Unit indicates charging battery while in cradle for aobut 3 to 5 seconds. Than indicates fully charged batery. Take the unit off the cradel and it goes dead.
Per all of the other solutions I've seen, I've downloaded all the updates, tried all of the resets.
Ordered a new battery for the unit. however, can't seem to find an easy way to take the unit apart to install the new battery.
Anyone know the easiest way to replace the battery at home?(No it is not the HRM)
Should I send it in to Garmin for them to rebuild for the $100 cost?
A bit after your post but here's my experience…. Opening it up: The plastic base has a rubber facing on the outside (surrounding the side buttons), but as far as I can tell it is a plastic-plastic interface that glued to unite the top-bottom with cement. As has been said elsewhere, there are no catches to worry about… Run a thin but blunt screwdriver or knife around between the “rubber” surround on the base and the top (black) plastic, applying slight lever pressure as you go (be careful and you won’t dent the plastic). Turn the unit over so the top face is down and the contacts away from you. Apply a gentle pull on the strap nearest you while levering with your fingers at the bend in the base…this should (or did with mine) allow the base to separate from the top. Now it turned out there had clearl;y been water ingress in my unit, between top and bottom above the contacts, one in particular at the end had corroded significantly…and on using contact cleaner carefully there was no gold left on the worst one and the mating contact on the circuit board simply fell away….. Bugger!!.. that’s basicly screwed any plans for my self-repair as can’t solder between the 2 with nothing to bite one….
However, it's not all about me!!!..
If your issue is the battery itself and you want to replace, here’s what I found… Battery is marked as follows: “Garmin part 361-00026-00 3.7V Li-ion 750mAh” But (of course!) Garmin has not designed this for self-service (or by the looks of things for ease of service by anyone, given amount of glue used!), so that part # is not for sale… Anyway, the actual dimensions of the are approx H 33.5mm x W35.0mm xD 5.5mm ..so the Ipod 4G battery, although rated the same, would actually be too big to fit (being 46*32*4.5mm) I haven’t done an extensive check (not needing a new battery now!) but you may be able to source something very similar (possibly slightly higher capacity?) from something that suits (Canon?) cameras or a PDA device? To change you have to lever out the old battery (its fairly securely glued to the base) then sever the leads from the existing battery and reconnect to your new one…would need a steady hand and preferably aWill not power up out of cradle - 4927918.jpg glass! Putting it back together….It fits really snugly…Just clean off old glue carefully by scraping, replace with a glue that suits plastic-plastic and won’t destroy rubber and all should be sweet…. Good luck! Paul
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Cradle and contacts are fine. Cradle circuit is nothing but a reed relay and few wires, relay closes on proximity to robot's body, therefore no voltage on contacts before robot is close to cradle. There is a thermistor inside of battery, and mine was bad. I removed it and now I am charging the battery from my bench power supply at about 220 ma current, overnight, and it works. Probably the solution is to get a new replacement battery, but the one with the thermistor inside (OEM), easily recognized by the third wire, and all should be fine, assuming that nothing else is wrong with charging circuit or power adapter (12v/1A) Hope this will give you some ideas of where to poke. Once successful, please post your solution.
Here is some general information that you probably already have. The opener should keep that battery charged. I would recommend getting a service technician out. Just when you really need that battery backup it will be out.
On top of your unit is a battery pack with three colored led
lights. You can tell what is going on by looking at these. This
information is in your manual or here it is.
GREEN LED: All systems are normal. A solid LED light indicates
the batteries are fully charged. A flashing LED indicates the
batteries are being charged. NOTE: Batteries do not have to be fully
charged to operate the motor unit. YELLOW LED: The motor unit has
lost power and is operating off of the BBU. A solid LED with beep,
sounding approximately every 2 seconds, indicates the motor unit is
activating the door and is operating off of the BBU. A flashing LED
with beep, sounding every 30 seconds, indicates batteries are low.
Once the power is restored the BBU will recharge. This is indicated
by a flashing GREEN LED. RED LED: An error has been detected and the
BBU will automatically shut off. The BBU will attempt to restart by
reconnecting to the batteries. If the error is still present it will
shut itself off again. This process will repeat every 5 minutes or
until the error has been resolved. This is used to prevent further
draining of the batteries. If a red LED remains on when the power is
restored, and is accompanied by a beep sounding every 30 seconds,
please call for service.
I have the MDR-RF970R but I bet the battery is the same. If you have had the headphone for seceral years then I bet you are right, the battery is going. You might try using them till the battery dies and then recharge. This is called deep cycle and may time it will extend the life of rechargables.
If the headphones are new, then just check and make sure that they going all the way into the charge slot.
I will say it is not common for me to see the light off, but I use the headphones all the time.
BATTERY INSTALLATION AND INFORMATION Your wireless headphone unit requires two rechargeable AAA batteries. Rechargeable batteries are uncharged when you purchase them. Before you can use the wireless headphones, the batteries must be charged for 16 hours. Follow these steps to install and charge the batteries. Installing the Rechargeable Batteries Take care to follow these steps to correctly install the batteries. 1. On the right headphone, locate the battery compartment (1). Use the finger depression on the compartment to turn the battery compartment cover counterclockwise to remove the cover. 2. Insert two AAA rechargeable batteries, carefully following the markings inside to ensure the batteries are inserted properly, with the + and - ends in the correct positions. 3. Replace the battery compartment cover. Charging the Rechargeable Batteries To recharge the headset unit, follow the directions below. Note: The cradle/transmitter on the WHP141 is not a recharging cradle, although you may place the headset in the cradle during recharging. Follow these steps to recharge the NiMH rechargeable batteries. 1. Make sure the ON/OFF switch (2), located on the right headphone, is in the OFF position. 2. Connect the AC/DC main power adapter to the DC IN power supply socket (11), located on the back of the cradle/transmitter. 3. Plug the adapter into an electrical outlet. 4. Connect the charging cable (10), located on the back of the cradle/transmitter to the recharging input (3), located on the right headphone. The headphones can either be placed in the cradle/transmitter or placed next to the unit. If the headphones are connected correctly, the charging LED indicator light on the cradle/transmitter (8) illuminate.
batteries have a charge memory in the, when you purchase a new battery the best thing to do is to fully drain the battery before charging it up, this will tell the battery that it needs full charge, if you charge the battery before this it will only charge the battery to a certain percentage. what you need to do now is find a way to fully discharge the batteries
The sidekick 3 has an issue with thte charging port. If you have a friend with a sidekick 3 or sidekick ID, try one of their batteries. If your unit powers on, the charging port has gone bad.
the repair for a charginf port runs about 80-100 dollars. A cheaper work around is to get a charging cradle that has a spare battery charger slot. They run about 30 dollars on ebay and it will allow you to charge the bettery seperate from the phone.
I'm a pc repair technician, and my ipaq hx4700 has gone exactly the same way.
I've been looking round for some kind of technical manual to see if there is any history of internal components going down through heavy use or even manual abuse.
Mine stopped after I knocked it whilst working on something.
Normally if I see similar symptoms on a pc I'd be looking at internal component failure, more often than not the motherboard itself. I worked on that theory and have looked at prices for an ipaq motherboard.
In all honesty the costs for the part and replacement are more than buying a new pda.
Sorry for the bad news, but thats the only option I've found
all the best