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Broken hair straighteners

The wire at the end of the straightener is loose therefor when i switch them on they rarely heat up and the red light just flashes on and off. it is a sealed plug and wire at the end.. and they are GHD make! thanks lindsay

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  • Anonymous Jun 01, 2008

    dropped ghd and broke have supper glued but did not work

  • ilyjsfe Oct 06, 2008

    Mine are remington, All seems fine with them but the wire is very dodgy, I have to hold the straighteners at a angle to be able to heat them up.

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My hair straighteners are meant to heat up to 230' but i am lucky to get them to heat up at 160 and stay on ? please help

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

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Heater will not shut off it will run 24hrs. even when temp. is above heater setting


seethis procedure and fix it. God bless you
    • 1 Connect the test leads to your DMM. Insert the black lead in the black "common" socket and push the red lead in the red socket labeled "volts, ohms, milliamperes." Set the function switch on your DMM to the "ohms" function.
    • 2 Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the space heater's back cover and disconnect the power cord from the switch and heating element
    • 3 Check the power cord for a broken wire. Touch one test probe to first one blade, then the other blade on the plug and then touch the other probe to the other end of the power cord. If the wire is working, there should be an indication of 0.00 to 0.5 ohms between each blade on the plug and a different end of the power cord. If the meter indicates "O.L." on one or both sides of the cord, the wire is defective. Most often, the wire will be broken right at the molded plug or inside the plug. The easiest way to fix this problem is to replace the cord set.
    • 4 Check between the two sides of the power cord for a 0.00 to 0.5 ohms reading indicating a short between the two sides of the line cord. If the heater tripped a circuit breaker, there is a short circuit somewhere in the heater wiring. Shorts in a power cord usually occur inside the molded plug. The short could be inside the cord set, if it has been pinched or cut. Fix by replacing the cord set.
    • 5 Check the thermostatic switch by placing one test probe on each of the switch terminals. Turn the switch slowly through its complete range. The DMM should indicate a continuous 0.00 to 0.5 ohms throughout the switch's full range of movement. An "O.L." indication here indicates a faulty switch, and you need to replace it. The reason that a functional switch could read 0.5 ohms and not 0.00 ohms is that some DMMs read their internal fuse's resistance.
    • 6 Check the heating element for an open circuit or short circuit. A typical radiant heating element will have a resistance of roughly 15 to 30 ohms. A burned out heating element will read "O.L." and need to be replaced. A reading significantly lower than 15 ohms indicates a shorted or partially shorted heating element, and it needs to be replaced.
    • 7 Reconnect the wires that you disconnected earlier and plug the heater in. Check the blower motor voltage if the heating element gets hot but the fan does not work. This is the only test that you will have to make with the heater plugged in, so use caution here.
    • 8 Set the DMM for "AC volts" and touch the test probes to the motor leads. A reading of 115 volts here indicates a defective fan motor, and you need to replace it.

Sep 30, 2012 | Comfort Zone CZ1500WC Infra-Red...

1 Answer

I have a Lennox 80MGF3/4-100A-1 forced air gas heater and the pilot light isn't lighting automatically as it is supposed to. Can I light it manually?


NO, they are not like the old ones that sometimes you had to relight on a windy night.. there is not a gas pressure control lever and too many safety switches will keep things from happening. and the induced draft blower motor would be like starting a fire in a wind tunnel. even if lit. it would extinguish it's self at the end of the heat cycle and put you right back with no flame. i miss old tech!! so easy to fix. and keep it going. are the heating wires getting red hot! those hot wires are what ignite the fast flowing gas.

Dec 23, 2010 | Heaters

1 Answer

No lights on switch on--no heat--on LAKEWOOD mODEL 7000/A


Look for a thing called a Thermal Fuse, small, pencil sized cylindrical, silver, (usually) with stiff lead at each end. It should be in the Phase/Active line. Try replacing that.

Feb 12, 2010 | Lakewood Oil-Filled Electric Radiator...

1 Answer

Central heat not working right


You may just have a dirty air filter or your furnace may be flashing an error code that could help you. Look for a small viewing port that looks into the cabinet of the furnace. Look for a blinking light. Count the blinks and then find the wiring diagram pasted to one of the panels. On the diagram it will have a diagnostic chart where you can look up the error code. Read on for some basic info that may help you.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Feb 08, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

I'm replacing a non-hydronic electric baseboard heating unit with a Fahrenheat hydronic one. My old unit was 240v using 2 conductors plus bare ground wire. The fahrenheat (PLF series) unit's instructions...


Hello. The red and the black are the hot wires. Therefore, connect one of your conductors to the red and the other conductor to the black. Use wirenuts. The bare ground wire should be solidly attached to the new unit's green wire using a wire nut.
Regards, Joe
PS: please rate my answer. Thank you.

Jan 06, 2010 | Fahrenheat Electric Hydronic Baseboard...

2 Answers

New furnace, installed last October - has run approximately 3 months at the most. Have had to replace pressure switches, and again it is not working....will not ignite, but blower fan runs a pushes cold...


It's possible that the pressure switch is doing what it was designed to do, shut the burner off if there is a restriction in the vent system. Your problem may be intermittent, and is caused by wind blowing across your roof in a specific direction. Rarely, but on occasion I have seen this happen, the wind creates pressure on your vent pipe and prevents the pressure switch from closing. A directional cap (similar to  a wind rotating chimney cap) may be required. Good luck and let me know if this helps.

Jan 02, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

AIR or Heat wont come on/ goodman GMP075-3


If there is no blinking light, then the unit is not seeing a call for heat or cool. My guess is a lose or broken wire in the thermostat circuit. Try and putting a jumper across the red and white heat terminals inside the furnace and manually closing the door switch. If you get heat, it's telling you there is a wiring issue. If you get nothing, it's a bad circuit board.

Jun 08, 2008 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Conair hair straightener


It could be a couple things:

1. Bad heating element
2. Bad thermal fuse

Is it still under warranty? Perhaps the warranty is listed in the instruction book if you still have it.

- Jim

Jan 30, 2008 | Heaters

2 Answers

Lasko 5132 Ceramic


let me guess it just makes that beep,and doesnt even turn on.get a steak knife or flat head screw driver and scrape all the dust and hair of the steel screen on the back every two months or so.it should work after that.i had the same problem.

Oct 20, 2007 | Lasko 5132 Ceramic Compact Heater

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