Question about Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Will not freeze.

I checked all coils, compressor,evaporator coil,all coils are clean.fan runs,cycles on and off,there is a small amount of ice at the temperature sensor, im thinking the sensor is bad, everything else checks out ok..?

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YOU HAVE A LEAK,FEEL THE EVAPORATOR ON THE OTHER SIDE OF SENSER YOU SHOULD HAVE COLD FROST UP AND DOWN BOTH SIDE IF NOT YOU ARE LOW ON FREON,LOOK AT THE COMPRESSOR AND SEE IF IT HAS A ACCESS VALVE,THANKS MIKE

Posted on May 29, 2008

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Coils freeze up


The first thing to do is see if the indoor (evaporator-air handler) fan and compressor are both running at the same time, then turn the unit off and let all the ice melt.
If the compressor is running and the evaporator fan isn't, you've already found the main cause of your air conditioning freezing problem.
The indoor coil will freeze up if the compressor runs without the evaporator fan running.
Check to see if ice has built up enough to stop the fan.
If it has, (and it's possible with wall mounted ductless mini split units and some window units), the fan may run normally once the ice melts, and the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem could be something else.
If you are the equipment owner trying to take care of this air conditioning freezing problem yourself, and you get to the point that you have to call in a technician, it could save him time, (which saves you money) if you have already verified whether the evaporator fan was or wasn't running with the compressor, and if ice had built up enough to stop the fan.
Once the ice has melted, check the fan or blower blades, and see if they're clean and not obstructed by something like a plastic bag, other debris, or mould growth.
Remove any obstructions, and if necessary, remove the blower and clean it.
Before tearing into the rest of the unit, check the thermostat and make sure it's working right.
Do the cool contacts open when the t-stat is turned up to a higher temp than the room temp?
If not, the thermostat has failed, and never turns the unit off, which can definitely cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
Do the fan contacts open and close when the thermostat setting is turned higher and lower than the room temperature?
If the fan contacts never close but the cool contacts do, the thermostat has failed and caused your air conditioning freezing problem.
If the fan contacts close, but the fan doesn't run, check the fan relay in the air handler.
If the fan relay is not getting control voltage, the circuit is open between the thermostat and the fan relay.
Look for a loose connection, wrong connection, dis-connection, or broken wire.
If it gets control voltage but doesn't energize, it has failed, and must be replaced.
If it energizes but the fan doesn't run, check for line voltage on the load side of the relay.
If there is line voltage on the load side of the relay and the fan doesn't run, you'll have to troubleshoot the load side circuit and the fan motor as detailed further on.
If the thermostat checks out ok, set the thermostat to "fan on" and make sure the blower runs in the correct direction and at the proper RPM, that it is installed in the housing correctly, and is the right size.
If the blower is installed backwards or is running in reverse, the coil can freeze up. (Although I have seen several units that didn't freeze up with reversed blowers.)
You will need to turn the blower around, reverse the rotation of the motor if it is a reversible rotation motor, or install a motor with the correct rotation.
A blower that runs too slow can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
You'll need to install a motor that runs at the correct speed.
A blower that is too small, or that is installed in the housing incorrectly, can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
You will need to install the correct size blower, and be sure it is installed correctly in the housing.
This means centered, with volutes installed, and the curve of the vanes matching the outlet of the housing.
If the blower motor is the wrong size, if the bearings are failing, or if it has an open start winding or a failed run capacitor, it could be overheating and stopping intermittently.
A motor that is overheating and stopping intermittently can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
To check out the evaporator fan motor:
Check the resistance readings of the motor windings.
If you get a readable resistance between all three windings, the motor windings should be ok.
Turn the shaft. If it turns free and easy, the bearings should be ok.
If the shaft is hard to turn, lube the bearings with 20 SAE electric motor oil if there are lube ports.
If that frees the shaft, it should run ok for a while, but the bearings or bushings may be deteriorated to the point that they'll sieze again soon.
If the shaft doesn't free up, replace the motor.
If the shaft turns freely, check the capacitor.
The best way to check the capacitor is to replace it with a new one of the correct rating.
If the motor runs, close the air handler panels, and take an amp draw on the motor.
If it's normal it should run OK, and if the motor was the problem, your air conditioning freezing problem should stop.
Ok, if you've verified that the controls and fan are good, take a break for a diet soda, and then we'll see if the evaporator coil or ducting are the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem.
Take a look at the evaporator coil.
Is it clean? Can you see your flashlight shining through from the other side?
If the coil's dirty, you'll have to do some air conditioning coil cleaning.
If your air conditioner is a window type, our page about how to clean window air conditioners has some pointers you might find useful.
A dirty evaporator coil is a common cause of air conditioning freezing,
And it's one of the problems that can be prevented with regularly scheduled air conditioning maintenance.
If the coil is clean, check the ducting to make sure nothing is blocking air flow.
Blocked ducting will stop air flow through the evaporator coil, and this will cause the coil to freeze up.
If your coil is clean and the ducting is clear, let's run the unit and check the operating pressures and temperatures.
If your discharge and suction pressures are low, with a low compressor amp draw, low subcooling, high superheat, and low temperature splits accross your evaporator and condenser coils, you probably have a leak.
Shut the unit down, find the leak and repair it.
Once the leak is found and/or repaired and you're ready to run the unit, our Charging Air Conditioning Systems page offers some tips that you might find helpful.
If you are totally unable to locate the leak with a bubble solution or electronic detector, you'll have to charge in refrigerant to correct pressures, temperatures, and superheat and subcooling values, and it would be a good idea to add some air conditioning leak detector dye so the leak can be found later on.
You have to use some common sense about leaks.
If the leak is so small that you can't find oil or any other sign; unless the customer agrees to pay you for all the time you spend, it's more cost effective to charge in the small amount of refrigerant it will take to get the unit running correctly, finish the service call, and be on your way.
I can't imagine that there's a service technician out there who hasn't run into the same problem many times.
Use some common sense, be up front with your customer, and if you've done your best not only to find the leak, but to get the unit running right and save your customer unnecessary expense, consider it a job well done.
If your suction pressure is low enough to cause the evaporator to freeze up, but you have high subooling and high superheat, either your metering device is restricted or the wrong size, your drier is restricted, or your liquid line is restricted.
Evaluate all of the system's operating characteristics to isolate the restriction.

Copied from the following web site:
http://www.air-conditioning-and-refrigeration-guide.com/air-conditioning-freezing.html

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2 Answers

Kenmore refrigerator model 59562998 Compressor is running but no air is blowing into the refrigerator or freezer


the evaporator fan has stopped. it is usually in the back of the freezing compartment behind all the plastic. when the fan stops no air can circulate over the cooling coils so even though the compressor is running no cold can move iside the freezer or fridge. be extra careful when you take the small screws out as the screw heads can be full of build up that makes it hard to get a good hold of them. take your time and clean off all the screw heads so they don't strip out. The evaporator fan is not to expensive wait to buy on until you get the old one out.

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1 Answer

The freezer will not freeze or keep its


Check to condenser coil and make sure it is clean and the fan near it is running when the compressor is on. Check for ice build up in the freezer. If the evaporator coil is iced up the box will run warm. It may be a defrost problem, a dirty condenser, or a refrigerant issue.

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2 Answers

GE Eterna ESS25LGNA freezer side not working


Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.

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1 Answer

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It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

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1 Answer

Freezer not freezing


Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm

Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

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1 Answer

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Check the door gasket seal.
Open the door for a few seconds and then close.
Immediately open the door again, and, if sealing properly, it should take more pulling force to open the door.

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