Question about Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer
If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. You have to remove the entire front panel on some models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
Dryer turned off keep heating smelled burning looked in dryer is black against rear wall had to unplug to stop heat
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
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If you feel confident here are the main things to do on
checking for no heat Electric Heating Dryer:
1 Check for 220 Volt at the heater entrance to the heater box (accessible from picking up the top on most dryer models).
If you have 220v there the heater element is out.
2 If you don't have 220v on the terminals of the heater the problem is in the controls.
The fuse link, the timer contacts, the centrifugal switch on the motor, and the heater safety thermostat and operating thermostat(s), are all suspect and have to be eliminated 1 by 1.
Hope this helps.
With any luck all you need is a new element. Clean the duct out while replacing the heater if so because the main thing that causes heater element burn out is low air flow. A kinked Dryer vent hose, lint, and plugged up fan circulator on the motor, or if yours has little holes in the inside cabinet where the air is taken to be heated and recirculated, these can get clogged with lint also and cause a problem are the 4 main causes of low air flow..
Hope this helps and please rate me accordingly Thank you and good luck.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
Thanks for your ongoing support,but i resolved the problem by replacing the cut uot which is sold as a set.the store i went to first didnt tell me so i bought the thermostat seperate at first and then had to go back to store to find out that didnt have the set so i had to go to another store bought the set replaced both components the dryer is working fine now so now all i have to worry about is the electric bill thanks again
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
No heat on hoover maxi 6 tv20 tumble dryer and have two yellow wires that are no connected to anything
Posted on Apr 16, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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