Compressor runs for a sec and cuts off for about couple of minites and runs again
When changing the outlet to a 110 prog outlet we bought the wrong outlet ran air for a year by turning the plug cord upside down this is a heater/ac unit by carrier #xhc101d we have replaced outlet but can you tell me if this would make the compressor messup and cut on and off repeatedly. and what do i need to do about this it feels like the fan is just running.
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You have a problem in the circuit with resistance. There is a connection, possibly a junction box or even an outlet in series with the circuit that has a loose "bad" connection. Possibly could be the connection at the panel breaker.
What was the voltage that you measured? Are the units 220 volt or 120 volt. Units that size are usually fed by 220 volts. What is the current rateing of the circuit breakers? Are they a double breaker with a handeling capacity of 20 amps or are they 15 amps.
You didn't mention if they ever worked? Are you feeding 120 volts or 220 volts to the two units?
If you have or know someone how has a multi meter just test that you have 220 volts at the outlet. Thats about the only way to tell. The fan will run if you only have 120v at the outlet, just not the compressor. so it will not cool. If you only 120v at the outlet it could be just a fuse or breaker problem. If it's a new outlet then it could be wiring wrong also.
Hope this help
Compressor tipping is typically due to overheating. A single bimetal disc thermostat (e.g. Klixon brand device) in located within the motor windings within hermetically sealed compressors which will cut off motor current after the local windings have sufficiently overheated.
Unfortunately, by the time this limiter has activated, the compressor motor and pump has typically already suffered mild to major damage.
Compressor overheating is typically a result of low freon. The freon, besides cooling the compressor, also carries the lubricant, so low freon results in a hot compressor with poor lubrication, with some degree of permanent damage by the time the internal limiter has activated.
There are a few other possibilities, depending on system design, but some version of the above scenario is typical.
When the compressor runs hot, this also initiates chemical changes in the freon and oil resulting in acids with further attack both the compressor pump, motor windings and motor bearings, a viscous circle.
Compressor overheating can also be a result of contaminants circulating within the freon or evolving mechanical failure problems within the compressor pump or motor.
Better systems (very few high end residential central AC systems) include OEM or field installed high freon pressure and low freon pressure cut out switches connected to circuits which stop the compressor and keep it off when pressure are well beyond desired.
These are far more effective in protecting the compressor and preventing permanent damage.
Additional protection options are a compressor discharge temperature limit switch (shuts off the compressor if the outlet freon goes well above desirable outlet temps), and a flow switch which sense adequate condenser fan air flow and only allows the compressor to run when adequate air flow is present (a second or so after the condenser fan has started). (Since condenser air flow is what removes all the system and interior heat, the compressor should not run unless airflow is appropriate.)
While all the above 4 safety device strategies are relatively inexpensive, they are not present in the vast majority of residential AC systems sold in the US.
your compressor is locked up. i would try replacing the round start capacitor. you need to check what the exact rating for yours is but I believe one of these two will work for ya. In the meantime do not continue to try to run it, it will kill the compressor. seth
Unit#2 -Sounds like the contacts on the master switch are welded closed or the switch is broken, Replacing the switch should fix this unit. #1 is a little more difficult to diagnose. The compressor is being taken off line by a circuit that protects the compressor from damage either; 1- liquid refrigerant getting back to the compressor which can be caused by something as simple as a clogged return air filter or evaporator coil on a heat pump or 2- overload situation caused by a bad condenser motor or a clogged condenser coil. The first thing you need to do is clean both coils and replace the filter,. Then check to be sure your getting good airflow across both coils. I think it's most likely an airflow issue I hope this resolves the problem GL!
-If both compressor and fan motor starts and stop, thermostat is the defect. - If only the compressor check for your outlet no sign of discoloration, check the voltage if normal, check the defective overload protector of the compressor it its external, or compressor itself is defective