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This from manual for 2ZR-FE (09-12) == not sure what engine you are referencing.
U s ing a feeler gauge, meas ure the end gap.
Standard E nd G ap:
I T E M SP E C I FI E D C O N D I T I O N
N o. 1 Ring 0 .2 4 to 0 .3 1 mm (0 .0 0 9 4 5 to 0 .0 1 2 2 in.)
N o. 2 Ring 0 .3 3 to 0 .4 3 mm (0 .0 1 3 0 to 0 .0 1 6 9 in.)
O il Ring 0 .1 0 to 0 .3 0 mm (0 .0 0 3 9 4 to 0 .0 1 1 8 in.)
M aximum E nd G ap:
I T E M SP E C I FI E D C O N D I T I O N
N o. 1 Ring 0 .3 1 mm (0 .0 1 2 2 in.)
N o. 2 Ring 0 .4 3 mm (0 .0 1 6 9 in.)
O il Ring 0 .3 0 mm (0 .0 1 1 8 in.)
I f the end gap is greater than the maximum, replac e the
pis ton ring. I f the end gap is greater than the maximum
with a new pis ton ring, replace the cylinder block.
did you hone the bores before fitting new rings ( old glazed bores will not allow new rings to seal properly)
did you space the ring gaps around the piston and not have them all line up ( if the ring gaps were not spaced around the piston , the oil will pass straight up the gap and be burnt in the combustion chamber --alternately the flame of combustion will get to the sump down the gap)
did you take care as to which way up you put the rings on the pistons ( there is a top etched on each ring and if this was not adhered to then the ring edge acts as a scraper and pumps the oil into the combustion chamber . also the compression pressure cannot get behind the ring to force it onto the bore wall
did you fit new bearings to the big ends ( old bearings will allow more oil onto the bore walls and this makes controlling the oil by the oil ring difficult)
did you fit the valve stem seals correctly( if they haven't been fitted correctly then the vacuum from the idling will suck oil past the valve stems
If you missed one or more in the rebuild then that is why you are burning oil
A general rule of thumb for ring gap is .003 " per 1" of bore. Example 4" bore minimum gap at bottom of cylinder for the ring is .012". IF fitting new rings then push the ring to the bottom of the bore ( smallest dia.) and measure the gap . nothing under .010". Max ring gap at this point should not exceed m.025" and if the gap exceeds this then the sides of the rings will have sharp edges from wearing on the piston lands.. The distance travelled depends on the service interval and the air cleaner being used as a dusted motor will need new rings within 15.000miles. and a well serviced motor can exceed 150.000miles before the rings need replacing
howdy.if your bike is a two stroke the ring has a pin in the piston groove to stop the ring turning.on four strokes the ring gap should be off set to each other and generally placed between 20-25 past and 25-20 to [like a clock] but no where near the side of piston at little end pin.also use a little oil in grooves to lubricate while fitting rings.some rings have angled edges so check wether they go top or bottom directions in manual or packaging with new ring sets.most rings will be marked to guide you.have fun and good luck.cheers
The end gap is derived from the bore size. For the 2.91" (74mm) Geo 3 cyl bore, the top ring end gap is .004" divided by bore, so that is 2.91" / .004 = .012". The second ring and oil ring should be bore divided by .005", so that is 2.91" / .005 = .015". Don't file the springy part of the oil ring, as it is designed to compress and fit snuggly; just file the top and bottom ring that sandwich the springy part.
both 2 and 4 stroke motor pistons will have and arrow on the piston, this points to the exhaust port,2 strokes have locating pins for the rings and the end of the rings go to these pins,as you will not be able to get back into the barrel if not fitted like this. 4 stroke rings are posistioned at 120 degree intervals to each other so the end gaps dont line up and there will be numbers stamped on the top and scraper rings which you face up.
when you put in your new rings make sure you check the ring end gap if the gap is not right it will not lube the rings properly thus ending up with broken rings
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