be sure the system is thawed because the ice will also block the airflow!
If the condenser fan motor is not running, either the capacitor or the fan motor will need to be replaced.
If your filters are clean, you have good airflow through the house, and everything comes on like it should, it will most likely be the charge of refrigerant in the system is too low and you have a leak somewhere. If you have to have it charged, be sure the system is thawed before the technician gets there, he will not be able to do anything while it's froze.
Easy: Turn the "fan" switch to on at the thermostat and see if the blower starts. If no start, check breaker at breaker box. Check service disconnect at or near the air handler. With the breaker and/or service disconnect OFF check the 3 or 5 amp fuse inside the top cover in the air handler. Not so easy: (You must know what you are doing for this part or let an HVAC Tech do it for you) Open thermostat and firmly jump the Y and R terminals to see if you get the compressor to start for no more than 30 seconds. (don't do it more than once.) Jump the G and R terminals to see if you get the blower to start. If so, u have a bad thermostat. If not, check the transformer inside the same cover in air handler for proper voltage. (24V. Make sure you also get 220 on the opposite side of the transformer) If the blower comes on, but the heat pump doesnt start, open the side cover of the heat pump, with the thermostat on cool, and the temp. setting as low as possible for at least 10 minutes see if the contactor is pulled in. If so, check the capacitor and see if it's blown out. Be super careful these systems operate with 220v and the amperes are enough to kill you if you make a simple mistake.
You have a voltage bleed somewhere or a short, whatever you want to call it. Do you have a control board on this unit where the relays are integrated into it or do you have the old type where the relay is separate? Anyway, you need to take a meter and take voltage readings to the motor when it's acting up and when it's running right. I have had the same problem with a Goodman unit before and it turned out to be the tstat! What I would do is remove the cover off the tstat and take a small jumper wire and touch the r terminal to the y terminal. If the motor starts right up, you know it's the tstat. If you have the same problem, then the only thing it can be is a low voltage short to the unit from the tstat, bad control board if you have one, or a bad relay. But if the unit is working fine in heat, it's probably not the relay. I hope this helps.
Most motors have a thermal cut out that is internal. If the motor overheats, it will shut down. If the unit is freezing up, that would indicate that there isn't enough airflow over the coils or the unit is low on refrigerant. I had a unit that did this same exact thing and after replacing the blower motor and a sequencer, in the end it was the t-stat. You are describing the same exact symptoms and every time I would go out, the unit would work fine. I would suggest replacing the t-stat and then watch the unit. But make sure that the coils are clean and you are not restricting airflow over the coils. Hopefully one of the techs actually looked at the coils to determine if they needed to be pulled and cleaned. Hopefully this answers your question.
Actually you might get a ohm meter the reads to at least 40 megaohms and check the coil on the solenoid valve as well as the coil on the contactor. That would determine which coil ic failing. They should read out above 40 megaohms.